Defender Panhard Rod
- Thread starter Collman
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The 'kink' is there so it doesn't hit the diff, the other difference is that the newer versions (straight) have M16 bolts and the older M14.
There is an ID stamp on the axle, just inboard of the LH radius arm mounting.
Sometimes LR fitted what was available at the time.... it would heve been new when fitted
https://www.lrworkshop.com/axles-differentials/axlecodes
There is an ID stamp on the axle, just inboard of the LH radius arm mounting.
Sometimes LR fitted what was available at the time.... it would heve been new when fitted
https://www.lrworkshop.com/axles-differentials/axlecodes
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That is really helpful, thank you. I take it I should fit the same shape again?The 'kink' is there so it doesn't hit the diff, the othjer difference is that the newer versions (straight) have M16 bots and the older M14.
There is an ID stamp on the axle, just inboard of the LH radius arm mounting.
Sometimes LR fitted what was available at the time.... it would heve been new when fitted
https://www.lrworkshop.com/axles-differentials/axlecodes
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Yes .... or you will clonk the diff case
Hicap phill
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that was going to be my suggestion. I would not dream of replacing the whole unit and would just fit new bushes. They are a heavy solid piece of metal so the rust will only be surface and if you are fussy about appearance a quick rub down and coat of paint will make it look like the new one but both will go back to looking a little rusty a couple of miles down the road.
How much is a full replacement? It might have ended up in a similar position to the drop arm ball joint where the price of the whole drop arm has dropped so much unless you really know what you are doing there is little point rebuilding.
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Get a wire brush on a drill and clean it up then paint it if you want!
I'd be concerned of the quality of a replacement part. Not that there's much to go wrong but are the dimensions exactly right?
I'd be concerned of the quality of a replacement part. Not that there's much to go wrong but are the dimensions exactly right?
Dr Strangeglove
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Retroanaconda
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The rod design and bolts were changed in 2002. Before that the rod was the same for LHD and RHD, with a bend in it and was solid. After 2002 the RHD rod is straight and only the LHD is bent. It is only LHD models that actually need the bend to clear the diff.
It your vehicle is supposed to have the later rod then I would go with that, there will be 16mm holes in the chassis and axle brackets and using 14mm bolts is not a good idea here. It will get you home in a pinch but not advisable as a permanent solution.
It your vehicle is supposed to have the later rod then I would go with that, there will be 16mm holes in the chassis and axle brackets and using 14mm bolts is not a good idea here. It will get you home in a pinch but not advisable as a permanent solution.
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