90 DT clutch problem

I have the strangest problem. The clutch pedal all of a sudden did not
want to go all the way down and I could not put the LR into gear. I
found out that the master cylinder was not causing the problem and I
took out the slave cylinder and it seemed ok. But the lever that the
slave cylinder pushes onto inside the bell housing seemed to be very
far inside.

I not sure how the lever and the release bearing work together so Im
not sure if it supposed to come more out as the cylinder releases the
pressure on it. Does it travel far to release the clutch or is it only
a few millimeters?

As I dont see any problem with the cylinders I would really like to
hear speculations on what this could be. I would really like to avoid
taking the engine out or messing with the gearbox.

Thanks!

Oli, 1988 90 2.5 DT.

In message <[email protected]>, Olafur
Agust <[email protected]> writes

>As I dont see any problem with the cylinders I would really like to
>hear speculations on what this could be. I would really like to avoid
>taking the engine out or messing with the gearbox.

My 110 Defender has just done the same. I'm afraid it's the clutch fork
that has snapped and the only solution is a new one and entails the
gearbox out.

--
Regards
Graham Jones

Keep any purchase record you have for the pivot arm. I know of a garage that
fitted a new OEM pivot arm that wore through in a week. Therefore you need
to go back if the wear is unreasonable.


"Olafur Agust" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Graham Jones <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > In message <[email protected]>, Olafur
> > Agust <[email protected]> writes
> >
> > >As I dont see any problem with the cylinders I would really like to
> > >hear speculations on what this could be. I would really like to avoid
> > >taking the engine out or messing with the gearbox.
> >
> > My 110 Defender has just done the same. I'm afraid it's the clutch fork
> > that has snapped and the only solution is a new one and entails the
> > gearbox out.
>
> It was the clutch fork that had worn through on the pivot bolt. I had
> the engine out with a rental engine lift. Took me a few nights. A lot
> of work to change a little part...

Keep any purchase record you have for the pivot arm. I know of a garage that
fitted a new OEM pivot arm that wore through in a week. Therefore you need
to go back if the wear is unreasonable.


"Olafur Agust" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Graham Jones <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > In message <[email protected]>, Olafur
> > Agust <[email protected]> writes
> >
> > >As I dont see any problem with the cylinders I would really like to
> > >hear speculations on what this could be. I would really like to avoid
> > >taking the engine out or messing with the gearbox.
> >
> > My 110 Defender has just done the same. I'm afraid it's the clutch fork
> > that has snapped and the only solution is a new one and entails the
> > gearbox out.
>
> It was the clutch fork that had worn through on the pivot bolt. I had
> the engine out with a rental engine lift. Took me a few nights. A lot
> of work to change a little part...

The message <[email protected]>
from [email protected] (Olafur Agust) contains these words:

> Graham Jones <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
> > In message <[email protected]>, Olafur
> > Agust <[email protected]> writes
> >
> > >As I dont see any problem with the cylinders I would really like to
> > >hear speculations on what this could be. I would really like to avoid
> > >taking the engine out or messing with the gearbox.
> >
> > My 110 Defender has just done the same. I'm afraid it's the clutch fork
> > that has snapped and the only solution is a new one and entails the
> > gearbox out.

> It was the clutch fork that had worn through on the pivot bolt. I had
> the engine out with a rental engine lift. Took me a few nights. A lot
> of work to change a little part...

>>> It is not necessary to take the gear box out, if the box is unbolted
>>> so as you can slide it back, there's just enough room to replace the
>>> clutch Etc.Dave

--
Amateur Radio Call Sign M1BTI, Located in IO-83-TK, Manchester. England.
Chairman of Trafford Radio Group, G0TRG/M1BBP Located at UMIST, Manchester.

Graham Jones <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> In message <[email protected]>, Olafur
> Agust <[email protected]> writes
>
> >As I dont see any problem with the cylinders I would really like to
> >hear speculations on what this could be. I would really like to avoid
> >taking the engine out or messing with the gearbox.
>
> My 110 Defender has just done the same. I'm afraid it's the clutch fork
> that has snapped and the only solution is a new one and entails the
> gearbox out.

It was the clutch fork that had worn through on the pivot bolt. I had
the engine out with a rental engine lift. Took me a few nights. A lot
of work to change a little part...

Keep any purchase record you have for the pivot arm. I know of a garage that
fitted a new OEM pivot arm that wore through in a week. Therefore you need
to go back if the wear is unreasonable.


"Olafur Agust" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Graham Jones <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > In message <[email protected]>, Olafur
> > Agust <[email protected]> writes
> >
> > >As I dont see any problem with the cylinders I would really like to
> > >hear speculations on what this could be. I would really like to avoid
> > >taking the engine out or messing with the gearbox.
> >
> > My 110 Defender has just done the same. I'm afraid it's the clutch fork
> > that has snapped and the only solution is a new one and entails the
> > gearbox out.
>
> It was the clutch fork that had worn through on the pivot bolt. I had
> the engine out with a rental engine lift. Took me a few nights. A lot
> of work to change a little part...