"Bean can" hydraulics

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Griffdowg

New Member
Posts
7,194
Location
Somewhere in Bristol
My lightweight has a combined brake/clutch reservoir and after (trying to :rolleyes:) adjust my clutch my brakes now seem to be binding a little. I only fiddled with the adjuster and pushrod on the clutch MC. Is there any way it could effect the brakes? and yes, I was adjusting the right one :D

The brakes were binding before, but i have moved the vehicle about since adjusting them (it has no MOT) and all was well until i fiddled with the clutch today. and there was me thinking i was getting it all sorted.

Bloody thing :doh:

G
 
The bean can is just the resevoir for both clutch and brakes, if you look inside it has a center 'cup' sort of thing, thats for the clutch, then an outer reserve for the brakes...they should both have plenty of fluid in.

Maybe another thing is check that the hole in the top of the bean cans cap is not blocked.

Other than that im stumped :confused:
 
they were never much good compared to a seperate system, they work ok on my series2 till i stripped it, suprised yer could still get the lid off !
 
Hi,

My 1960 S2 failed its MOT because the reservoir was leaking. I tok it home, examined it, went back and pointed out it was the clutch union that was leaking. He stuck to his guns.

So is it an MOT fail if the clutch slave is leaking? Arguably yes?

Somebody suggested recently that S3 cluch slaves have their own reservoirs, and can be used for both brake and clutch. Note that the level will drop quicker than normal on the brakes, cos the reservoir is smaller.

I think that a S3 clutch master cylinder, including reservoir, is cheaper than a new beancan. ????

602
 
Im stumped to. maybe when i moved the lot up to get at the clutch MC some air got stuck somewhere (unlikely) the last time i fixed the brakes it was simply a matter of moving the pushrod a bit to free the flow of fluid. Unlikely its slipped, but looks like im going to have to do the same again. The clutch issue is entirely seperate but I couldnt see why it upset the brakes. strange. I noticed the inner and outer bits in the can NZ, thanks for pointing out whats what. Gives me a better idea with what im doing!

Any clutch experts in here then? S3 box mated to a Rover V8 (old P5) in a S2a LTWT

the bite point is high and sometimes i can let the clutch fully out and it wount grab a gear for a second or 2. seems worse when warm. it will also tap my foot 2-3times lightly just before the gear engages. strangely it seems fine when the engine is cold. I dont understand how this could be.

The PO had the clutch changed about 100mile ago but it was sat for 12months. Have used it up and down the street in 1st/2nd, its got no MOT so cant take it far (cant take it anywhere really!) just trying to run it all back in, but maybe its the adjustment? enough babble, if anyone recognises the symptoms let me know.

G
 
Hi,

Try driving a short distance with the reservoir filler cap removed .... it quicker and easier than sticking a pin into the air bleed hole.

Apply your brakes, release, grab hold of the pedal and see if you can pull it backwards. Pedal should dangly freely, with just a smidgen of free play.

My first impression is that your clutch hydraulics are not returning, USUALLY this suggests a blocked pipe between master cylinder and slave. (Fifty years ago, I might have queried if somebody had put Lockheed fluid into a Girling system. This would make the rubber seals swell up and sieze. Not likely to happen today ...... but keep it in mind. It could also affect your brakes. BUT UNLIKELY).

Er, are all four brakes binding? If just one, or both rears,suspect the flexible hose.

Good luck.

602
 
cheers for that, very interesting. It is on all 4 brakes. strangley, it all returned to normal yesterday but after warming it up and driving it in and out ofthe garage it went back to the way it was. My theory is the brakes are fine (I changed all hoses) and due to them working ok for sometime, They may just need adjusting again. Clutch hydraulics not returning would prob cause all my symptoms, stuck pushrod? Its not evident from the pedal action though, because that all functions as it should, its not sluggish either.

I will try to get another good look today, return the brakes back to normal and then focus on the clutch.

thanks for your help, any other ideas welcome!

G
 
Back
Top