Cable-operated R380 gearbox conversion

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thetim

Well-Known Member
Posts
379
Hi all,
I've started converting my R380 gearbox to a cable-operated remote system. The existing shifters are held on by four bolts on top of the rear case. Inside, things are pretty straightforward - no pictures as it's dark outside! At the local scrapyard, I found a gear lever which is designed to turn shifter movement into pull-and-push motion in two cables - one handles left-to-right movement of the lever, the other deals with forward and backwards.

By adapting this to sit on the gearbox, I can turn cable movement into gear selection - using it as an actuator instead of a gear lever.

The first step was to mirror the whole shifter left-to-right in order to fit into the available space inside the gearbox; in its initial configuration, the bellcrank that turned left-to-right into cable movement fouled on the insides of the gearbox. Specifically, it hit the unit that stops you going from fifth into reverse, and I didn't want to remove that...

Next, I had to drill and tap an M8 hole in the bottom of the gear lever. An M8 partially threaded bolt with its head cut off is exactly the right size to fit into the hole in the swivelling ball that translates gear lever movement into gearbox movement. Again, photos to follow.

Now the lever assembly looks like this:
Gear lever two.jpg
Gear lever.jpg


The bolt is only in there for test purposes; something longer and shinier will replace it. Then I'll find out how much adjustment is needed to position it properly. After that, I'll cut out a mount plate, cut the long lever short, and weld up some sides and a lid to box it all in. The control cables will pass through the front of the box via bulkhead fittings, and the whole lot will interface with a similar shifter in the cab of the vehicle. At least, that's the plan...
 
I'm building an oddball with a Forward Control layout and a tilting cab. The gearbox is three or four feet behind the driver.
 
I'll be interested to see how this turns out because I have a similar problem. Decision is a few months away, but I do like the idea rod linkage all 'on show' - I think there was a Köenigsegg that had one but I can't find pictures. Can't fault your logic though, the little Punto I run around in has cable, and you never know from the feel.

I'm sure I'm not alone in wanting to see some pictures of the car itself though!
 
101FCs too. I don't have a way to get from the gearbox to the cab with a solid solution though - too much up-and-over and down-and-under. Mainly the engine's too tall!
 
This is the beastie. Work progresses slowly - bumper's not attached in this shot!
Front with lights fitted.jpg
Tilt cab.png
 
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Not exactly :) It's built of various things, with a bobtailed 101 chassis underneath it all.
 
Roughed out a mounting plate and positioned the mechanism. All of the gears are available. After this, I think I've overcome the design hurdles and now it's just execution - hopefully just be a case of making a box for it all to fit inside.The exception to this would be if the fore-and-aft forces are too high; I'm wondering about adding a compact lever mechanism to double the travel and halve the force on the cable in order to avoid rapid cable wear and failure.

Mounting plate:
Mounting plate roughed out.jpg

Where the mechanism will sit:
Mechanism trial position.jpg
 
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Slow day today due to family commitments, so I didn't get much time to work. That said, I can now bolt (one end of) the mechanism in and select all gears successfully. It does need quite a bit of force though and as I don't want cables snapping, I've ordered some bearings and a rose joint to give more mechanical advantage on the fore-and-aft lever. The left-to-right one is fine.
Bolted in.jpg
 
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You're definitely giving me stuff to think about! I'm at least a couple of weeks away from having an engine and gearbox sitting in a chassis, let alone knowing where I'm going to sit, but I do know that Rose joints will feature strongly.
 
Quick update. Fore and aft movement is via a rose joint, screwed onto a M10 bolt which is welded to the cut-down end of the gearlever. A short lever gives 2:1 mechanical advantage. The fixed end of this lever sits on skateboard bearings which run in the two vertical channels, so it can float up and down as the gearbox shifts forward and back. Needs some tidying up to make it look a little better and deal with a few niggling points where things catch slightly, then I'll box it all in to keep the weather out.
P1140427.JPG
P1140428.JPG
 
Boxing in is in progress. Mounting a centring spring was trickier than I'd expected as it didn't quite fit in its original location, but the alternative arrangement works well enough. The cables fit as they should and it all works. Next it needs a lid, some tidying up and stiffening, and some paint.
P1140456.JPG
 
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