Series 3 Brake Rebuild Series 3 Need pumping

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
jolly-109

jolly-109

Active Member
Posts
166
Location
Herefordshire
I have a similar problem to the other post, I have rebuilt my brakes and the rear ones work fine but the front don't work until I pump the pedal about three times, then if I leave it five minutes it will need pumping again!
I have bled the brakes for hours and there doesn't appear to be air.

I have the pads very close to the drum to reduce travel.

Any suggestions
 
Have you got 10" drums with the single cylinder. If you have is the spring going from the leading shoe to the retaining peg? I the spring is between the shoes then it will give similar symptoms
 
samc88 said:
Have you got 10" drums with the single cylinder. If you have is the spring going from the leading shoe to the retaining peg? I the spring is between the shoes then it will give similar symptoms
Click to expand...
I have the drums with two cylinders (11") at the front and 10" on the rear. I have spent most of the day trying to bleed them but I am going round in circles. They seem to be working " a bit" but with the wheels on axles stands and the wife pressing on the pedal with both feet I can still turn the front wheels by grabbing hold of the tyres and turning although not easy but I am guessing I shouldn't be able to?
There seems to be a lot of travel on the pedal before it actually does anything, is there any adjustment?
What else can I do?
 
samc88 said:
Have you got 10" drums with the single cylinder. If you have is the spring going from the leading shoe to the retaining peg? I the spring is between the shoes then it will give similar symptoms
Click to expand...
I have the drums with two cylinders (11") at the front and 10" on the rear. I have spent most of the day trying to bleed them but I am going round in circles. They seem to be working " a bit" but with the wheels on axles stands and the wife pressing on the pedal with both feet I can still turn the front wheels by grabbing hold of the tyres and turning although not easy but I am guessing I shouldn't be able to?
There seems to be a lot of travel on the pedal before it actually does anything, is there any adjustment?
What else can I do?
 
There is adjustment on the master cylinder rod (if you've changed that) and the snail cams.
If its pumping, there still may air. Try pressure bleeding or a vacuum pump on the drum to be sure.
Also try flushing back the fluid by taking drums off and squeezing shoes in (or use g clamp on slave).
If it's so weak that you can turn the wheel by hand then there's a serious loss of pressure.
 
Last edited:
If you got air into the system they can be a pig to bleed as the nipple is the lowest point. You should adjust the snail cam to press the pistons into the slave cylinders before you bleed them to minimise the internal volume then adjust the snail cams till the wheels lock up then wind them back one notch. I find it helps to step on the pedal to centralise the shoes after you've fiddled with the snail cams.
 
SpringDon said:
There is adjustment on the master cylinder rod (if you've changed that) and the snail cams.
If its pumping, there still may air. Try pressure bleeding or a vacuum pump on the drum to be sure.
Also try flushing back the fluid by taking drums off and squeezing shoes in (or use g clamp on slave).
If it's so weak that you can turn the wheel by hand then there's a serious loss of pressure.
Click to expand...
I have been pressure bleeding plus tried it with the pistons back
 
ajb403 said:
If you got air into the system they can be a pig to bleed as the nipple is the lowest point. You should adjust the snail cam to press the pistons into the slave cylinders before you bleed them to minimise the internal volume then adjust the snail cams till the wheels lock up then wind them back one notch. I find it helps to step on the pedal to centralise the shoes after you've fiddled with the snail cams.
Click to expand...
I have been pressure bleeding plus tried it with the pistons back
 
Did you adjust the snail cams afterwards so they lock the wheel up without the pedal being pressed and then wind them back one click?
 
In that case, try a new master cylinder.
One desperate final measure is to start blanking off end or sides to see if the problem can be isolated.
Alternatively, clamp all the cylinders to see if you can get pressure.
 
They can be a real pig. The usual tricks are as said clamping slave pistons in, removing backplate and turn upside down to bleed or my personal favourite. ....bleeding by cracking off the pipe to the top cylinder first.....

Often a combination of everything above repeated randomly until suddenly something works that hasn't for the previous 2 days :mad:

If it's a dual system it might be a master problem.
 
has your land rover got a brake failure valve?these can make bleeding more hard first of all start bleeding at rear wheel cylinder furthest away fom master cylinder turn ignition on and observe brake failure warning light watch this light at all times during bleeding slacken off bleed nipple slowly press bedal three quarters of full travel release slowly keep going until no bubbles are present then tighten nipple on down stroke repeat operation on all wheels.if during bleeding brake failure light lights up the bleed nipple must be closed and the bleed nipple at other end of vehicle opened apply steady pressure on pedal until light goes out then release pedal immediately and close nipple the original bleeding sequence may now be continued hope this may help if after trying other sugestionsn if they don't work you could try above
 
Last edited:
have you got good shoes and good drums, cause if they are worn you may run out of adjustment, i had the same problem and i needed to get over size shoes rebonded with machined drums, i put new cylinder in with some new springs which probably didnt need, did up the snail cam adjuster till the shoe touched the drum and was hard to move and just backed it off till i could move the drum, and then bleed the front brakes, remember to top up fluid, and check all again starting from the furthermost one away and working to the shortest one from master cylinder.
and i got mine to work perfectly then.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Rebuild dual line brake master cylinder
Replies
10
Views
766
tottot
tottot
G
Brake servo on a 2A Diesel ?
Replies
11
Views
528
grewth
G
S
brake spring
Replies
2
Views
530
Bobsticle
Bobsticle
O
rear brake bleed
Replies
8
Views
841
omlette
O
S
Series 3 ignition housing
Replies
2
Views
289
sueg
S
Back
Top