defender rear crossmember.

anybody know how much it will cost me to replace a rear crossmember on a 98
110 defender.

In message <[email protected]>, DAVID
JOHNSTON <[email protected]> writes
>anybody know how much it will cost me to replace a rear crossmember on a 98
>110 defender.
>
A small local garage charged me approx £220 to supply and replace the
rear crossmember of my 1985 110 about 2 years ago.
As I waited while he finished the job, he said never again at that
price!

All I had to do was fit the 2 handles, upgrade the bent bit of tin he
fitted the towing electrics on, and give it a coat of paint.
--
Bill

Bill wrote:
> In message <[email protected]>, DAVID
> JOHNSTON <[email protected]> writes
> >anybody know how much it will cost me to replace a rear crossmember on a98
> >110 defender.
> >
> A small local garage charged me approx £220 to supply and replace the
> rear crossmember of my 1985 110 about 2 years ago.
> As I waited while he finished the job, he said never again at that
> price!
>
> All I had to do was fit the 2 handles, upgrade the bent bit of tin he
> fitted the towing electrics on, and give it a coat of paint.
> --
> Bill

I paid a welder £140 cash to do mine, I supplied the crossmember. All
in at an independant LR place I reckon it would be about £500. The
fuel tank needs to be removed and wiring loom shifted but welding the
new one on is easier on a 110 as the chassis rail drops clear of the
body so there is plenty of room to weld accross the top. I buying the
xmember yourself, make sure it has chassis extensions.

Sean
73FL74 101GS
1984 1102.5NA
Medway Military Vehicle Group
www.mmvg.net

Just had mine done on an '86 110. New crossmember with extensions, two
patches either side of rear chassis rail, new rear outrigger
farbricated and fitted and hole in nearside front outrigger patched,
all waxoyled and painted, tow bar and electrics refitted - all for
£400 + VAT. Chuffed to bits with the work, while he was there he even
refitted my mudflaps which had broken away from the body. Took over a
week though, guy said that every bolt he tried to remove sheared off,
so he had to replace all them as well! If any one needs a good welder
in the Stroud/Gloucestershire area, he's the man...


[email protected] wrote:
> Bill wrote:
> > In message <[email protected]>, DAVID
> > JOHNSTON <[email protected]> writes
> > >anybody know how much it will cost me to replace a rear crossmember ona 98
> > >110 defender.
> > >
> > A small local garage charged me approx £220 to supply and replace the
> > rear crossmember of my 1985 110 about 2 years ago.
> > As I waited while he finished the job, he said never again at that
> > price!
> >
> > All I had to do was fit the 2 handles, upgrade the bent bit of tin he
> > fitted the towing electrics on, and give it a coat of paint.
> > --
> > Bill
>
> I paid a welder £140 cash to do mine, I supplied the crossmember. All
> in at an independant LR place I reckon it would be about £500. The
> fuel tank needs to be removed and wiring loom shifted but welding the
> new one on is easier on a 110 as the chassis rail drops clear of the
> body so there is plenty of room to weld accross the top. I buying the
> xmember yourself, make sure it has chassis extensions.
>
> Sean
> 73FL74 101GS
> 1984 1102.5NA
> Medway Military Vehicle Group
> www.mmvg.net

anybody know how much it will cost me to replace a rear crossmember on a 98
110 defender.

Blimey that's short lived. Has it rusted badly or been damaged? Main
agents about £500, yourself about £100 for the member and a lot more for
the blood, sweat and tears. Do the out riggers need doing as well?
Hardest part is lifting the body to access for welding, which
incidentally cannot be done as efficiently as at manufacture.
After you replace them, apply as much waxoil as you can in every
orifice, and apply with several coats

--
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During stardate Mon, 17 Oct 2005 08:56:43 +0100, Dave Piggin
<[email protected]> uttered the imortal words:


>Hardest part is lifting the body to access for welding, which
>incidentally cannot be done as efficiently as at manufacture.

Is this feasible on a 90 or 110?

http://makeashorterlink.com/?V5D03300C

Should save alot of work.


Lee D
--
"I'm all in favor of keeping dangerous weapons out of the hands of fools. Let's start with typewriters."
- Frank Lloyd Wright (1868-1959)

www.lrproject.com
'76 101 Camper
'64 88" IIa V8 Auto
'97 Disco ES Auto LPG'd
'01 Laguna

In message <[email protected]>
Lee_D <[email protected]> wrote:

> During stardate Mon, 17 Oct 2005 08:56:43 +0100, Dave Piggin
> <[email protected]> uttered the imortal words:
>
>
> >Hardest part is lifting the body to access for welding, which
> >incidentally cannot be done as efficiently as at manufacture.
>
> Is this feasible on a 90 or 110?
>
> http://makeashorterlink.com/?V5D03300C
>
> Should save alot of work.
>
>
> Lee D

That's step one.......... The problem with fitting a crossmember
without extensions to a 90/110 is access to ends of the chassis
rails and top of the member for welding. The joint between the chassis
rail and crossmember on a Defender is quite deeply recessed and access
is pretty restricted. Doing a 90 with extensions is dead easy, as the
joint for the extensions is at the bottom of the curve between the axle
and rear, so though access to the top of the rail is a bit restricted
there is nothing much in the way.
On 110's it goes right up to the first crossmember (about
2tf 6in, perhaps a bit more), but you have to remove the tank, rollbar
(if fitted) and tow hitch (if fitted). If its a Station Wagon the rear
seats need to be folded up out of the way too. And then you have to
make sure the tank and roll bar all line up before welding up. Its a
lot of work, around a full day for someone who has done it before,
probably one and a half to two days for the first attempt.

Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
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Lee_D <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> During stardate Mon, 17 Oct 2005 08:56:43 +0100, Dave Piggin
> <[email protected]> uttered the imortal words:
>
>
>>Hardest part is lifting the body to access for welding, which
>>incidentally cannot be done as efficiently as at manufacture.
>
> Is this feasible on a 90 or 110?
>
> http://makeashorterlink.com/?V5D03300C
>
> Should save alot of work.
>
>
> Lee D
> --
> "I'm all in favor of keeping dangerous weapons out of the hands of
> fools. Let's start with typewriters." - Frank Lloyd Wright (1868-1959)
>
> www.lrproject.com
> '76 101 Camper
> '64 88" IIa V8 Auto
> '97 Disco ES Auto LPG'd
> '01 Laguna

I had to replace the rear tub anyway when I replaced the rear cross member
on my D90 which made it a lot easier.

To start, I made up a rough box section steel template and spot welded that
in place to make sure I got all the holes to line up correctly. That seemed
to help.

Derry