2.5 n/a D Still overheating!!!!! Arrrrgghhh!!

9

90ninety

Guest

• Apr 25, 2005

• #1

Hi chaps, further to my recent posts - 2.5 n/a D. Gets very hot - into red.
I have an electric fan and Kenlowe stat fitted. Fan cuts in where it always
did so I know temp gauge is okay.
Fitted new radiator, new water pump and thermostat in the last 2 weeks with
only a very slight improvement. The problem only started about 3 weeks ago,
all was tickety-boo until then. Oil in rocker cover seems okay, no unusual
smoke from engine which is running great - apart from the heat.
This would suggest to me a blockage in the water channel/s in the block
itself.
How do I solve this one???!!!!!
Any help much appreciated.

Stew.

 

T

Tom Woods

Guest

• Apr 26, 2005

• #2

On Mon, 25 Apr 2005 23:20:19 +0100, "90ninety"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Hi chaps, further to my recent posts - 2.5 n/a D. Gets very hot - into red.
>I have an electric fan and Kenlowe stat fitted. Fan cuts in where it always
>did so I know temp gauge is okay.
>Fitted new radiator, new water pump and thermostat in the last 2 weeks with
>only a very slight improvement. The problem only started about 3 weeks ago,
>all was tickety-boo until then. Oil in rocker cover seems okay, no unusual
>smoke from engine which is running great - apart from the heat.
>This would suggest to me a blockage in the water channel/s in the block
>itself.
>How do I solve this one???!!!!!
>Any help much appreciated.

is the radiator actually getting hot?, and have you tried it without a
thermostat in to rule that out as a problem.

Even with a stuck open thermostat and a waterpump that wasnt spinning
properly (lost the key in the bottom pulley so it wasnt turning the
belt properly) my 2.5 didnt even get up to normal (with thermostat)
running temp after dual carriage way cruising.

It does sound like something serious could be up with it.
>

 

J

Jon

Guest

• Apr 26, 2005

• #3

My 200Tdi still does similar...

I have put on a new viscous coupling, replaced the radiator (that was
about 5 years past knackered), and new stat, water pump is good.
There is no trace of oil in water or water in oil and it still climbs
nearly to the red when driving along the motorway.

I have read 2 things that it could be of late - collapsing bottom hose
and blocked cores in the block.

So I too would like to know how to clean / clear the water jacket.

Also, how do you tell if the bottom hose is collapsing under suction?
Would I see it if someone rev'ed the engin whilst I watched it?

Thanks
Jon



On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 00:34:28 +0100, Tom Woods <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On Mon, 25 Apr 2005 23:20:19 +0100, "90ninety"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Hi chaps, further to my recent posts - 2.5 n/a D. Gets very hot - into red.
>>I have an electric fan and Kenlowe stat fitted. Fan cuts in where it always
>>did so I know temp gauge is okay.
>>Fitted new radiator, new water pump and thermostat in the last 2 weeks with
>>only a very slight improvement. The problem only started about 3 weeks ago,
>>all was tickety-boo until then. Oil in rocker cover seems okay, no unusual
>>smoke from engine which is running great - apart from the heat.
>>This would suggest to me a blockage in the water channel/s in the block
>>itself.
>>How do I solve this one???!!!!!
>>Any help much appreciated.
>
>is the radiator actually getting hot?, and have you tried it without a
>thermostat in to rule that out as a problem.
>
>Even with a stuck open thermostat and a waterpump that wasnt spinning
>properly (lost the key in the bottom pulley so it wasnt turning the
>belt properly) my 2.5 didnt even get up to normal (with thermostat)
>running temp after dual carriage way cruising.
>
>It does sound like something serious could be up with it.
>>

 

9

90ninety

Guest

• Apr 26, 2005

• #4

I have replaced all the hoses in the engine bay. Top, bottom and heater
hoses.
Radiator gets hot on one side (from top hose) and is stone cold on the
other. I would at least expect it to be luke warm when the engine is hot, if
water is circulating. If I run with no thermostat temperature reaches about
1/3 of the gauge. I would expect hardly any movement f circulation was good.

