60,000 maint

Hi folks,

My 2001 Disco II is in the shop today. Dealer called telling me my plugs
and cables are shot and I need a tune-up. This is the first major repair
I've needed. I bought the truck used 3 years ago with 22,000 miles. I now
have 66,000 mile on it. The dealer pointed out I am due for the 60,000 mile
maintenance. I could have bundled all of this in today for $1,200. Buy the
sound of the repairs I'm getting today, they would have done the majority of
this under the maintenance, changing the plugs tune-up, air filters etc,
etc. The majority of the cost of my repair are replacing the spark plug
cables, which apparently is time consuming since I will be getting billed
for 3 hours of labor. I consider myself some what of a "do-it yourselfer"
I maintain mine and my wifes truck, brake pads, rotors and routine oil
changes. The 60,000 mile maintenance requires fluid change of the
transmission fluid and differentials. How hard is this? Should I have paid
the extra $400 to have the deal change these fluids?

If anyone has done this, I'd love a quick "how-to" or things to look for.

Thanks,

MDH

"admin" <[email protected]> wrote >
> If anyone has done this, I'd love a quick "how-to" or things to look for.
>

It is easier and more pleasant than changing a babies nappy [diaper]. Just
dump the oil from the drain plugs and refill to the level plug or dipstick.
Two gearboxes and two axles and perhaps the front swivel housings if yours
are oil filled. Most of this used to described in the operators book but as
the population has become less intelligent they may have dropped it out from
latest editions. I would guess the fuel and air filter needs changing at
this service as well as the engine oil and filter.

Huw

ThanksThanks, Matthew D. Hosford System/Network Engineer DNS-LLC
www.britsys.com 1.800.459.5996 option 3 Fax 919.653.5019
"Huw" <hedydd[nospam]@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "admin" <[email protected]> wrote >
> > If anyone has done this, I'd love a quick "how-to" or things to look
for.
> >
>
> It is easier and more pleasant than changing a babies nappy [diaper]. Just
> dump the oil from the drain plugs and refill to the level plug or
dipstick.
> Two gearboxes and two axles and perhaps the front swivel housings if yours
> are oil filled. Most of this used to described in the operators book but
as
> the population has become less intelligent they may have dropped it out
from
> latest editions. I would guess the fuel and air filter needs changing at
> this service as well as the engine oil and filter.
>
> Huw
>
>

Huw,

Thanks for the response. The oil and air filter will be done today as well.

I've looked through my book an it does not have any reference on doing this.
I do see where I need to use ATF Dexron III for the automatic gearbox, and
API GL5MTI Fully synthetic -75W/90R for the Transfer gearbox

How about synthetic oil for the engine. I believe the dealer says this is a
"no-no" because of the V8

Huw wrote:

> It is easier and more pleasant than changing a babies nappy [diaper]. Just
> dump the oil from the drain plugs and refill to the level plug or dipstick.
> Two gearboxes and two axles and perhaps the front swivel housings if yours
> are oil filled. Most of this used to described in the operators book but as
> the population has become less intelligent they may have dropped it out from
> latest editions. I would guess the fuel and air filter needs changing at
> this service as well as the engine oil and filter.

Huw

Do LR change the trans filter a well when they do a fluid change? My
professional opinion is that it should be done, and I never receive any
complaints about the additional cost of doing this.


--
EMB

ThanksThanks, Matthew D. Hosford System/Network Engineer DNS-LLC
www.britsys.com 1.800.459.5996 option 3 Fax 919.653.5019
"EMB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Huw wrote:
>
> > It is easier and more pleasant than changing a babies nappy [diaper].
Just
> > dump the oil from the drain plugs and refill to the level plug or
dipstick.
> > Two gearboxes and two axles and perhaps the front swivel housings if
yours
> > are oil filled. Most of this used to described in the operators book but
as
> > the population has become less intelligent they may have dropped it out
from
> > latest editions. I would guess the fuel and air filter needs changing at
> > this service as well as the engine oil and filter.
>
> Huw
>
> Do LR change the trans filter a well when they do a fluid change? My
> professional opinion is that it should be done, and I never receive any
> complaints about the additional cost of doing this.
>
>
> --
> EMB

