Common wiper fault?

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retneprac

retneprac

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Just stripped out the dash and changed the wiper gear wheels as both had ground to a halt.
reassembled, greased up etc, now back inplace.

Ran the motor but it now just stops when switched off without returning to the park position in either of the 2 speeds, but does on the intermittent setting.

What have I done wrong in reassembling?
 
park switch seems fine, even checked with an old one. also checked with different relays, now guess its the stork switch at fault.
 
Why would the stalk switch suddenly fail?

With the ignition on, and the wipers off, see if you have 12V at any of the wiper motor connections.
 
In which case it looks like the park switch has failed. I haven't taken one of these apart, but some types have a brush running on a ring attached to the large gear wheel, others have a swappable microswitch, so worth a look inside to see if you can repair or change the switch.
 
Ok, new park switch, same fault, new stalk switch same fault, new relay same fault.
Just to clarify, speed1 and 2 work fine, intermittent has a mind of its own, wiper moves a few degrees then stop. No park function.

Do have 12v on the WG wire at the wiper motor plug.

As the park switch does function can I assume the power its switching off isn't there to be switched off? if so am I looking for 12v on the other 3 wires at the plug end?

Can I rely on the Haynes manual wiring diagram number 9?
 
When I purchased my TD5 it had a wiper issue not exactly as you describe but similar (not exactly the same because sometimes it would work fine).
I did investigate all as you have done but found that a circlip was missing allowing the wiper motor gear and the cam which activated the switch to park the wipers to float about so sometimes work sometimes not.

The clip is easily accessed on the front of the wiper motor
517646.jpg
It fits onto the large shaft in the picture there is also a spacing washer next to the motor then the circlip. The cam which activates the parking switch is the white part in the photograph.
 
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Tim's suggestion would make sense, because the initial symptom, and the added info about intermittent both point to the switch not working - so if the wheel that works it isn't moving...
 
Ok cheers, have some checking to do.
All was fine until last week when both wheel boxes seized up and jammed the gear, since changed them, what could that have knocked out of sync?
 
As I said, I haven't taken one of these motors apart, but did you dislodge anything when connecting the cable to the drive wheel? The switch is operated by that wheel so the problem is there somewhere.
 
Done some checks.

I have 12v at the motor plug end on the various pins, pin 2 at flick, pin 3 speed1, pin 4 permanent 12v, pin 5 at speed 2.

Does this suggest that the relay and stork switch are both working correctly?

Don't have any float under the motor gear wheel circlip.
 
boguing said:
Tim's suggestion would make sense, because the initial symptom, and the added info about intermittent both point to the switch not working - so if the wheel that works it isn't moving...
Click to expand...

Its not that the gear wheel was not working the issue was the gear which includes the switch activating cam had moved away from the switch. Thus the switch was not touching the cam to switch it off at the correct position.
I found this out by leaving the parking switch electrically connected but removed from the wiper motor and activated it by hand. The wiper stopped each time just at the spot I pushed the switch so I knew all wiring and wiper linkages were fine so it had to be the cam which activates the switch.
20151224_143601.jpg If you look at this pic you will see that I have removed the parking switch but still connected the cam can be seen through the motor aperture and by pressing the switch all worked correctly. Now look at the shaft that the gear rotates on (centre of picture only a spacing washer is fitted it should have a circlip fitted as well. Like this it allowed the gear which includes the cam to move away from the parking switch no longer activating the switch which made the parking of the wipers intermittent. Replaced the circlip all was fine, sorry no pic of the clip fitted.
 
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As I'm getting a little paranoid about my own incompetence to resolve this, just took the motor off, detached the drive worm on the bench, took the gear wheel out to check the switch pusher on back, all seems fine. no wear or play. The motor still stops dead when the stork is placed in off. so in terms sequence of supply, (is the motor 24v?) pin 3 at 12v = speed 1?, pin 3 plus 5 at 24v = speed 2? pin 4 12 v to drive to the park position? does this suggest pin 4s supply isn't getting to the motor? And this all after replacing the park switch. if I'm talking ****e please tell me!
 

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Have you removed and then replaced the switch actuating cam on the crank assembly?
517646.jpg

Looking at the gear it has two sets of blind holes into which the cam can be fitted, I believe this is for right hand and left hand drive vehicles putting it into the wrong set would make the timing all to cock.
The white / green wire is the permanent live feed and should always have 12volts it is this feed that the switch switches off when parking.
Is the vehicle a civilian TD5? because you have thrown a spanner into the works with 24volts at pins 3 & 5 it should be only 12 volts.
 
Just to recap, I only have 12v at any point. was just wondering on the function of the motor.
ok, a week ago the wheel boxes both seized, since then no 'off' position parking, just stops in its position when you put the stork to the off position. Prior to this no issues, all working fine.
Wiper motor is about 2 years old in a 2004 TD5 civilian.
All plug pins have 12v at the various switch positions including pin 4 when off, ranging from 12.35V to 11.88V
Switch pusher is in the correct place, as the pictures above.
New park switch fitted.

What does the park switch actually switch off, i haven't looked inside the switch its self.

Forgive my ignorance in these matters, am i correct in assuming pin 4 12v is the power source that drive the motor until the park switch cuts it off? the other pins all provide the juice for the other functions? So if i remove the park switch but leave it connected i should get 12v across to the motor feed side when the stork is in the off position?
 
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