Stew

"90ninety" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi chaps, further to my recent posts - 2.5 n/a D. Gets very hot - into
> red. I have an electric fan and Kenlowe stat fitted. Fan cuts in where it
> always did so I know temp gauge is okay.
> Fitted new radiator, new water pump and thermostat in the last 2 weeks
> with only a very slight improvement. The problem only started about 3
> weeks ago, all was tickety-boo until then. Oil in rocker cover seems okay,
> no unusual smoke from engine which is running great - apart from the heat.
> This would suggest to me a blockage in the water channel/s in the block
> itself.
> How do I solve this one???!!!!!
> Any help much appreciated.
>
> Stew.
>

 

L

Lee_D

Guest

• Apr 26, 2005

• #5

"90ninety" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi chaps, further to my recent posts - 2.5 n/a D. Gets very hot - into
> red. I have an electric fan and Kenlowe stat fitted. Fan cuts in where it
> always did so I know temp gauge is okay.
> Fitted new radiator, new water pump and thermostat in the last 2 weeks
> with only a very slight improvement. The problem only started about 3
> weeks ago, all was tickety-boo until then. Oil in rocker cover seems okay,
> no unusual smoke from engine which is running great - apart from the heat.
> This would suggest to me a blockage in the water channel/s in the block
> itself.
> How do I solve this one???!!!!!
> Any help much appreciated.
>
> Stew.

Do a compression test, my money is on the head gasket failing. probably
between two cylinders.

Had Similar on Percy when I got him (2 1/4 engine in those old days).

I did have reduced performance though - even for a sIIa.

Lee D

 

9

90ninety

Guest

• Apr 26, 2005

• #6

wouldn't a failing head gasket produce some sort of smoke or performance
deterioration? I have niether!

Stew.

"Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "90ninety" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Hi chaps, further to my recent posts - 2.5 n/a D. Gets very hot - into
>> red. I have an electric fan and Kenlowe stat fitted. Fan cuts in where it
>> always did so I know temp gauge is okay.
>> Fitted new radiator, new water pump and thermostat in the last 2 weeks
>> with only a very slight improvement. The problem only started about 3
>> weeks ago, all was tickety-boo until then. Oil in rocker cover seems
>> okay, no unusual smoke from engine which is running great - apart from
>> the heat.
>> This would suggest to me a blockage in the water channel/s in the block
>> itself.
>> How do I solve this one???!!!!!
>> Any help much appreciated.
>>
>> Stew.
>
> Do a compression test, my money is on the head gasket failing. probably
> between two cylinders.
>
> Had Similar on Percy when I got him (2 1/4 engine in those old days).
>
> I did have reduced performance though - even for a sIIa.
>
> Lee D
>

 

L

Lee_D

Guest

• Apr 26, 2005

• #7

"90ninety" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> wouldn't a failing head gasket produce some sort of smoke or performance
> deterioration? I have niether!
>
> Stew.

On my IIa it did but that was between 2 cylinders and a fair ole in the
gasket too.

On my VM it made no difference that was noticeable to the drive. I chould
however hear the the chuffing under acceleration.

Have you checked the injectors too?

Lee D

 

G

Gmacz

Guest

• Apr 26, 2005

• #8

"90ninety" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi chaps, further to my recent posts - 2.5 n/a D. Gets very hot - into
> red. I have an electric fan and Kenlowe stat fitted. Fan cuts in where it
> always did so I know temp gauge is okay.

You say the gauge is ok.
What about the temp sensor in the engine.
Forget the Kenlowe and just look at what the landy is telling you.
Engine is running well and everything else is ok, but the gauge is telling
you it is overheating.
Yours Gmacz

 

T

Tom Woods

Guest

• Apr 26, 2005

• #9

On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 08:34:32 +0100, "90ninety"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I have replaced all the hoses in the engine bay. Top, bottom and heater
>hoses.
>Radiator gets hot on one side (from top hose) and is stone cold on the
>other. I would at least expect it to be luke warm when the engine is hot, if
>water is circulating.

