Colour Change

Hi all,

I currently have a SIII 88” (with limestone hard top), purchased about a month ago. The chassis and bulkhead are great (1 tiny outrigger hole), but it was never a museum piece - paint was chipped etc and I wasn’t a fan of the colour (NATO green). Since doing some lanes in it I’ve noticed the paint is starting to flake away, and I had a minor disagreement with a gate the other day which has necessitated a new wing (in a different colour).

I’ve taken the plunge and am about to purchase a 110 with dreadful bodywork, so that will be used for any laning from now on.

I’m considering a colour change to a nice Pastel Green, to match the Series’ changed use as more of a classic rather than off-roader - I plan on getting a rag top for it eventually. I’m torn between coach painting it myself and a Respray - coach paint is naturally a lot of work, but my main concern is getting the interior bits done right as I’d like to add value. Alternatively, I would consider a full Respray to include the inside bits.

I was wondering if anyone has any experience on cost for a similar respray recently? I’d not really be looking to do the prep myself as I figured it’d be best to leave it to the professionals.

I bet a proper respray might exceed the cars value!

That’s currently what I’m thinking - I’ve been told 3.5 cash by a LR specialist garage I normally use but I’m not sure if that’s just the exterior.

Any repaint is a lot of work, more so if doing a proper job and changing colour.
Are you able to spray paint yourself?

No, I’d probably be looking to do a coach paint with the paint man kit. Time intensive but on the exterior the only but that concerns me is getting the tailgate right

Many of us here use synthetic tractor enamel, sprayed or brushed/rolled on. Given a couple of weeks to fully harden it is a tough covering that retains its shine and remains a tad flexible. Tractol is a popular make. Suspect coach painta are much the same.

tottot said:

Many of us here use synthetic tractor enamel, sprayed or brushed/rolled on. Given a couple of weeks to fully harden it is a tough covering that retains its shine and remains a tad flexible. Tractol is a popular make. Suspect coach painta are much the same.

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How hard is it to get a decent finish on the tailgate?
Do people on here tend to do the interior bits as well?

I have painted mine pretty much all over by brushing and found I got a good finish when I tried with a small addition of white spirit which helped the paint flow to a very smooth finish, mine is pastel green so didn’t remove much to get to the hard places

I'm in the middle of painting mine. Have a look here, https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/steves-unexpected-series-3-rebuild.292955/page-40 I was dead set on brush painting until I tried it. I got a cheap spray set up and I'm doing it in the garage at home. I've got no previous experience and it's by no means perfect but I'm happier with it. See what you think. I would say that brush finishes can be great if you can do it, but I can't.

I have done both of mine with rollers and brushes using synthetic enamel. I have just done the 110 again as part of its rebuild after the fire (link). Both of mine were the same colour to begin with so I have never bothered painting the inside. Especially as most of the i side cannot be seen anyway and the bits that can very quickly get scuffed and scratched through use. Unless trying to go for full
Concourse you certainly Won’t add value with a a “professional” respray given how much it will cost initially. But diy even if it does an add value it will tidy it up and if selling increase interest.

dag019 said:

I have done both of mine with rollers and brushes using synthetic enamel. I have just done the 110 again as part of its rebuild after the fire (link). Both of mine were the same colour to begin with so I have never bothered painting the inside. Especially as most of the i side cannot be seen anyway and the bits that can very quickly get scuffed and scratched through use. Unless trying to go for full
Concourse you certainly Won’t add value with a a “professional” respray given how much it will cost initially. But diy even if it does an add value it will tidy it up and if selling increase interest.

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Thanks! Sorting the paintwork has become a little bit of a back seat issue after I misjudged a puddle and the rear crossmember gave up during the recovery (and has developed a brake pull/wheel wobble, and suspect I need to look at the starter motor engagement after it failed to start the morning after). Thinking about sorting the wing in NATO green as a stop gap measure!

That certainly rearranges your priorities. Good luck.

Ouch! That looks painful, new rear 1/4 chassis ?

tom.brandford said:

I currently have a SIII 88” (with limestone hard top), purchased about a month ago. The chassis and bulkhead are great...

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Just shows how easy it is for chassis rot to go unnoticed.

steve2286w said:

Ouch! That looks painful, new rear 1/4 chassis ?

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I’m hoping just a rear cross member but frankly have just sent it to the excellent local garage and prepared to wince at the bill as I need it back for the lakes at the end of the month

WoodyO said:

Just shows how easy it is for chassis rot to go unnoticed.

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To be fair to the old girl, the other car did lift its front wheels! I’m hoping it’s just the central section that’s gone and the chassis legs are okay

In other news, have decided to coach paint it next week in Dark Bronze green before the lakes. Had always liked the pastel green but given it’s a hard top and has retro aftermarket fold up side seats in the rear it might look a little odd with the top off (and be a faff) — think the darker green looks a bit better with the limestone roof vs pastel and also means I don’t really need to worry about the inside

Done wi w brush. About 3 hours all in.