Cheap Coniston green?

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Derry Argue

Guest
I got a tin of touch up spray paint from my local dealers. While
it was not expensive, it lasted about five minutes.

Any suggestions for an after-market spray paint in a can that
approximates to the standard Land Rover green? I'm told this is
"Conniston Green".

I need to paint the rear (internal) load bay which the previous
owner left a shiny alumimium through hard use, so it does not
need to be a perfect match to the exterior paint work. It's a
1997 300Tdi by the way.

Thanks,
Derry
 
On 24 Sep, in article
<[email protected]>
derry(delete)@adviegundogs.co.uk "Derry Argue" wrote:

> I got a tin of touch up spray paint from my local dealers. While
> it was not expensive, it lasted about five minutes.
>
> Any suggestions for an after-market spray paint in a can that
> approximates to the standard Land Rover green? I'm told this is
> "Conniston Green".
>
> I need to paint the rear (internal) load bay which the previous
> owner left a shiny alumimium through hard use, so it does not
> need to be a perfect match to the exterior paint work. It's a
> 1997 300Tdi by the way.

You may do better with brush-painting. And you'll need the proper
primer, whichever way you put the paint on.

Hammerite do a primer for "special metals", galvanised and alloy in
particular, which makes a huge difference. But I wouldn't recommend it
for other than their paints.

Spray cans are expensive.

--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

"History shows that the Singularity started when Sir Tim Berners-Lee
was bitten by a radioactive spider."
 
Derry Argue wrote:
>
> I need to paint the rear (internal) load bay which the previous
> owner left a shiny alumimium through hard use

You mean the previous owner put in years of hard work to get a good
distressed finish and you want to ruin it with a can of paint? If your
Landy was an antique, it would be called patina and would add hundreds to
the value.

:)
--

Rich

Series 2a
RR 4.6
V8 trialler
dog, wife, kids, whatever


 
Halfords will mix paint to order and sell it in 500 mL tins. At least
my local one did for the Caspian Blue on my RRC. Cost about 50% more
than an aerosol from Rover!!

Richard

 
On 24 Sep 2004 11:43:19 GMT, Derry Argue
<derry(delete)@adviegundogs.co.uk> wrote:

>I got a tin of touch up spray paint from my local dealers. While
>it was not expensive, it lasted about five minutes.
>
>Any suggestions for an after-market spray paint in a can that
>approximates to the standard Land Rover green? I'm told this is
>"Conniston Green".

I don't think there's such a thing as "standard" landrover Green.
Although the deep green colour used on older landrovers (series) is
officially Leyland Deep Bronze Green (BLMC 619, IIRC)

>I need to paint the rear (internal) load bay which the previous
>owner left a shiny alumimium through hard use, so it does not
>need to be a perfect match to the exterior paint work. It's a
>1997 300Tdi by the way.
>

Have you thought about Speedliner? It's a spray-on epoxy coating, with
granules for grip, quite popular in the US. There was a company
selling the concept at LRO. www.speedliner.com is the US website,
there must be some companies doing it over here.

Otherwise, it may be best to go down to your local paint factor and
get a large tin of cellulose in the correct colour, and brush it on.
Whilst you'll need several tins to spray it, a spray can does not put
a lot of paint onto the surface anyway, a proper spray gun puts much
thicker coats on. Couple of litres of cellulose, thin it out a bit and
brush it on will result in a much thicker coating anyway. You can also
buy the Etch primer that the bare aluminium will need, this is
probably best obtained in a couple of spray cans, as it only needs a
light covering coat.

Alex
 
On Fri, 24 Sep 2004 18:17:06 +0100, Richard Savage <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Halfords will mix paint to order and sell it in 500 mL tins. At least
>my local one did for the Caspian Blue on my RRC. Cost about 50% more
>than an aerosol from Rover!!
>
>Richard

Indeed they do, and it's much cheaper than spray cans. There is an
interesting (?) point to note though... They have colour books with
loads of Land Rover colours in. The computer doesn't have any (or
many) colours under Land Rover, because they are all on the computer
under BLMC (British Leyland). It took two Halfords stores and 3 paint
mixing people to work that one out when I bought Scarlet Mica for the
101.