If you havent already tried, then with the 'stat out, and the bottom
hose detached, stick a hosepipe in the top hose and run it through the
engine. See what comes out.

>If I run with no thermostat temperature reaches about
>1/3 of the gauge.

That doesnt sound too unreasonable.

Are you positive your thermostat is opening properly?. Most have a
little hole in and let a small amount of hot water past even when
closed - so perhaps this is why your radiator is only getting slightly
warm.
Another new thermostat only costs a few quid and is easy to try. I
have had a fair few that have been faulty 'out of the box', so i
reckon its worth double checking!

Also - have you sat and watched the engine to check if the fan belt is
spinning properly?. I lost the key on my bottom pulley so it didnt
spin properly and it wasnt until i'd replaced the alternator and it
hadnt cured my dead battery problems that i noticed how slowly the
belt was spinning! (there was a small amount of friction that caused
it to spin just fast enough to make the charge light go out - but it
never sped up with the engine!) This also explained my warmer running
that week! (water pump wasnt turning at full speed)


I think one of my cars has a cracked head/dead gasket as I have
bubbles in the expansion tank. (the oil is fine)
With no thermostat in that still gets hot very quickly at tickover.

 

G

GbH

Guest

• Apr 26, 2005

• #10

In news:[email protected],
Tom Woods <[email protected]> blithered:
> On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 08:34:32 +0100, "90ninety"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I have replaced all the hoses in the engine bay. Top, bottom and
>> heater hoses.
>> Radiator gets hot on one side (from top hose) and is stone cold on
>> the other. I would at least expect it to be luke warm when the
>> engine is hot, if water is circulating.
>
> If you havent already tried, then with the 'stat out, and the bottom
> hose detached, stick a hosepipe in the top hose and run it through the
> engine. See what comes out.

Usually better to do it t'other way round.
In @ bottom hose, out @ top, ie back flush it.




>> If I run with no thermostat temperature reaches about
>> 1/3 of the gauge.
>
> That doesnt sound too unreasonable.
>
> Are you positive your thermostat is opening properly?. Most have a
> little hole in and let a small amount of hot water past even when
> closed - so perhaps this is why your radiator is only getting slightly
> warm.
> Another new thermostat only costs a few quid and is easy to try. I
> have had a fair few that have been faulty 'out of the box', so i
> reckon its worth double checking!
>
> Also - have you sat and watched the engine to check if the fan belt is
> spinning properly?. I lost the key on my bottom pulley so it didnt
> spin properly and it wasnt until i'd replaced the alternator and it
> hadnt cured my dead battery problems that i noticed how slowly the
> belt was spinning! (there was a small amount of friction that caused
> it to spin just fast enough to make the charge light go out - but it
> never sped up with the engine!) This also explained my warmer running
> that week! (water pump wasnt turning at full speed)
>
>
> I think one of my cars has a cracked head/dead gasket as I have
> bubbles in the expansion tank. (the oil is fine)
> With no thermostat in that still gets hot very quickly at tickover.



--
"She who says it cannot be done should not interrupt him doing it."

If at first you don't succeed,
maybe skydiving's not for you!

 

E

EMB

Guest

• Apr 26, 2005

• #11

GbH wrote:

> Usually better to do it t'other way round.
> In @ bottom hose, out @ top, ie back flush it.

No - in at top to back flush - the original suggestion was correct.

--
EMB

 

G

GbH

Guest

• Apr 26, 2005

• #12

In news:[email protected],
EMB <[email protected]> blithered:
> GbH wrote:
>
>> Usually better to do it t'other way round.
>> In @ bottom hose, out @ top, ie back flush it.
>
> No - in at top to back flush - the original suggestion was correct.

That'll back flush the block but not the radiator.

--
"She who says it cannot be done should not interrupt him doing it."

If at first you don't succeed,
maybe skydiving's not for you!

