90 Body Cappings / Mid Rail Replacement - How easy?

J

Jon

Guest

• Sep 14, 2004

• #1

Its now time to try to make my 90 hardtop a bit less like a cullinder
and more like a leak free (dont laugh) 90. Every time it rains i have
a pond in the back!

Both my Body Cappings / Mid Rails have rusted and need welding up or
replacing - dont know which till i get them off.

So, how easy is it to remove the upper body of a hartop to get to the
rails?

I presume i need to remove the rear door and cab headlining and unbolt
over the windscreen and the 6 or so bolts along the length of the 90.
Do the front doors need to come off (if so may as well replace the
hindges at the same time)?

Will the side pannels and roof come off in one piece? If so how heavy
is it? Will 2 people lift it off without any bother?

One concern i do have is that if i replace the mid rails, in solving
that problem, how easy is it to get the thing watertight again? The
last thing I want is a waterfall down the inside of the windscreen!!!

thanks
Jon

 

D

David G. Bell

Guest

• Sep 14, 2004

• #2

On Tuesday, in article
<[email protected]>
[email protected] "Jon" wrote:

> Its now time to try to make my 90 hardtop a bit less like a cullinder
> and more like a leak free (dont laugh) 90. Every time it rains i have
> a pond in the back!
>
> Both my Body Cappings / Mid Rails have rusted and need welding up or
> replacing - dont know which till i get them off.
>
> So, how easy is it to remove the upper body of a hartop to get to the
> rails?

My experience was with a Series III, and there are differences.

> I presume i need to remove the rear door and cab headlining and unbolt
> over the windscreen and the 6 or so bolts along the length of the 90.
> Do the front doors need to come off (if so may as well replace the
> hindges at the same time)?

The front doors can stay on.

> Will the side pannels and roof come off in one piece? If so how heavy
> is it? Will 2 people lift it off without any bother?

Three people would be better, one at the back and one at each side door.
Two people can carry it, it isn't heavy, but three will give you better
control and an easier carry clear. On a Series hard top, there are
several small brackets bolted to tub and top, but the main fittings use
the sockets for the hood sticks.

> One concern i do have is that if i replace the mid rails, in solving
> that problem, how easy is it to get the thing watertight again? The
> last thing I want is a waterfall down the inside of the windscreen!!!

There should be rubber sealing strips.

--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

"History shows that the Singularity started when Sir Tim Berners-Lee
was bitten by a radioactive spider."

 

M

Martin \(Wirral, UK\)

Guest

• Sep 14, 2004

• #3

If you decide on replacing them, make sure you can source the replacement
parts before you start.
I have been told by a local parts supplier that every they have placed with
land rover for capping, land rover have supplied 2 left handed cappings and
they cant get a pair.


"Jon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Its now time to try to make my 90 hardtop a bit less like a cullinder
> and more like a leak free (dont laugh) 90. Every time it rains i have
> a pond in the back!
>
> Both my Body Cappings / Mid Rails have rusted and need welding up or
> replacing - dont know which till i get them off.
>
> So, how easy is it to remove the upper body of a hartop to get to the
> rails?
>
> I presume i need to remove the rear door and cab headlining and unbolt
> over the windscreen and the 6 or so bolts along the length of the 90.
> Do the front doors need to come off (if so may as well replace the
> hindges at the same time)?
>
> Will the side pannels and roof come off in one piece? If so how heavy
> is it? Will 2 people lift it off without any bother?
>
> One concern i do have is that if i replace the mid rails, in solving
> that problem, how easy is it to get the thing watertight again? The
> last thing I want is a waterfall down the inside of the windscreen!!!
>
> thanks
> Jon
>

 

J

Jon

Guest

• Sep 14, 2004

• #4

Why not use "proper" galv series II/III cappings?

Jon B

"Martin (Wirral, UK)" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you decide on replacing them, make sure you can source the replacement
> parts before you start.
> I have been told by a local parts supplier that every they have placed
> with land rover for capping, land rover have supplied 2 left handed
> cappings and they cant get a pair.
>
>
> "Jon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Its now time to try to make my 90 hardtop a bit less like a cullinder
>> and more like a leak free (dont laugh) 90. Every time it rains i have
>> a pond in the back!
>>
>> Both my Body Cappings / Mid Rails have rusted and need welding up or
>> replacing - dont know which till i get them off.
>>
>> So, how easy is it to remove the upper body of a hartop to get to the
>> rails?
>>
>> I presume i need to remove the rear door and cab headlining and unbolt
>> over the windscreen and the 6 or so bolts along the length of the 90.
>> Do the front doors need to come off (if so may as well replace the
>> hindges at the same time)?
>>
>> Will the side pannels and roof come off in one piece? If so how heavy
>> is it? Will 2 people lift it off without any bother?
>>
>> One concern i do have is that if i replace the mid rails, in solving
>> that problem, how easy is it to get the thing watertight again? The
>> last thing I want is a waterfall down the inside of the windscreen!!!
>>
>> thanks
>> Jon
>>
>
>

 

W

William MacLeod

Guest

• Sep 15, 2004

• #5

Martin (Wirral, UK) wrote:

> If you decide on replacing them, make sure you can source the replacement
> parts before you start.
> I have been told by a local parts supplier that every they have placed
> with land rover for capping, land rover have supplied 2 left handed
> cappings and they cant get a pair.

