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Checking EAS compressor and diaphragm valve.

Discussion in 'Technical Archive' started by wammers, Dec 20, 2011.

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  1. wammers

    wammers No longer with us, RIP Donater

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    Remove inlet filter. Place finger over inlet. There should be suction. If no suction strip compressor and check piston seal and inlet/outlet valves in head. If suction. Remove compressor from mounts and remove blue pipe from compressor outlet. With compressor running put a finger over outlet, it should not be possible to prevent air escaping. If air can be stopped strip and service compressor. If air cannot be stopped, replace blue pipe and remove exhaust outlet silencer from valve block. White cylindrical screw in unit to rear of valve block. With compressor running place a finger over outlet. If air is escaping, either diaphragm has failed (common fail) or diaphragm solenoid valve (above exhaust port on block) has failed (very rare). If all checks out compressor is making good air and should inflate tank in five or six minutes.

    RUNNING COMPRESSOR OFF VEHICLE.

    To check compressor off vehicle. Connect 12 volts Positive lead to GREEN wire. Negative lead to BLACK wire. Compressor should run. Under NO circumstances connect 12 volt Positive to Orange wire or allow it to contact it's terminal whilst compressor is running, thermal switch will be destroyed.

    RUNNING COMPRESSOR ON DIAGNOSTICS OR BY BRIDGING PINS 3 and 5 ON RELAY 20.

    Compressor can be run on diagnostics or by bridging compressor relay regardless of thermal switch condition. Compressor running in either mode does NOT mean thermal switch is sound. See below for switch check. If compressor will not run with relay bridged check master fuse 2.

    CHECKING THERMAL SWITCH ON COMPRESSOR THAT DOES NOT RUN ON VEHICLE.

    Remove compressor plug from socket. Test continuity between Orange wire and Black wire. If continuity switch is ok. If none switch is duff. OR if you don't own a test meter. Leave plug connected and strip a small amount of cover on Orange wire back. Connect a wire to this and run it to ground. If compressor then runs thermal switch is duff.

    FOR THOSE WITH A CERTAIN PROBLEM.

    If you have done all the checks, your compressor is healthy, and you can detect no appreciable drop on a corner, but each morning or even if you have been parked a while, the EAS flashes for ages when you set off trying to get up to standard from an indicated low position with the compressor running. You have a problem with the NRVs. With the car up to height and engine off, with a door open. Wait a few mins for delay relay to do it's thing. Then remove exhaust filter and put your finger over outlet. If you have air coming out that cannot be easily stopped (high pressure) NRV1 is leaking air from tank. It's time to change the O rings on these little buggers. BUT. I have found the Red or Orange O rings you can get in the repair kit are very soft and fail over time. Specially if the small cone shaped guide nose on the NRV is worn. Remove red or Orange O rings and fit Black Nitrile ones problem solved. Red/Orange seem to be fine everywhere else, just too soft for NRVs.

    REPLACING DIAPHRAGM.

    Remove valve block. Remove alloy block blue pipe goes into. Four Allen bolts. Don't lose spring. Flick out old diaphragm fit new. Bolt back up not forgetting spring. Refit valve block.
    __________________

    CHECKING FOR LEAKING CORNER VALVES.

    With compressor stopped (ignition off, door open) remove exhaust silencer. Put a finger over exhaust port, you may have to wait some time for pressure to build if it is a very slight leak. If you get air coming out that cannot be easily stopped then odds on NRV1 is leaking (Pressure storage side). If you get air coming out that can be reasonably easily stopped (lower pressure) odds on you have a corner solenoid leaking. Can also be checked by stretching the neck of a balloon over the exhaust silencer. Any leak will inflate the balloon. The corner that is dropping will give a big clue as to which valve it is. Only two things can cause a valve to leak. The small O'ring at the base of the solenoid valve or the seal on the bottom of the shaft itself. All the other O'rings can only leak when bag is being filled. Remove valve and check for drier residue contamination on shaft seal clean and replace.

    CHECKING COMPRESSOR.

    Whilst you have the compressor down it makes sense to replace the exhaust valve O ring. Secure it in it's seat with a very small amount of silicone sealant. Make sure the reed sits flush on it. And set the backing reed about 2 mm from the exhaust reed at the toe. The inlet reed should be dead flat and sit flush on the head, no air gap between head and reed. If you hold it up to a lamp you can check this. Backing reed should be set with a slight gap at toe to allow inlet reed to move freely under suction, but not over flex. If you change the piston seal take out the piston and crank. Get hold of the lip of the seal with a good pair of pliers. Try pulling the seal out from between piston and retainer. If this works then get a sharp flat screwdriver and gently go round the retaining ring and lever it off the piston. If not just cut as much of the seal out as you can then use the screwdriver. Gently clean any burrs from the piston made by the retainer being pushed on. Very gently mind you don't want the retainer to be a sloppy fit. Put new seal on piston and press retaining ring back on to clamp it. It needs to be clamped firmly all the way round. I like to put four equally spaced pop marks just inside the joint of piston and retainer as insurance. To fit cylinder over piston present it at a slight angle push it over seal then twist square. One important thing when undoing allen screw that clamps crank to shaft make sure you use a good correct sized allen key, fully engaged using steady pressure. Usually 1/8". Using a 3 mm allen key will more than likely render the allen screw un-removable.

