300tdi clutch slave

Help!!!
After a successful day replacing the timing belt on my defender 300tdi I
decided to round it off by replacing the marginally leaky clutch slave
cylinder - what a mistake.

After fitting and bleeding I had no clutch action, so bled again. No bubbles
and still no clutch, in fact it felt rather odd as the pedal would not go to
the floor. So.......... I took the slave cylinder off again and had a wiggle
with the push rod that protrudes from the bell housing into the cylinder.
First thoughts were "this fells a bit loose" the actuating arm seemed to be
floating around rather ineffectively. Second thoughts were b****r as the
push rod detached and came out of the bell housing.

Is there the possibility that I clumsily knocked the release arm assembly
off its mechanism and is there any way of recovering my "situation" without
parting the gearbox/engine?
If I have to part the two assemblies is there enough room to work by just
stripping the rad/viscous fan and swinging the engine forward as I'm not
sure I have enough lift capacity to lift the engine up and out.

Thanks in advance for any help offered.

Dave

In message <[email protected]>, larry90
<[email protected]> writes
>Help!!!
>After a successful day replacing the timing belt on my defender 300tdi I
>decided to round it off by replacing the marginally leaky clutch slave
>cylinder - what a mistake.
>
>After fitting and bleeding I had no clutch action, so bled again. No bubbles
>and still no clutch, in fact it felt rather odd as the pedal would not go to
>the floor. So.......... I took the slave cylinder off again and had a wiggle
>with the push rod that protrudes from the bell housing into the cylinder.
>First thoughts were "this fells a bit loose" the actuating arm seemed to be
>floating around rather ineffectively. Second thoughts were b****r as the
>push rod detached and came out of the bell housing.
>
>Is there the possibility that I clumsily knocked the release arm assembly
>off its mechanism and is there any way of recovering my "situation" without
>parting the gearbox/engine?
>If I have to part the two assemblies is there enough room to work by just
>stripping the rad/viscous fan and swinging the engine forward as I'm not
>sure I have enough lift capacity to lift the engine up and out.
>
>Thanks in advance for any help offered.



It is impossible to pull the clutch fork off of the pivot by the
pushrod. The pushrod coming out is not an issue and will be held inplace
between the slave cylinder and the fork.

BUT. Sometimes the Pivot ball that the fork sits on can come out of it's
mounting hole.

Back to you non working clutch pedal.

With the cylinder removed can you push the piston back up the bore using
the finger pressure? If not then the cylinder could be siezed. Are you
100% sure the new cylinder is the right one?

Was the clutch working OK before the cylinder swap?

It could be a huge coincidence that the clutch fork has failed (ball
pushed through the middle) at the same time as fitting the cylinder.

Refit the old cylinder and see what happens then


If you do have to part gearbox and engine take the gearbox out option.

If you don't have the capacity to lift the engine up and out then you
don't have the capacity to SAFELY move it clear enough to get your hands
in the bell housing. Engine very heavy.

Hope this helps
--
Marc Draper