D2 ECU problems?

Hi all,
I’m new on here but not new to Land Rovers having had 2x D1, a D3 and a defender over the years. I’m now dipping my toe back in the Land Rover waters as I have a company car for work, so have a bit more time on my hands to tinker with a second car. I’ve just bought a 2004 D2 Es auto with 118k on the clock, FSH from new, it’s in Bonnatti Grey with black leather, a combination I had to wait a while to find! I did have to drive a 350 mile round trip to get it!
It’s not perfect by any means, I’ve had the head lining and both sunroofs out already, along with a leaking windscreen and the three amigos illuminated! I’ve also discovered the ECU has got the oil in the wiring problem. I’m aware this can be cured with a new injector loom, but today in the meantime I took the ECU out to clean it as best I could. I was very careful taking the top off and didn’t touch the circuit boards just in case. Basically I mopped up all the oil I could see, along with cleaning out pins in the connector with tissue only, I didn’t use any cleaner other than electrical contact cleaner in the plug in the car.
After a couple of hours I put it all back together, put it back in the car and re connected the battery. It started fine but has thrown the gearbox into limp mode with the M and S in green flashing on the dash and the D on the selector flashing too. Anyone got any ideas? Seems unlikely to be a coincidence? Does the D2 auto have a gearbox ECU? Or is this a case of resetting something that I haven’t done?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Many thanks
Jeff
(The car is called Donald, not me!)

Hello and welcome

Hi Welcome. I suggest that you repeat your question the Discovery forum where lots of people will tell you get a diagnostic check as there are an awful lot of possible reasons for the M&S lights. The only shortcut is if the MIL did not come on as well, as that is caused by a battery voltage of less than 9V with the engine running. Di you disconnect the battery when you took out the ECU? If so are you sure you tightened the terminals correctly?

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I think he is long gone mate. Hopefully he put the battery leads on properly and didn't need anything else.

Si Click said:

I think he is long gone mate. Hopefully he put the battery leads on properly and didn't need anything else.

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Apologies, I thought I had replied to your first post, but may have written it in the wrong place, I’m not brilliant with forums! To answer though, yes I disconnected the battery whilst cleaning the ECU and tightened the terminals, although the negative terminal never feels particularly tight. The M&S light still show up occasionally, but if I run the gear selector back and forth with the ignition off, this seems to cure it temporarily so I’m thinking it might be the xyz switch?
Thanks again for your help, and apologies for the delayed response.
Jeff

UKD2Donald said:

Apologies, I thought I had replied to your first post, but may have written it in the wrong place, I’m not brilliant with forums! To answer though, yes I disconnected the battery whilst cleaning the ECU and tightened the terminals, although the negative terminal never feels particularly tight. The M&S light still show up occasionally, but if I run the gear selector back and forth with the ignition off, this seems to cure it temporarily so I’m thinking it might be the xyz switch?
Thanks again for your help, and apologies for the delayed response.
Jeff

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No worries. Welcome back. D2 negative terminals are badly designed IMHO. ON mine I have a slice of lead wedged between the terminal and the connector to ensure a decent grip. If they are loose then going over a bump could give a very brief disconnection; not enough to stop the engine, but enough to register a spike of less than 9 volts and to throw up the M&S lights. The giveaway is the MIL (Check Engine Light). If this does not come on as well then it is a battery issue. If the MIL is on then it is one of the many other possible causes. The good news is that the EAT module will throw up a code to tell you which fault it is, and you will need to get a diagnostic reader to read the code. If you do a search on RAVE and download the iso, in the Workshop Manual under Automatic Transmission you will find a list of all the possible faults and the associated codes.

Si Click said:

No worries. Welcome back. D2 negative terminals are badly designed IMHO. ON mine I have a slice of lead wedged between the terminal and the connector to ensure a decent grip. If they are loose then going over a bump could give a very brief disconnection; not enough to stop the engine, but enough to register a spike of less than 9 volts and to throw up the M&S lights. The giveaway is the MIL (Check Engine Light). If this does not come on as well then it is a battery issue. If the MIL is on then it is one of the many other possible causes. The good news is that the EAT module will throw up a code to tell you which fault it is, and you will need to get a diagnostic reader to read the code. If you do a search on RAVE and download the iso, in the Workshop Manual under Automatic Transmission you will find a list of all the possible faults and the associated codes.

Click to expand...

Hi,
Yes totally agree on the design of the negative terminal, will try some lead too! Thanks for the other info too, much appreciated.
Jeff

UKD2Donald said:

Hi,
Yes totally agree on the design of the negative terminal, will try some lead too! Thanks for the other info too, much appreciated.
Jeff

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You're welcome. Let us know how you get on.