axle axle axle

has anyone had problems with a axle leaking from diff cover its gone pourus (is that how yer spell it) can i get a new cover and weld it in, or is it a case of a new axle"!!!!!!!!!!!!

this is a common fault with disco's. the replacements are cheap to buy but expensive to get welded in, or a right bastard to weld in yourself. how big is the leak, mine was leaking from just below the filler hole, i patched mine with chemical metal and its been fine since, the first thing you need to do is establish where and how big the leak is. clean it off with gunk or similar(i use brake cleaner) wire brush the whole diff pan,once you have found the leak, drain out the diff oil, clean it again, mix the chemical metal and apply it making sure you push it in firmly where the leak is, smooth it over so it doesn't look a bollocks and leave it for a couple of hours. once is cured put a coat of paint over it so that it blends in with the diff, fill the oil and replace the plug. hey presto, costs about a tenner, job done


**** me i feel like a haynes manual at times

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**** me i feel like a haynes manual at times

is yer missisusss's cooking that bad?

any decent welding engineering shop should be able to arc weld the damaged area, in situ.

the problem with welding the existing pan is that the metal is too thin as it has rotted , hence the chemical metal remedy

hi yella disco read me feed backs at 5 this morning and what you say i did that yesterday and it has worked how long for i dont know the pan is rotten not worth welding will take the axle of and put new pan in when the missus wants to go shopping like yer say its goner be a pain in the arse

i done mine over 12 months ago and it aint started leaking yet

well chaps i been out an had a look and me axle aint leaking now bought meself a bit of time while i get a recondition one now i have a rumble to investigat which is a mystery has i cant find anything ,it only happens at 65mph but ont go of whenn i go faster it just gets worse ,yeah i know dont go over 65

yella disco said:

**** me i feel like a haynes manual at times

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Not something to brag about I think!

garymoores said:

yeah i know dont go over 65

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What!!!! Yours goes over 65 LOL!!!!!

cause it goes over 65 downhill wind behind me in neautral hand brake of

Getting back to the question, I tried to fix mine at the weekend and made a right arse of it. I tried to use that fibreglass stuff where you get a fibre mat and then you dab resin all over it. It was either a **** idea or I made a hash of it. Anyway once I was done, it leaked worse than when I started About 200 mls leaked out while I was at work!

Attempt 2 was started earlier when I got home. I'll let you know how it turns out.
So far I have:

1. Drained the oil.
2. Replaced the filler and drain plugs
3. Blasted off all the crap, rust and oil that was all over it, especially round the bottom where it leaks.
4. Inspected it and found 3 or 4 small holes in a nasty looking rusty patch.
5. Painted some of that Ku-rust stuff on it (dunno if it works, hopefully can't do any harm)
6. Used bridging compound to build up the bottom and hopefully seal all the holes.

My plan now is to get another layer of the compound on then paint all the metal bits with red oxide and then paint it all black hammerite.

It should work, right?

why oh why oh why don't you people listen....... fibreglass???? bridging compound?????? i clearly stated earlier on this thread to use chemical metal ffs will you read properly

well i did mine with the magic metal and it works diff oil dont seem to effect it fibreglass looks so messy and sounds like hard work

yella disco said:

why oh why oh why don't you people listen....... fibreglass???? bridging compound?????? i clearly stated earlier on this thread to use chemical metal ffs will you read properly

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Yeah I know I brought it on myself... I asked for chemical metal and the guy in the car shop looked at me as if I was crazy then pointed me at the body fillers, fibreglass etc. I saw a picture of a boat on the fibreglass packet and thought boats ain't supposed to leak. At that point I needed you there yella to give me a slap to wake me up.

What I should have done is walked out and found a better shop.

Yes when a car shop doesn't know what chemical metal is, your probaly going to get yourself into trouble.

Not the best place to buy it, price wise but: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Chemical-Metal-Fills-Joins-seals-super-strong-in-10-min_W0QQitemZ6065368773QQcategoryZ20594QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

or

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/sea/searchresults.jsp?_dyncharset=UTF-8&howMany=5&searchText=chemical+metal

although I don't like the fact that their photo shows an apparently used tube, maybe they used it to fix the tripod before they took the photo.

Ta for the links, now I see what I was supposed to get! I think the bridging compound has done the trick though but I'll use this stuff next time.

Just reading thru this post (and chuckling a bit) I plan to do this to mine this weekend. Just awaiting a haynes manual (TD5 book now out!) to explain how to drain the diff and refill it.

I've obviously knocked my diff at some stage because it's now 'weeping' a bit of oil at the bottom where the metal seam has rolled back ever so slightly, opening up the seal. Did buy a diff guard from eBay but it was too small (defender & TDi sized) even though I asked the fool.

Can you get the diff oil from 'normal' places like Halfords or Motor World, or do I need to go somewhere a bit more tricky to get some? Any important things to remember when draining and replacing the diff oil? (Eg, oil should be hot or not? Easiest way to fill etc?)

How do you check the levels in the first place??

Thanks