--

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig"
'77 101FC Ambulance aka "Burrt"
'03 Volvo V70

My Landies? http://www.seriesii.co.uk
Barcoding? http://www.bartec-systems.com
Tony Luckwill web archive at http://www.luckwill.com
 


Tim Hobbs wrote:

>On Fri, 24 Sep 2004 18:17:06 +0100, Richard Savage <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>
>Indeed they do, and it's much cheaper than spray cans. There is an
>interesting (?) point to note though... They have colour books with
>loads of Land Rover colours in. The computer doesn't have any (or
>many) colours under Land Rover, because they are all on the computer
>under BLMC (British Leyland). It took two Halfords stores and 3 paint
>mixing people to work that one out when I bought Scarlet Mica for the
>101.
>
>
>
>
Yep, but my paint mixer knew what he was doing! And yes Caspian Blue
does seem to be a BLMC colour.

R

 
On Fri, 24 Sep 2004 20:20:37 GMT, Alex <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Otherwise, it may be best to go down to your local paint factor and
>get a large tin of cellulose in the correct colour, and brush it on.
>Whilst you'll need several tins to spray it, a spray can does not put
>a lot of paint onto the surface anyway, a proper spray gun puts much
>thicker coats on. Couple of litres of cellulose, thin it out a bit and
>brush it on will result in a much thicker coating anyway. You can also
>buy the Etch primer that the bare aluminium will need, this is
>probably best obtained in a couple of spray cans, as it only needs a
>light covering coat.

To give the OP an idea of cost:

For all the simple cellulose colours ive bought from the small paint
place near here its been about £14 a litre IIRC.
A gallon drum of cellulose thinners is about £3

They will also make up spray cans.


 
On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 00:17:53 +0100, Tim Hobbs
<[email protected]> wrote:

>After getting stuff from Halfords I later found these guys to be very
>good and also much cheaper than a few spray places that tried to stiff
>me stupid money.
>
>http://www.autopaint.co.uk/

I think the place I use here is one of them. (stupidly, there are 2
car paint places in stoke-on-trent and theyre almost within sight of
each other!.)

 
Tim Hobbs <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> After getting stuff from Halfords I later found these guys
> to be very good and also much cheaper than a few spray
> places that tried to stiff me stupid money.
>
> http://www.autopaint.co.uk/

Looks like a good contact although the nearest depot is 150
miles (?) at Dundee, but they do mail order. I see they have a
technical advice line so will contact them on Monday.

Many thanks. Local paint suppliers (Inverness) quoted £8 for a
litre of thinner and £10 for primer so looks as if I will save
money at the same time.

Derry
 
Hi Derry,

> Any suggestions for an after-market spray paint in a can that
> approximates to the standard Land Rover green? I'm told this is
> "Conniston Green".

Have you asked Brown Brothers in Inverness yet?

> I need to paint the rear (internal) load bay which the previous
> owner left a shiny alumimium through hard use, so it does not
> need to be a perfect match to the exterior paint work. It's a
> 1997 300Tdi by the way.

I don't know how successful your painting the rear floor will be, Derry. I
did the rear tub, inside and out on the 110 that's just finished (about
three coats of undercoat and three top coat, that's on top of the LR white
it was originally. Still seems to scratch quite badly. Have you looked at
any spray on truck bed lining kits? I think that would be a sight longer
lasting for a LR that's used like yours!

Regards

William MacLeod
 
William MacLeod <[email protected]> wrote in
news:eek:[email protected]:

> Hi Derry,
>
>> Any suggestions for an after-market spray paint in a can
>> that approximates to the standard Land Rover green? I'm
>> told this is "Conniston Green".
>
> Have you asked Brown Brothers in Inverness yet?

