Disco 2 ACE Pump pipe replacement

Looks like they are getting rusty and there is a bit of a leak where the compression fittings are.

Tightened up for now but I think I need to replace all the way back to pump.

What is the best thing to do here?

New metal pipes?
Hydraulic hoses?
New short hoses and cut a bit further up?

MJI said:

Looks like they are getting rusty and there is a bit of a leak where the compression fittings are.

Tightened up for now but I think I need to replace all the way back to pump.

What is the best thing to do here?

New metal pipes?
Hydraulic hoses?
New short hoses and cut a bit further up?

Click to expand...

Hi if you already have modified valve block then I would go with hydraulic hose that's what I did when the top front hose went on mine just changed it all to hydraulic hose much easier plus trying to get new metal pipes routed an to seal would be a nightmare

lynx45 said:

Hi if you already have modified valve block then I would go with hydraulic hose that's what I did when the top front hose went on mine just changed it all to hydraulic hose much easier plus trying to get new metal pipes routed an to seal would be a nightmare

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What about the damper?

MJI said:

What about the damper?

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Do you mean the front pipe from the pump to block with the valve in it ? If so you can take pipe off and get hydraulic pipe company to join it for you with hydraulic compression joint

lynx45 said:

Do you mean the front pipe from the pump to block with the valve in it ? If so you can take pipe off and get hydraulic pipe company to join it for you with hydraulic compression joint

Click to expand...

Where in the pipe is it?

MJI said:

Where in the pipe is it?

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Just below the pump I had mine joined just where it sits by the steering box if you take out battery and tray it's easy to tighten but to remove pipe people say you have to remove rad but if you take off the rad cowl 2x Phillips screws on top and lift out you can see the route of front pipe also take off o/s/f wheel and by the front ram the plastic guard it's awkward but saves messing with draining the rad and removing it don't forget you need new dowty washers x2 14mm where the banjo bolt (19mm spanner ) goes into the pump release the ace/power steering resivior for better excess you just cut out the old pipe work either join to modified valve block or use hydraulic compression joint

Tempted to whip out rad as it is leaking anyway.

Got a pile of Dowty washer, not sure on size.

I MAY be OK for now as one compression fitting was slightly loose, 1/4 turn to tighten up.

I did have a block leak, slight tighten fixed it, rear pair OK was one of the front pairs.

I wonder if it was because I did not use a swivel on the pump repair sections from block to wheel arch

MJI said:

Tempted to whip out rad as it is leaking anyway.

Got a pile of Dowty washer, not sure on size.

I MAY be OK for now as one compression fitting was slightly loose, 1/4 turn to tighten up.

I did have a block leak, slight tighten fixed it, rear pair OK was one of the front pairs.

I wonder if it was because I did not use a swivel on the pump repair sections from block to wheel arch

Click to expand...

Hi the way I converted pipe to hose was I kept the original ram pipe banjos and pump banjo just got hydraulic company to cut old pipe off and rejoin with hydraulic hose lot easier

I have a modded block

MJI said:

I have a modded block

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Hi if you have modified valve block then I would cut out old pipe work though keep it your going to need it when you take to hydraulic hose company ask them to make up new hose to length keeping original banjo angles ask them to join the hose to them also with compression ( hydraulic) joined to the front valve pipe keeping original pipe to the pump and the same to the resivior if you go to d2bc in the technical there is a plan of where which pipes go to