Adjustable Master cylinder push rod ?

Did I read somewhere that the push rod on a 110 master cylinder is adjustable?
cant get the pedal up an mine, I've bled it and the brakes are spot on but pedal low and newish servo too.

please help..

It should self adjust i.e. as the pedal comes up more fluid from the tank goes into the cyliner and allows it to fully return. There's a spring on mine that helps it (90). Next time you push the pedal down it has more fluid in the system, and hence come back upto the top. There is always a little bit of play as the (pads) and shoes have to come away from the (disc)/drums.

Also may want to check that both rear drums are free when the pedal comes up as if one is stuck on this would explain some of it as well.

jamescronin said:

It should self adjust i.e. as the pedal comes up more fluid from the tank goes into the cyliner and allows it to fully return. There's a spring on mine that helps it (90). Next time you push the pedal down it has more fluid in the system, and hence come back upto the top. There is always a little bit of play as the (pads) and shoes have to come away from the (disc)/drums.

Also may want to check that both rear drums are free when the pedal comes up as if one is stuck on this would explain some of it as well.

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The drums are sorted with new shoes and adjusters and the pedal doesn't pump up. It just goes half way down before the brakes come on.
It has new calipers and pads, new discs, and the drums are adjusted up, I cant seem to bleed anymore air out, having said that the pedal is ok and goes to the same position at every application, it's just a bit low. Maybe a Land Rover thing.
New fluid as well so just wondered if it was wear in the actuating rod or something between the top of the pedal and the cylinder.

Just had a thought, The calipers are off a later model with slightly bigger pistons, are the master cylinders the same size on a 1992 CSW as a 1984 110 ??



.
Ta

ey up! mine always needed a fair distance before the brakes came onl, bt ive got rear discs now sorted

Your later calipers arn't dual circuit or summin daft are they?

boydy1989 said:

ey up! mine always needed a fair distance before the brakes came onl, bt ive got rear discs now sorted

Your later calipers arn't dual circuit or summin daft are they?

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Hi mate.
no, calipers are single circuit and off a 1992 110 CSW so bigger pistons.
Any way, I leaned in today and pressed the brakes by hand, engine off and they seemed fine. Maybe it's just me then or praps the rear bleed has sorted it.
I'll chance it for mot, just a few bits of interior to finish round the tunnel as it's been bodged in the past. Wont notice my bodges then.
Fuses to secure as well, not as easy as it seems, I'll have to modify the plate that held the old type fuse boxes and it's a bit fiddley on there. hey ho.
205 tracking is looking less and less likely this year but you never know once this moneypit dog of a Land Rover is done I can get on with some propper twiddling.

cant wait! at this rate though ill have my own monster to track with you, im buildin me a 145bhp VVC metro

boydy1989 said:

cant wait! at this rate though ill have my own monster to track with you, im buildin me a 145bhp VVC metro

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145 is NOT goin ta be enough but if you build the suspension to Metro Turbo spec it might go round corners.....just

Best watch what I'm sayin cause I cant afford suspension tweaks and I've never driven my Pug so I dont know how it drives, might be a right amimal, then I'll have to rely on straight lines but not many straight lines on Anglesey eh.
The Mi is sposed to be 170 ish with the cams but it's on injection so I might be disapointed.
Look forward to a blat round with you in the mirrors anyway.

sod metro turbo spec....

im buying assported bits to go completely independant!
Ive got more valves to individualise each corner, will be getting some metro GTi hocks for now, metro GTi ARB's front and rear, with the spheres pumped up to a higher pressure with the arms machined down so that its standard height (for road rallies) but much stiffer.

Then im thinking of making some solid ally mounts for the subframes, instead of the rubber ones, and fitting some slightly wider wheels

all on a completely free car!

boydy1989 said:

Then im thinking of making some solid ally mounts for the subframes, instead of the rubber ones, and fitting some slightly wider wheels

all on a completely free car!

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Now THAT'S a good idea, the solid mounts will make a lot of difference, You could use a few big washers as a cheapo way of doin it.

ive already made friends with the nice fellows who run the machine shop at the university, for reasons like this