Changing Oil Rotor Filter

Landlover99 · Sep 28, 2015

Hi all,

I'd like to change my rotor filter, but the Haynes manual says it must be done at the same time as a main oil & filter change. I'm guessing (and it is only a guess) that this is to minimize oil spillage from inside the rotor cap when it's removed.
The problem is I've already changed the main oil filter and oil and don't want to have to do it again! The rotor housing looks fairly high-up in relation to the engine and if the engine hasn't been run for several hours, I'd imagine the general oil level will be low enough for spillage not to be a problem. Has anyone any idea if I can get away with this?
Ta, LL.

MJI · Sep 28, 2015

You will be fine just do it

Brown · Sep 28, 2015

There's hardly any oil in there, even after the engine has been running. The filter casing itself often has a bit in so it dribbles on the way to the bin. But the housing itself doesn't retain oil.

Landlover99 · Sep 28, 2015

Thank you, gentlemen. Suitably encouraged, I shall give it a bash and report back in due course.....

Landlover99 · Sep 28, 2015

Done it. Just as you said, about half a cupful in the filter and that was that.
Only problem was I stripped the threads in the casting when taking the bolts out and I don't believe there is any way I could have avoided doing so; the aluminium had bonded to the steel (like they typically do). I've cleaned up and replaced the bolts and nipped 'em up real carefully with a drop or two of Granville threadlock. I should really tap 'em out and fit larger bolts to do a proper job, but...I'd sooner move on. Unless you chaps think I could be in trouble leaving it like this? I have no idea if there's much pressure under that cover or not. :-/

markomate2 · Sep 28, 2015

The easier fix, and one that avoids the same thing happening again, is to carefully drill out both holes then use long bolts and nylock nuts.
Dont drill it out with the cover off though, chance you may drop swarf into the sump via the drain tube, or just put a rag in the way to stop that happening!
Mark

Landlover99 · Sep 29, 2015

markomate2 said:
The easier fix, and one that avoids the same thing happening again, is to carefully drill out both holes then use long bolts and nylock nuts.

Is there enough room under the unit to get a spanner on the nylocks, though? I'm guessing at least one of them would be impossibly fouled by something getting in the way!

markomate2 · Sep 29, 2015

I only had to do the one nearest to the engine block. Im sure there is room but Ill have a look at mine tonight.
Mark

gjmac · Oct 2, 2015

If it's of any help; did mine a week or ywo back. I found that at some time or other the thread nearest the head had been replaced with nut and bolt, impossible to get at without removing oil filter. I do feel that both jobs should be done at the same time anyway so it's no trouble just remember to do the oil-rotor while the filter is off and out of the way.

Brown · Oct 3, 2015

Another option is to find a bolt of the same diameter and thread but slightly longer. There's often a bit of thread at the bottom of the holes that doesn't get the same wear and tear as the upper part, so it'll keep you going through a few more services. The bolts don't need to be really tight as it is the rubber ring that does the sealing, they just need to hold the lid in place.

Changing Oil Rotor Filter

Landlover99

Active Member

MJI

Well-Known Member

Brown

Well-Known Member

Landlover99

Active Member

Landlover99

Active Member

markomate2

Well-Known Member

Landlover99

Active Member

markomate2

Well-Known Member

gjmac

Member

Brown

Well-Known Member

Similar threads