Changing springs/dampers on a 110

I'm gonna do this myself one weekend, can anyone tell me what I will need to complete the job?

Anyone got any experience of what will be broken, stuck or rusted to buggery?

What size spanners & sockets etc?

I also want to replace the steering damper too!

I can get some spring compressors from a local place & I have 4 axle stands & all the spanners & sockets
(only 3/8ths drive though?)

The back looks easy enough, but the fronts look a tad difficult.

Anyone got any advice please?

Ta

Nige



--
Subaru WRX (Annabel)

Landrover 110 County Station Wagon (Tyson)

'"Say hello to my little friend"

"Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm gonna do this myself one weekend, can anyone tell me what I will need
> to complete the job?
>
> Anyone got any experience of what will be broken, stuck or rusted to
> buggery?

I did the rear springs on the Rangie. That way straight forward enough. Jack
up , remove wheel, remove shocker. lower to sit on an axle stand. Remove
plate which holds spring in place (2 bolts into axle - One of the four
sheared!!) remove plate. Jack up (chassis) the side your doing until you
have enough articulation to remove the spring. Watch for the brake line
getting stretched or torn though.
Refit new...
walk off looking smug,
wait for someone else to pop along for the knuckle scraping front end
instructions.
Steering damper is a piece of cake.

Lee D

so Lee_D was, like...
> "Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I'm gonna do this myself one weekend, can anyone tell me what I will
>> need to complete the job?
>>
>> Anyone got any experience of what will be broken, stuck or rusted to
>> buggery?
>
> I did the rear springs on the Rangie. That way straight forward
> enough. Jack up , remove wheel, remove shocker. lower to sit on an
> axle stand. Remove plate which holds spring in place (2 bolts into
> axle - One of the four sheared!!) remove plate. Jack up (chassis) the
> side your doing until you have enough articulation to remove the
> spring. Watch for the brake line getting stretched or torn though.
> Refit new...
> walk off looking smug,
> wait for someone else to pop along for the knuckle scraping front end
> instructions.
> Steering damper is a piece of cake.
>
> Lee D

Similar technique on the front, although I would lower the chassis onto the
axle stand and move the axle up and down using the jack - seems simpler. I
managed it on a 90 without spring compressors - as Lee says, just watch you
don't strain the brake lines.

At the front, you will have to undo the shock top nut from inside the engine
bay, Remove the funny shaped plate from the inner wing and you can see it
all. Underneath the arches, undo the 4 nuts that hold on the turret (some
will be rusted solid, so plan to replace a couple, although I got away with
it). You have to remove this to lift the shocker out. That's the top of
the shocker released. The bottom nut is a bit of a sod, as it's in between
the mounting bracket with poor access, and the shock will turn as you try to
undo it. A big Stilson on the old shocker (which will damage it) will hold
the shocker still - if you can't get it between the spring coils, drop the
axle a bit more. I'd recommend a normal spanner on the bottom nut. No room
for a socket, and *under no circumstances* use a ratchet spanner. If you
get it almost out and the gap is such that you can't get the spanner out,
you've no way of tightening it up again, and you're f0cked. A bit of
patience and a lot of swearing will get the nut off, and Robert is your
mother's brother. As long as you don't plan using the shocker again, a long
cold chisel through the gap and a big hammer should sort it. As long as you
get the bottom nut off, the shock will lift out.

Refitting is the reverse of removal, only with new bits a damn sight easier.

Armed with only HBOL and never having done it before, it took me an
afternoon to do all 4 shocks and springs. And that was on an 15-year-old
ex-farmer's 90 on its original kit.


--
Rich
==============================
Disco 300 Tdi auto
S2a 88" SW
Tiggrr (V8 trialler)

Richard Brookman wrote:

> At the front ......

> The bottom nut is a bit of a sod, as it's in between
> the mounting bracket with poor access, and the shock will turn as you try to
> undo it. A big Stilson on the old shocker (which will damage it) will hold
> the shocker still - if you can't get it between the spring coils, drop the
> axle a bit more. I'd recommend a normal spanner on the bottom nut. No room
> for a socket, and *under no circumstances* use a ratchet spanner. If you
> get it almost out and the gap is such that you can't get the spanner out,
> you've no way of tightening it up again, and you're f0cked.

> As long as you don't plan using the shocker again, a long
> cold chisel through the gap and a big hammer should sort it. As long as you
> get the bottom nut off, the shock will lift out.

Provided that you're scrapping the shocker I've found it easiest to put
a 1/2" drill through the lower nut. If positioned correctly you can cut
through the lower stud on the shocker at the same time and it all falls
off in your hand.

On or around Wed, 29 Jun 2005 20:15:52 +0100, "Richard Brookman"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:


>At the front, you will have to undo the shock top nut from inside the engine
>bay, Remove the funny shaped plate from the inner wing and you can see it
>all. Underneath the arches, undo the 4 nuts that hold on the turret (some
>will be rusted solid, so plan to replace a couple, although I got away with
>it). You have to remove this to lift the shocker out. That's the top of
>the shocker released.