I do not know. I was only told about the fluid replacemnet

"MDH" <matt-at-matthosford.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> ThanksThanks, Matthew D. Hosford System/Network Engineer DNS-LLC
> www.britsys.com 1.800.459.5996 option 3 Fax 919.653.5019
> "Huw" <hedydd[nospam]@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "admin" <[email protected]> wrote >
>> > If anyone has done this, I'd love a quick "how-to" or things to look
> for.
>> >
>>
>> It is easier and more pleasant than changing a babies nappy [diaper].
>> Just
>> dump the oil from the drain plugs and refill to the level plug or
> dipstick.
>> Two gearboxes and two axles and perhaps the front swivel housings if
>> yours
>> are oil filled. Most of this used to described in the operators book but
> as
>> the population has become less intelligent they may have dropped it out
> from
>> latest editions. I would guess the fuel and air filter needs changing at
>> this service as well as the engine oil and filter.
>>
>> Huw
>>
>>
>
> Huw,
>
> Thanks for the response. The oil and air filter will be done today as
> well.
>
> I've looked through my book an it does not have any reference on doing
> this.
> I do see where I need to use ATF Dexron III for the automatic gearbox, and
> API GL5MTI Fully synthetic -75W/90R for the Transfer gearbox

No need for anything exotic in the transfer case. You can just as
effectively use engine oil. See my other post.

>
> How about synthetic oil for the engine. I believe the dealer says this is
> a
> "no-no" because of the V8
>
>

Just use whatever it recommends in your documentation. In this case you
don't want something too light a viscosity.

Huw

"EMB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Huw wrote:
>
>> It is easier and more pleasant than changing a babies nappy [diaper].
>> Just dump the oil from the drain plugs and refill to the level plug or
>> dipstick. Two gearboxes and two axles and perhaps the front swivel
>> housings if yours are oil filled. Most of this used to described in the
>> operators book but as the population has become less intelligent they may
>> have dropped it out from latest editions. I would guess the fuel and air
>> filter needs changing at this service as well as the engine oil and
>> filter.
>
> Huw
>
> Do LR change the trans filter a well when they do a fluid change? My
> professional opinion is that it should be done, and I never receive any
> complaints about the additional cost of doing this.
>

I don't believe so. The filter in those ZF boxes is not meant to be an
ultrafine filter. It is a gauze only and I have never heard of one restrict
the oil flow so it does not need cleaning in any normal circumstance. It
won't do any harm, may do some good but probably never actually needs doing.

Huw

On or around Thu, 3 Nov 2005 14:23:59 -0500, "admin" <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

> The majority of the cost of my repair are replacing the spark plug
>cables, which apparently is time consuming since I will be getting billed
>for 3 hours of labor.

WTF? which engine?

I've never taken more than about 20 minutes to change a set of leads on a
v8. I've never done a "thor" though, possibly they're harder to do?

normal V8s with a distributor, half an hour max, and that's taking the ****,
really.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"There is plenty of time to win this game, and to thrash the Spaniards
too" Sir Francis Drake (1540? - 1596) Attr. saying when the Armarda was
sighted, 20th July 1588

The filter in the autobox is generally changed at 48,000. Some people have
it done at 24,000. It's a pain on the V8's as you have to remove the Y pipe,
the g/box crossmember etc etc. This can push up the cost. The actual
changing is easy

--
Neil

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Thu, 3 Nov 2005 14:23:59 -0500, "admin"
> <[email protected]>
> enlightened us thusly:
>
>> The majority of the cost of my repair are replacing the spark plug
>>cables, which apparently is time consuming since I will be getting billed
>>for 3 hours of labor.
>
> WTF? which engine?
>
> I've never taken more than about 20 minutes to change a set of leads on a
> v8. I've never done a "thor" though, possibly they're harder to do?