Called in on them yesterday. £8 a litre for thinner and £10 a
litre for undercoat. They did not have smaller quantities and I
have postponed. Parting with money is noit my favourite
occupation!
>
>> I need to paint the rear (internal) load bay which the
>> previous owner left a shiny alumimium through hard use, so
>> it does not need to be a perfect match to the exterior
>> paint work. It's a 1997 300Tdi by the way.
>
Have you
> looked at any spray on truck bed lining kits? I think that
> would be a sight longer lasting for a LR that's used like
> yours!

Where do I get that from? I may have located a source of
surplus industrial belting which will fit the floor. Saw it in a
110 the other day and was impressed.
>
> Regards
>
> William MacLeod
>
Long term, I suppose I will sell the 300, so it doesn't really
need to be tarted up until that is imminent. At the moment the
colouring could be described as "Dalmation"<G>.

Derry
 

> I may have located a source of
> surplus industrial belting which will fit the floor. Saw it in a
> 110 the other day and was impressed.
>


Belting works very well - deadens some of the noise, too.

David

 
On 25 Sep 2004 08:22:40 GMT, Derry Argue
<derry(delete)@adviegundogs.co.uk> wrote:

>Tim Hobbs <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> After getting stuff from Halfords I later found these guys
>> to be very good and also much cheaper than a few spray
>> places that tried to stiff me stupid money.
>>
>> http://www.autopaint.co.uk/
>
>Looks like a good contact although the nearest depot is 150
>miles (?) at Dundee, but they do mail order. I see they have a
>technical advice line so will contact them on Monday.
>

Seems a little far away, are you sure there isn't a local franchise
somewhere near you? Personally I always use Autopaint, the local
franchise in Luton, only once have I had the wrong colour, and that
was not the guys fault, there was a discrepancy between the colour
book and the computer, resulting in two different paint colours for
the same paint code.

Alex
 
In message <[email protected]>
Alex <[email protected]> wrote:


[snip]


>>Looks like a good contact although the nearest depot is 150
>>miles (?) at Dundee, but they do mail order. I see they have a
>>technical advice line so will contact them on Monday.
>>
>
>Seems a little far away, are you sure there isn't a local franchise
>somewhere near you? Personally I always use Autopaint, the local
>franchise in Luton, only once have I had the wrong colour, and that
>was not the guys fault, there was a discrepancy between the colour
>book and the computer, resulting in two different paint colours for
>the same paint code.
>
>Alex

Or as an alternative you could buy (via mail order) Tekaloid synthetic
enamel which is a tough Alkyd based paint from either the Avenue group
"[email protected]"
or
Breakwells paints "[email protected]".

Steve.


--
Vehicle Painting Pointers: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce
 

>>
>>Seems a little far away, are you sure there isn't a local franchise
>>somewhere near you? Personally I always use Autopaint, the local
>>franchise in Luton, only once have I had the wrong colour, and that
>>was not the guys fault, there was a discrepancy between the colour
>>book and the computer, resulting in two different paint colours for
>>the same paint code.
>>
>>Alex
>
>Or as an alternative you could buy (via mail order) Tekaloid synthetic
>enamel which is a tough Alkyd based paint from either the Avenue group
>"[email protected]"
>or
>Breakwells paints "[email protected]".
>

Which you will find almost impossible to paint over with anything
except the same again. Should you wish to use 2-pack or cellulose at a
later date, you'll need to sand it all off and etch prime from bare
metal.

I know, I had to take a Landrover rear tub and bonnet back to bare and
respray, as not even 2K etch isolating primer would stick to it
properly.

Incidentally, Cellulose will also not work on top of Hammerite either.