Note: If you're doing springs and dampers at the same time, you don't have
to undo the turret, only the top damper nut.

Note2: Those nice HD open-sided turrets sold by Llama David among others are
not only the hinges in the bee's legs, they're also the entire canine
reproductive system: a) you'll never have to remove 'em again, as the shocks
will go in and out the sides of 'em, and b) because of this, if the fixing
bolts shear, you can weld the HD etc. turret in place.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Quos deus vult perdere, prius dementat" Euripedes, quoted in
Boswell's "Johnson".

See this months LRO for a guide on how to do it.

If you are going to take the front turrets off be prepared to shear off
one or more of the four studs on the ring. If you don't have all four
it's an MoT failure as it effectively weakens the front shouck
mounting. If you have access to welding equipment it's easy enough to
weld new studs on or you could drill and tap thru the ring and screw
new studs in.

Gordon.

On or around 30 Jun 2005 04:14:46 -0700, [email protected] enlightened us
thusly:

>If you are going to take the front turrets off be prepared to shear off
>one or more of the four studs on the ring. If you don't have all four
>it's an MoT failure as it effectively weakens the front shouck
>mounting. If you have access to welding equipment it's easy enough to
>weld new studs on or you could drill and tap thru the ring and screw
>new studs in.

or, of course, if you're changing springs anyway, new rings with their bolts
are cheap enough.

Mine passed with turrets welded where the bolts had failed, and if you have
the open-sided ones, this doesn't compromise future damper replacements.

<pet-rant>

Why do people insist on calling dampers shock absorbers, when they're not.
If anything, it's the spring that's the shock absorber, or maybe the spring
and damper combined.

</pet-rant>

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Quos deus vult perdere, prius dementat" Euripedes, quoted in
Boswell's "Johnson".

On 2005-06-30, Austin Shackles <[email protected]> wrote:

> Why do people insist on calling dampers shock absorbers, when
> they're not. If anything, it's the spring that's the shock
> absorber, or maybe the spring and damper combined.

Well, the spring bears the weight of the vehicle which is an almost
constant force, but has some shock absorbing qualities, but the
damper's main purpose in life is to absorb small, sudden movements,
i.e. shocks, while providing no support to the vehicle unlike the
springs.

It's the primary purpose of the damper to resist small movements, the
spring supports the load and resists the larger, slower movements.

--
For every expert, there is an equal but opposite expert

so Austin Shackles was, like...
> Note: If you're doing springs and dampers at the same time, you don't
> have to undo the turret, only the top damper nut.

Fair point. I'd forgotten that.

--
Rich
==============================
Disco 300 Tdi auto
S2a 88" SW
Tiggrr (V8 trialler)

so Austin Shackles was, like...
>
> Why do people insist on calling dampers shock absorbers, when they're
> not. If anything, it's the spring that's the shock absorber, or maybe
> the spring and damper combined.

You are absolutely right, of course. They do absorb some of the initial
shock when the fluid is displaced by the piston, but their main function is
to damp the subsequent boinging. Technically, they are indeed dampers.
However, they've been shock absorbers to 99% of the motoring public for the
past couple of millennia, so I think you're on a loser here.



--
Rich
==============================
Disco 300 Tdi auto
S2a 88" SW
Tiggrr (V8 trialler)

In message <[email protected]>
Ian Rawlings <[email protected]> wrote:

> On 2005-06-30, Austin Shackles <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Why do people insist on calling dampers shock absorbers, when
> > they're not. If anything, it's the spring that's the shock
> > absorber, or maybe the spring and damper combined.
>
> Well, the spring bears the weight of the vehicle which is an almost
> constant force, but has some shock absorbing qualities, but the
> damper's main purpose in life is to absorb small, sudden movements,
> i.e. shocks, while providing no support to the vehicle unlike the
> springs.
>
> It's the primary purpose of the damper to resist small movements, the
> spring supports the load and resists the larger, slower movements.
>

Austin is correct in saying they should be called dampers.
The purpose of the shock absorber is only to "damp" (in the
engineering sense) the oscillation that occurs in an un-damped
spring - take them off and springs will bounce for a long time.
The shock absorber damps this oscillation such that the spring
will compress (or extend) to the point required, then retrun in
a controlled fashion to "normal".
If you have a nice soft spring, hang a weight on it and then hang
this from a beam/bar. If you pull down on the weight and let go
the spring will bounce (oscillate) for a long time. If there
was a "shock abosrober" built in, then the spring would return
to its original rest position in one move (ideally).

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Helping keep Land Rovers on and off the road to annoy the Lib Dems

On 2005-07-01, beamendsltd <[email protected]> wrote:

> Austin is correct in saying they should be called dampers.
> The purpose of the shock absorber is only to "damp" (in the
> engineering sense) the oscillation that occurs in an un-damped
> spring - take them off and springs will bounce for a long time.

Yes I know this, and I know why they're called dampers, I was just
trying to point out why they have the popular name of shock absorbers,
as they absorb short, sharp shocks very effectively due to the way
they allow relatively slow movements but resist quick movements.

--
For every expert, there is an equal but opposite expert