1962 SWB V8 poor running

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lockie

New Member
Posts
31
Location
Windsor
Just got my Landy 3 or so weeks ago and there are a few probs with it.

She's got a 3500cc RPI rebuilt engine and has done 6000miles since (out of warranty) on top sits a webber 500cfm Carb :) which was new when the engine was done.

Starts O.K on choke then dies quicky(lots of black smoke) until choke is off then sputters until warm.:(

when warm she's a pain to get going:mad: again although has never not started,:) lumition ignition fitted and elec fuel pump.

I've check the timing which is set at 6Deg BTDC(RPI Spec).

N.B just bought the Landrover Operation Manual Ref AKM8159 for the Series II & IIa from Amazon £38.00 + P&P 20 times better then Haynes manual and the cheapest i've seen usualy about £54.00 it covers 2.25 petrol and diesel and 2.6 6cyl.
Don't hesitate to ask for info from manaul.
 
When your starting from cold does the idle speed increase the more you pull the choke out? If not could be a fast idle adjustment is needed. There should be a linkage somewhere that opens the throttle slightly when applying the choke.

As for the poor hot start. has the carb been matched to the engine? like a rolling road tune or anything? If too big a carb is fitted the engine cannot produce the vacuum to make it work! That can be overcome on cold start as you are using the choke which increases the vacuum in the manifold.

It sounds as though you have checked the basic tune of the engine. Make sure you have the correct grade spark plugs etc fitted, no air leaks.

Another cause of poor hot start can be fuel evaporating in the carb float bowl. Thats a big hot V8 sat there with a little bit of fuel in the float bowl of the carb. When the engine is switched off all that heat can make the fuel in the carb, and the lines to it, evaporate - known as vapour lock - and make the engine hard to start.

Should be a beasty if you can get it to run right tho!

Good luck!
 
Hi

Make sure the Choke is adjusted correctly as well as the gaskets which seal the carbs to the block. The valley gasket is also a problem the V8's, although isn't a hard thing to change just time consuming (The gasket is tin and very sharp as I found out today)

The carbs are not a lot of good EFi is a better option on the 3.5.

Sounds like you have a carb gasket leak or the engine is in need of a complete rebuild or the butterfly valve is worn along with stretched springs (provided it has springs). Too much air makes an engine quit or fuel starvation.

Never had any dealings with the webber 500 cfm carbs (Don't like webber think they're over rated and not user friendly) You would be better served fitting the original carbs or getting an EFi manifold.

As previously said check spark plugs (style and condition if black and powdery too much air if black and sludgy then the engine is in need of attention.

The engine rebuild is either expensive or time consuming the carb gasket is easy to fit.

Hope this is some help

Charlotte
 
Thanks to everyone who replied with there help and ideas to help solve my landies problem, i've found that the fuel has been vaporising causing the poor hot starting. I will now make a heat shield between the carb and manifold and insulate the fuel pipes that run near the engine with heat proof lagging(if any of this sounds like tosh please say).

I am thinking of converting this to fuel injection, a popular classic car mag has been running a feature on D.I.Y E.F.I the hardware is cheap(second hand) and with a programable 3D ECU, does away with the distrubutor for a coil pack.I realise Rover V8 come with EFI but that is a bit low tech nowadays and not very tunable.In the feature they converted a 1940's V12 27 litre Merlin engine, an 1970's ford escort engine and a Vauxhall chevette 2.3 with bits like throttle bodies and injectors from from scrapped cars with excelent results.
Maybe the 2.25 4 cylinder owners could inprove there fuel economy and reliability with modern cars parts.
Anyone interested in the D.I.Y E.F.I artical please e-mail.
 
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