Cylinder head bolts:
200tdi engine (all bolts):
Stage 1............... 40 Nm or 30 lbf ft
Stage 2............... Angle-tighten through a further 60 degrees
Stage 3............... Angle-tighten through a further 60 degrees
According tae Haynes...
Hope ye can make some sense of that
does anyone know of the torque setting for a 90 tdi head bolts
another chapter from the charlesy big book of landrover fettlin
Even better tip ---- Use Tipp-ex or better, a paint marker, to put a radial line on all the head bolts after the 40 Nm step. Then you can SEE which bolts have been turned. If you lose your way with angle-tightening you can end up in a big mess as it is easy to tighten the same bolt twice. You can test torque, but angle-tightening has its pitfalls.
You can then cheat by angle-tightening by eye using a protractor lying on the head. The time saved is amazing. On a 200tdi all the paint lines should point in the same direction when you are finished.
I've done two 300tdi heads in the past week using this method. Works for V8s and TD5 as they all use angle-tightening.
Remember, the TORQUE on the head bolts is not what saves the head gasket from blowing. That is achieved by the TENSION on the head bolts caused by the torque acting on the threaded ends of the bolts. The TENSION clamps the head down to the block. If the threads are all clean and dry, the clamping force will be the LEAST it can be for that tightening process. If some MOLY lube is used on the threads, the clamping force will be more or less DOUBLED, just like that. This may be one explanation for the fact that when some people do head gaskets they don't blow again. Even a smear of copper-grease adds 50% or more to the clamping force.
Doesn't cost a lot.
CharlesY
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