    NOTE:- The OEM or Dunlop compressors are made abroad, some are fitted with a Japanese spec O'ring under the exhaust reed. 1.83 mm cross section. If this O'ring is replaced in refurb by one of the O'rings usually sent out in this country 1.78 mm cross section, in some cases the thinner O'ring will not protrude above the top of the recess as it should. The exhaust reed MUST sit flush onto this O'ring or the compressor will not work correctly. The new O'ring if it falls below the top of the recess MUST be spaced out until 1/3 of it sits above the top of the recess to accept the exhaust reed. Make up a suitable .50 mm packer and secure O'ring and packer in place with silicone sealant.

    DELAY RELAY

    If you get a problem when starting up were all lamps are lit and 35 MPH message is showing. But after a while EAS goes to normal. Remove Delay Relay remove from casing and check for dry solder joints on the large black relay on the board.


    COMPRESSOR TEMP SWITCH.

    AIRPAX 67L120. Look on the Bay for cheapest price.


    VEHICLE JUMPS TO WADE HEIGHT

    Check white plug behind passenger foot well L/H panel for corrosion dampness. This is the connector from height selector switch to ECU. Also remove delay relay and inspect for dry solder joints.

    VALVE BLOCK REPAIR.

    http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/



    EAS INFORMATION DOCUMENT

    http://p38a.net/p38a/2014/01/04/EAS - System Information Document.pdf


    LINK TO EAS SETTING BLOCK DIMENSIONS.

    http://p38arover.com/rover/p38a/LRT_60-003.pdf

    NOTE. These are only suitable for use with Testbook T4. If you are using EASunlock two spacers 105mm long for rears and two spacers 100mm long for fronts are needed. To set standard ride height.

    A full set of blocks to set all heights would be.

    Access.
    2. at 40 mm 2. at 35 mm.

    Motorway.
    2. at 80 mm 2. at 75 mm.

    Standard.
    2. at 105 mm 2. at 100 mm.

    High.
    2. at 145 mm 2. at 140 mm.

    If you really wanted to be pedantic with the heights. But i am sure the 5 mm won't make a lot of difference.

    Lift suspension, place blocks in bumpstops, lower car onto spacers, take live readings, write to ECU. Same procedure for all heights.

    Note: LONGER BLOCKS TO REAR.

    Or you can use tape measure method. Measuring from centre of wheel to wheel arch lip. On level ground with tyres at correct pressures.

    Access
    405 mm.

    Motorway.
    445 mm.

    Standard.
    470 mm.

    High.
    510 mm.

    All heights + or - 7 mm.

    FLYWHEEL LOCKING PIN DIESEL TIMING.

    Length 130 mm. Major diameter 11.95 mm. Locating Pin on one end. Length 10 mm. Diameter 7.95 mm. Slight chamfer at tip.


    DIESEL INJECTION PUMP TEMPERATURE SENSOR

    Bosch part number 2464509015.

    INJECTION PUMP & EGR INFO.

    http://www.motor-talk.de/forum/aktion/Attachment.html?attachmentId=658025

    SOURCE FOR BEARINGS, OIL SEALS, O'RINGS Etc.

    http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/


    BMW part number for crankshaft sprocket.

    11 21 2 243 401
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2020
  2. pwood999

    pwood999 Well-Known Member Full Member

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    Land Rover EAS System Information Guide.

    Found this online today. Could be useful to someone.

    Pete
     

    Attached Files:

  3. mick warner

    mick warner Member

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  4. mick warner

    mick warner Member

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  5. mick warner

    mick warner Member

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    thanks very much guys kind regards mick
     
  6. wammers

    wammers No longer with us, RIP Donater

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    And the point of doing that three times was?
     
  7. Rallymantony

    Rallymantony Active Member

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    This is excellent, thank you very very much
     
    kurtjohnson10 likes this.
  8. kurtjohnson10

    kurtjohnson10 Well-Known Member

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    Wammers still helping people from the other side.
    R.I.P wammers
     
    Grrrrrr likes this.
  9. kurtjohnson10

    kurtjohnson10 Well-Known Member

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    Great to see members are still using and getting guidance from the late Wammers technical skills :)
     
  10. Rallymantony

    Rallymantony Active Member

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    Oh bless him, I'm newly involved with forum and didn't realise he was no longer with us. I've seen many of his posts and he was obviously a very well known and respected member of the community. Thanks you Wammers for taking the time to share your knowledge.
     
    kurtjohnson10 likes this.
  11. Grrrrrr

    Grrrrrr Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd Full Member

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    For bearing and seals and so forth I have found Wych bearings to be very helpful and very fast.
     
    Stufer likes this.
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