A pal of mine had exactly the same happen to him when he ordered a pair from
a LR dealer as well. They did change them for him however.

It's easy to get ones that are structurally OK regalved though.

Regards

William MacLeod

 

J

Jon

Guest

• Sep 15, 2004

• #6

Is it only series II/III ones that are galv? Are 90 and 110 ones mild
steel? If so will the series ones be a straight fit without too much
modification?

If genuine ones are steel, do Britpart or Allmakes4x4 do galv ones?

Thanks
Jon



On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 22:15:06 +0000 (UTC), "Jon"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Why not use "proper" galv series II/III cappings?
>
>Jon B
>
>"Martin (Wirral, UK)" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> If you decide on replacing them, make sure you can source the replacement
>> parts before you start.
>> I have been told by a local parts supplier that every they have placed
>> with land rover for capping, land rover have supplied 2 left handed
>> cappings and they cant get a pair.
>>
>>
>> "Jon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> Its now time to try to make my 90 hardtop a bit less like a cullinder
>>> and more like a leak free (dont laugh) 90. Every time it rains i have
>>> a pond in the back!
>>>
>>> Both my Body Cappings / Mid Rails have rusted and need welding up or
>>> replacing - dont know which till i get them off.
>>>
>>> So, how easy is it to remove the upper body of a hartop to get to the
>>> rails?
>>>
>>> I presume i need to remove the rear door and cab headlining and unbolt
>>> over the windscreen and the 6 or so bolts along the length of the 90.
>>> Do the front doors need to come off (if so may as well replace the
>>> hindges at the same time)?
>>>
>>> Will the side pannels and roof come off in one piece? If so how heavy
>>> is it? Will 2 people lift it off without any bother?
>>>
>>> One concern i do have is that if i replace the mid rails, in solving
>>> that problem, how easy is it to get the thing watertight again? The
>>> last thing I want is a waterfall down the inside of the windscreen!!!
>>>
>>> thanks
>>> Jon
>>>
>>
>>
>

 

G

Gordon

Guest

• Sep 15, 2004

• #7

The front and back doors can stay on, but it is a bit easier when
lifting the roof off if the rear door is off.
Upper body is held on by fixings round the windscreen and then two
bolts each side (one just behind the front door and one in the rear
corner) plus a bracket either side of the rear door.
I'm told by those who have been there that the cappings are glued on
as well as riveted and are thus a right pig to get off. Not so much of
a problem if you're replacing them, (just butcher them off) I guess,
but a serious pain if you're looking to re-use them.
Gordon

 

D

Dave White

Guest

• Sep 15, 2004

• #8

In <[email protected]> Jon wrote:
> Is it only series II/III ones that are galv? Are 90 and 110 ones mild
> steel? If so will the series ones be a straight fit without too much
> modification?

No, 90s and 110 were both fitted with galvanised items well into the
1990s.

Series ones will not fit as they are the wrong length.

> If genuine ones are steel, do Britpart or Allmakes4x4 do galv ones?

I'd guess that Britpart will do them, IIRC they are not all that
expensive. According to EPC you're looking at anything between 30 and 80
quid a side depending on model and year.

cheers

Dave W.
http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/

 

J

Jon

Guest

• Sep 29, 2004

• #9

OK, began to tackle the roof at the weekend. Got all the bolts out
and persuaded the back to come appart withe relative ease. BUT what
an earth holds body and sole together above the windscreen?

I removed the two screws and all (fom memory) 6 bolts but she still
wouldnt shift.

In the end I left the roof on and removed the side pannel only.

Good news is that the rails dont need to be replaced as the rust had
blown the paint and water was getting under the paint and inside
rather than through rusty holes.

Now, just a simple case of grinding as much rust off as possible,
Jenolite Paint (2 coats) to bare metal, fiberglass pack over the rusty
area, dress down and repaint - cost about £10 + paint.

Job done... till next time!

On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 09:20:09 +0100, Jon
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Its now time to try to make my 90 hardtop a bit less like a cullinder
>and more like a leak free (dont laugh) 90. Every time it rains i have
>a pond in the back!
>
>Both my Body Cappings / Mid Rails have rusted and need welding up or
>replacing - dont know which till i get them off.
>
>So, how easy is it to remove the upper body of a hartop to get to the
>rails?
>
>I presume i need to remove the rear door and cab headlining and unbolt
>over the windscreen and the 6 or so bolts along the length of the 90.
>Do the front doors need to come off (if so may as well replace the
>hindges at the same time)?
>
>Will the side pannels and roof come off in one piece? If so how heavy
>is it? Will 2 people lift it off without any bother?
>
>One concern i do have is that if i replace the mid rails, in solving
>that problem, how easy is it to get the thing watertight again? The
>last thing I want is a waterfall down the inside of the windscreen!!!
>
>thanks
>Jon