Oh, yes indeedy, matey!

> normal V8s with a distributor, half an hour max, and that's taking the
> ****,
> really.

On the "thor" engine, fitted to a disco II, there is no clearance to get to
the coil packs or leads without removing the upper half of the inlet
manifold! Better by design, eh? It's not as daunting as it first looks, a
simple case of unclipping and releasing all hoses (ditch the stupid factory
hose clips and fit proper jubilee type clips) then use 2 nuts locked
together to undo the water pipe securing stud on the side of the manifold,
reach in the back and feel for the 2 8mm headed bolts on the coil brackets
and remove with the aid of a small 1/4" universal joint. Remove the 4 long
and 2 short 10mm headed bolts securing the manifold upper half, ease the
front end up and forwards to unhook the rear from under the coil pack
brackets. This will then give you just enough access to replace the leads.
Refitting is, as they say, the reversal of removal but remember you'll need
a new upper-to-lower manifold gasket at around £20 UK, and it makes
refitting a whole lot easier if you file a slight chamfer on the sharp edges
of the 2 lugs that the coil pack brackets attach to, just to ease their way
in. Genuine plug leads are around £85 UK and have a different fitting at the
coil end than normal leads. AFAIK, no-one as yet does aftermarket leads with
the correct end fitting design. The job ought to take around 1.5 - 2 hours,
not the 3 hours they are claiming.
I've now got these down to a fine art, and can remove the manifold in 20min!
(Comes with a mis-behaving lpg system on my own motor!)
FWIW, I'd replace the std plugs with NGK Irridium tipped ones (not
Platinum's), gapped to 32 thou'. These plugs will last virtually the life of
the engine, and gapping them down slightly reduces the firing voltage
slightly, which helps the life of the 2 coil packs and the leads. They all
live in a very poor environment, condensation and extremes of heat, with the
coil packs having known insulation failure issues. One of mine failed at
28,000miles, I've replaced a lot for customers at anything from 32-80,000
miles and now if one fails, I replace both due to the issues of getting to
them!
Badger.

On or around Fri, 4 Nov 2005 10:23:43 +0000 (UTC), "Badger"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>
>"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On or around Thu, 3 Nov 2005 14:23:59 -0500, "admin"
>> <[email protected]>
>> enlightened us thusly:
>>
>>> The majority of the cost of my repair are replacing the spark plug
>>>cables, which apparently is time consuming since I will be getting billed
>>>for 3 hours of labor.
>>
>> WTF? which engine?
>>
>> I've never taken more than about 20 minutes to change a set of leads on a
>> v8. I've never done a "thor" though, possibly they're harder to do?
>
>Oh, yes indeedy, matey!
>

Yet another case of designers being a bunch of prats. It should be
obligatory for car designers (or at least those concerned with the
mechanical side) to do 6 months in a busy workshop repairing other
designers' work... That way we wouldn't end up with stupid situations like
this where a 20 minute job takes 3 hours.

Mind you, got a quote from the LR dealer in Ipswich for replacing a 300 TDi
vacuum pump, a matter of 15 minutes maximum in a properly equipped workshop
- quote (including the pump - 109 quid inc VAT and rush delivery for the
same unit from Paddock) came to about 350 quid. Wish I could make at least
200 quid an hour for labour. Bunch of ****-takers. Needless to say, they
didn't get the job.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Appearances: You don't really need make-up. Celebrate your authentic
face by frightening people in the street.
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Fri, 4 Nov 2005 10:23:43 +0000 (UTC), "Badger"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>
>>"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> On or around Thu, 3 Nov 2005 14:23:59 -0500, "admin"
>>> <[email protected]>
>>> enlightened us thusly:
>>>
>>>> The majority of the cost of my repair are replacing the spark plug
>>>>cables, which apparently is time consuming since I will be getting
>>>>billed
>>>>for 3 hours of labor.
>>>
>>> WTF? which engine?
>>>
>>> I've never taken more than about 20 minutes to change a set of leads on
>>> a
>>> v8. I've never done a "thor" though, possibly they're harder to do?
>>
>>Oh, yes indeedy, matey!
>>
>
> Yet another case of designers being a bunch of prats. It should be
> obligatory for car designers (or at least those concerned with the
> mechanical side) to do 6 months in a busy workshop repairing other
> designers' work... That way we wouldn't end up with stupid situations like
> this where a 20 minute job takes 3 hours.