 

9

90ninety

Guest

• Apr 26, 2005

• #13

The Kenlowe stat was set when the temp was okay according to the gauge. I
know the engine is too hot and not cooling because the Kenlowe does not
switch off, because as the gauge says, its too hot!
I have tried flushing the block several times in both directions to no
avail.
Stew.

"Gmacz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "90ninety" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Hi chaps, further to my recent posts - 2.5 n/a D. Gets very hot - into
>> red. I have an electric fan and Kenlowe stat fitted. Fan cuts in where it
>> always did so I know temp gauge is okay.
>
> You say the gauge is ok.
> What about the temp sensor in the engine.
> Forget the Kenlowe and just look at what the landy is telling you.
> Engine is running well and everything else is ok, but the gauge is telling
> you it is overheating.
> Yours Gmacz
>
>
>

 

T

Tom Woods

Guest

• Apr 26, 2005

• #14

On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 21:01:17 +0100, "GbH"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>In news:[email protected],
>EMB <[email protected]> blithered:
>> GbH wrote:
>>
>>> Usually better to do it t'other way round.
>>> In @ bottom hose, out @ top, ie back flush it.
>>
>> No - in at top to back flush - the original suggestion was correct.
>
>That'll back flush the block but not the radiator.

He says he's put a new radiator on it, so that should hopefully be
clear.

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Apr 27, 2005

• #15

On or around Tue, 26 Apr 2005 22:14:34 +0100, "90ninety"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>The Kenlowe stat was set when the temp was okay according to the gauge. I
>know the engine is too hot and not cooling because the Kenlowe does not
>switch off, because as the gauge says, its too hot!
> I have tried flushing the block several times in both directions to no
>avail.
>Stew.

OK, so you tried running it seriously with the stat out, and it got to 1/3
gauge?

I reckon the stat's iffy - I've had new ones that didn't perform according
to spec.

if it's working, the engine will get to near-normal operating temp without
the stat. When idling or pootling along, it'll cool down again.

If it gets to normal temp at *idle* with no stat, then you have problems.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
Too Busy: Your mind is like a motorway. Sometimes it can be jammed by
too much traffic. Avoid the jams by never using your mind on a
Bank Holiday weekend.
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.

 

9

90ninety

Guest

• Apr 27, 2005

• #16

I took it for a very long run with no thermostat yesterday at speeds ranging
from standstill to 65-70mph. It gets hot enough to turn the cooling fan on
(about 2/3rds up the gauge), but does cool down again with the help of the
fanm to about halfway.
I tested the old stat in a pan of water with a calibrated digital
thermometer, it opens at exactly 82 deg C but not very much. The new stat I
did have fitted is marked at 82 but opens at 84 deg C, which is okay, and it
opens much wider.

Stew

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Tue, 26 Apr 2005 22:14:34 +0100, "90ninety"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>The Kenlowe stat was set when the temp was okay according to the gauge. I
>>know the engine is too hot and not cooling because the Kenlowe does not
>>switch off, because as the gauge says, its too hot!
>> I have tried flushing the block several times in both directions to no
>>avail.
>>Stew.
>
> OK, so you tried running it seriously with the stat out, and it got to 1/3
> gauge?
>
> I reckon the stat's iffy - I've had new ones that didn't perform according
> to spec.
>
> if it's working, the engine will get to near-normal operating temp without
> the stat. When idling or pootling along, it'll cool down again.
>
> If it gets to normal temp at *idle* with no stat, then you have problems.
>
> --
> Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
> Too Busy: Your mind is like a motorway. Sometimes it can be jammed by
> too much traffic. Avoid the jams by never using your mind on a
> Bank Holiday weekend.
> from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.

 

A

Angus McCoatup

Guest

• Apr 27, 2005

• #17

mine runs about a needles width over a quarter with a new stat.
At the mo I'm running with no fan on the engine and it stays under half.
I had the radiator covered up in the winter, work and back it didn't go over
half.
when I went down the motorway it didn't take long for it to shoot up to 3/4
at 65 so I had to slow down.

put a new stat in (was cold wanted more heat) mine when I got it and had the
rad recored (it fell to bits and leaked like a sieve)

Jon (85 90 nad)