Fatrover
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 914
- Location
- Argyll, Scotland
I reckon you’re right. Might pull the whole thing and replace with trailer wire.
Brake light circuit
- Thread starter Fatrover
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
- Posts
- 31,388
- Location
- North Shropshire
Trailer cables can be the cheapest, nastiest rubbish available. Whatever you get, make sure it's not going to rot. At least it's not in full sun, but could get oily etc
Fatrover
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 914
- Location
- Argyll, Scotland
I know a bloke who runs a trailer place, I’ll get some good tackle off him. Am away tae Greece tomorrow so will update this when I get back and complete it, quite an interesting exercise so far.
- Posts
- 6,334
- Location
- North Perthshire
Minor hijack of the thread while @Fatrover is cooking in Greece...
Similar issue with lack of supply to the switch, BUT mine is ex-mil. Am I right in thinking there should be supply to the brake switch with the Military multi-switch in any of the "standard" lighting modes?
If that is right then I will probably just run a new supply to the switch (from the (new) fuse box.
And while I am here....why have I got a switch on the back of the servo unit?
Similar issue with lack of supply to the switch, BUT mine is ex-mil. Am I right in thinking there should be supply to the brake switch with the Military multi-switch in any of the "standard" lighting modes?
If that is right then I will probably just run a new supply to the switch (from the (new) fuse box.
And while I am here....why have I got a switch on the back of the servo unit?
Can’t help on the first part but as to what the switch is…it’s a pressure gauge that should be hooked in to the brake warning light in the dash. If servo produces no pressure the light comes on to tell you you’ll need to jump on the pedal to try and stop. Least that’s how it works on my civilian s3.
Fatrover
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 914
- Location
- Argyll, Scotland
Right, an update. First, if you think the UKs a ****hole, go to Greece.
Had a go at the brake light issue from scratch today, The fuse is good, the the switch is good. 12 volts in from the hot side, continuity from the open side.. It all looked good on the voltmeter, but still,no brake lights. I pulled the entire fusebox down and started looking for a short. Nothing. Checked voltage with the fuse installed and noticed it would jump from 1 to 5 volts as I moved it....upon closer inspection the inside of the clips are badly tarnished as are most of the other terminals…no amount of cleaning would give me proper conductivity.
Took a feed from the live in side through to the pedal switch, lights work!
looks like a new fuse box will do it but in the meantime I’m legal again!
Had a go at the brake light issue from scratch today, The fuse is good, the the switch is good. 12 volts in from the hot side, continuity from the open side.. It all looked good on the voltmeter, but still,no brake lights. I pulled the entire fusebox down and started looking for a short. Nothing. Checked voltage with the fuse installed and noticed it would jump from 1 to 5 volts as I moved it....upon closer inspection the inside of the clips are badly tarnished as are most of the other terminals…no amount of cleaning would give me proper conductivity.
Took a feed from the live in side through to the pedal switch, lights work!
looks like a new fuse box will do it but in the meantime I’m legal again!
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,056
- Location
- monkeyangerland
That switch is the brake light switch
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,056
- Location
- monkeyangerland
I replaced my fuse block with new as I had varying voltage on my voltmeter gauge would you believe it , I found the issue was the rivets loose on some holding the blade terminals
Fatrover
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 914
- Location
- Argyll, Scotland
I think that’s what’s wrong with mine as well as a **** tone of Sahara dust and that green verde corrosion……in the bin shortly
Fatrover
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 914
- Location
- Argyll, Scotland
Probably worth mentioning that it works opposite to the non servo one,….
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,056
- Location
- monkeyangerland
by that do you mean one normally open and the other normally closed
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,056
- Location
- monkeyangerland
On closer look at pic didn’t notice it before on the front of servo is the unwired switch which as TS2304 says will be for the brake warning light there can be several switches wired in series so it light comes on you know you have a problem somewhere, it’s in the manual as below
Fatrover
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 914
- Location
- Argyll, Scotland
Yes.... Pedal switch is closed when pressed and vice versa for the servo switch - feed to pedal switch is permanent live when ign on
- Posts
- 6,334
- Location
- North Perthshire
Thanks guys. I have wiring for the pedal box and the fluid pressure switch but nothing that looks like it was ever connected to the servo switch. I guess that is something I can look at once the other 185 wee tasks are taken care of.
Still no supply to the pedal box tho.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,056
- Location
- monkeyangerland
The brake switch supply should be the green wire coming from terminal 8 on the fuse box, I was pleasantly surprised when I changed mine to see the terminals are actually numbered , so it might just have come off and hanging nearby ?
Fatrover
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 914
- Location
- Argyll, Scotland
take a feed from the live side of the fuse box and connect across the pedal switch Wires to see if you have a dodgy fuse box like mine, it’s also a green wire on mine
Multimeters tell lies, you can have volts but not enough power to drive the item, bulb/relay etc, caught many people out over the years.
Fatrover
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 914
- Location
- Argyll, Scotland
Yes, agreed. Exactly what’s happened here!