Indeed! Underbonnet of a Ford Crown Victoria (4.6 V8, OHC) is a good
example of how twin coil packs ought to be installed, the packs are mounted
at the front of the cam covers and the leads are routed across the front and
then run backwards as required. Easy access and better basic design due to
the coils being mounted in a slightly cooler place.
FWIW, you should see some of the stupid designs that aircraft designers come
up with!

> Mind you, got a quote from the LR dealer in Ipswich for replacing a 300
> TDi
> vacuum pump, a matter of 15 minutes maximum in a properly equipped
> workshop
> - quote (including the pump - 109 quid inc VAT and rush delivery for the
> same unit from Paddock) came to about 350 quid. Wish I could make at
> least
> 200 quid an hour for labour. Bunch of ****-takers. Needless to say, they
> didn't get the job.

Hmm.. wish I could get away with charging silly prices like that as well,
but then I've no plate glass fronted showroom to support. ;-)
Badger.

In message <[email protected]>
"Badger" <[email protected]> wrote:

>
> "Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On or around Fri, 4 Nov 2005 10:23:43 +0000 (UTC), "Badger"
> > <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
> >
> >>
> >>"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >>news:[email protected]...
> >>> On or around Thu, 3 Nov 2005 14:23:59 -0500, "admin"
> >>> <[email protected]>
> >>> enlightened us thusly:
> >>>
> >>>> The majority of the cost of my repair are replacing the spark plug
> >>>>cables, which apparently is time consuming since I will be getting
> >>>>billed
> >>>>for 3 hours of labor.
> >>>
> >>> WTF? which engine?
> >>>
> >>> I've never taken more than about 20 minutes to change a set of leads on
> >>> a
> >>> v8. I've never done a "thor" though, possibly they're harder to do?
> >>
> >>Oh, yes indeedy, matey!
> >>
> >
> > Yet another case of designers being a bunch of prats. It should be
> > obligatory for car designers (or at least those concerned with the
> > mechanical side) to do 6 months in a busy workshop repairing other
> > designers' work... That way we wouldn't end up with stupid situations like
> > this where a 20 minute job takes 3 hours.
>
> Indeed! Underbonnet of a Ford Crown Victoria (4.6 V8, OHC) is a good
> example of how twin coil packs ought to be installed, the packs are mounted
> at the front of the cam covers and the leads are routed across the front and
> then run backwards as required. Easy access and better basic design due to
> the coils being mounted in a slightly cooler place.
> FWIW, you should see some of the stupid designs that aircraft designers come
> up with!
>

The placement is often not down to the feature owner (Engineer), often
the physical placement is down to the CAD operators, who are often
contract staff with no particular interest. The placement should be
reviewed before being commited, but most engineers only care if it can
be said to fit so they can sign it off. No one is interested in cost of
ownership, past lip service at reviews, particularly after the warranty
expires. There's not going be be many messing about with 10 year old
Discovery III's etc

> > Mind you, got a quote from the LR dealer in Ipswich for replacing a 300
> > TDi
> > vacuum pump, a matter of 15 minutes maximum in a properly equipped
> > workshop
> > - quote (including the pump - 109 quid inc VAT and rush delivery for the
> > same unit from Paddock) came to about 350 quid. Wish I could make at
> > least
> > 200 quid an hour for labour. Bunch of ****-takers. Needless to say, they
> > didn't get the job.
>
> Hmm.. wish I could get away with charging silly prices like that as well,
> but then I've no plate glass fronted showroom to support. ;-)
> Badger.
>
>

Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
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