Alex
 
In message <[email protected]>
Alex <[email protected]> wrote:

>>>Seems a little far away, are you sure there isn't a local franchise
>>>somewhere near you? Personally I always use Autopaint, the local
>>>franchise in Luton, only once have I had the wrong colour, and that
>>>was not the guys fault, there was a discrepancy between the colour
>>>book and the computer, resulting in two different paint colours for
>>>the same paint code.
>>>
>>>Alex
>>
>>Or as an alternative you could buy (via mail order) Tekaloid synthetic
>>enamel which is a tough Alkyd based paint from either the Avenue group
>>"[email protected]"
>>or
>>Breakwells paints "[email protected]".
>>
>
>Which you will find almost impossible to paint over with anything
>except the same again.

That is true with any synthetic,

>Should you wish to use 2-pack or cellulose at a later date, you'll
>need to sand it all off and etch prime from bare metal.

Not if you use an isolator or barrier coat, but this needs to be applied
by spray gun.

>I know, I had to take a Landrover rear tub and bonnet back to bare and
>respray, as not even 2K etch isolating primer would stick to it
>properly.

Etching primer is designed for bare metal use, is has no real effect or
benefit applied on painted surfaces.

>Incidentally, Cellulose will also not work on top of Hammerite either.

True, Hammerite is an overrated product and not well suited for many of
the applications it's recommended for.
It lacks the protective qualities it once had, IMO Hammerite can only be
described as a decorative paint.

>Alex


Steve.


--
Vehicle Painting Pointers: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce
 
>>
>>Which you will find almost impossible to paint over with anything
>>except the same again.
>
>That is true with any synthetic,
>
>>Should you wish to use 2-pack or cellulose at a later date, you'll
>>need to sand it all off and etch prime from bare metal.
>
>Not if you use an isolator or barrier coat, but this needs to be applied
>by spray gun.
>
>>I know, I had to take a Landrover rear tub and bonnet back to bare and
>>respray, as not even 2K etch isolating primer would stick to it
>>properly.
>
>Etching primer is designed for bare metal use, is has no real effect or
>benefit applied on painted surfaces.

Which is a problem if you have rubbed down and have a mixture of bare
and painted surfaces. I still have the bonnet sitting around, I've
never seen anything quite like it, the primer applied is supposed to
do both Etch and Isolate, even normal isolating primer won't stick to
it either.

**** knows what's on it, but I would have had to go completely bare
metal and start from scratch. I got another bonnet from stock and
painted that one instead.

Alex
 
In message <[email protected]>
Alex <[email protected]> wrote:

>>>I know, I had to take a Landrover rear tub and bonnet back to bare and
>>>respray, as not even 2K etch isolating primer would stick to it
>>>properly.
>>
>>Etching primer is designed for bare metal use, is has no real effect or
>>benefit applied on painted surfaces.
>
>Which is a problem if you have rubbed down and have a mixture of bare
>and painted surfaces.

If you only have relatively small areas of bare metal to etch you can
always refer to the old cotton cloth or rag method of applying acid
etch, you only need to wipe over the metal to create a key for
subsequent coats.

>I still have the bonnet sitting around, I've never seen anything quite
>like it, the primer applied is supposed to do both Etch and Isolate,
>even normal isolating primer won't stick to it either.

An isolator is supposed to sit on top of previous layers without
softening the paint surface underneath, Acid etch or etch primers are
solvent baring paints that use aggressive solvents that will nearly
always cause solvent reactions particularly on unknown paint finishes.

I have a tin of unused isolating etch primer in the garage but it's only
suitable for use as an etch primer, I think the so called isolating
properties mean "isolating bare metal" were there'd be no risk of
solvent reaction.

Acid etch as you probably know is a resoluble solvent product whereas
the traditional isolator or barrier coat is an alcohol non soluble form.

>**** knows what's on it, but I would have had to go completely bare
>metal and start from scratch. I got another bonnet from stock and
>painted that one instead.

Is it possible to apply UPOL's Barcote isolator for example on freshly
painted synthetic finishes without any adverse solvent reaction.

The two products are entirely different paint types with two completely
different uses and IMO should not be confused.

Hope this make some sense?

Steve.



--
Vehicle Painting Pointers: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce
 
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