What have you done on your 90/110/130 today?

[RustyDefender]

Please put a better base down under axle stand and jack.

J

Just checking in @marjon I'm safe the axel stands and jack and tyre held up

 

[Knappster]

Drove it to work, or at least got half way. The oil warning light came on followed by a loss of power. I stopped as quickly as I could and opened the bonnet to find the engine and engine bay covered in oil and a large puddle of oil underneath. Four hours waiting for recovery and it was taken to my Indy for diagnosis. Just got to hope the engine isn’t damaged, although I stopped as soon as the issue occurred.

 

[RustyDefender]

Just a daily update where i'm at.. yes i used britpart bearings, tell me "i told you so" when they fail.. putting the new bearing races in is so easy with a piece of kitchen roll and a bearing puller/push kit.. with a small adjustment tool (hammer)

 

[RustyDefender]

all prepped and ready for tomorrow..

 

[Dr Strangeglove]

Just a daily update where i'm at.. yes i used britpart bearings, tell me "i told you so" when they fail.. putting the new bearing races in is so easy with a piece of kitchen roll and a bearing puller/push kit.. with a small adjustment tool (hammer)

I must admit I used Timken bearings and Corteco seals after seeing comments about Britpart in various threads. I really couldn't say what the difference will be and for the mileage I do it probably wouldn't have made much difference to me. I did pack them well with grease mind. I find the Britannica Restorations and trailer fitters toolbox videos really useful. Are you of a mechanicing background or starting from scratch like me?

 

[RustyDefender]

I must admit I used Timken bearings and Corteco seals after seeing comments about Britpart in various threads. I really couldn't say what the difference will be and for the mileage I do it probably wouldn't have made much difference to me. I did pack them well with grease mind. I find the Britannica Restorations and trailer fitters toolbox videos really useful. Are you of a mechanicing background or starting from scratch like me?

We will see who's fails first, I don't mind the wheel bearings tbh, that was the easy part so if they do fail i won't cheap out on britpart ones again! I did the same thing.. caked them in grease! Yeah I'm just watching these youtube videos.. finding that majority of these videos are for the newer 300tdi+ swivels etc

 

[miktdish]

Fitted new disks, calipers and pads to my mates 90 (Colin) ... the calipers were a tad tight to get on...

Had to grind 1mm off the caliper bolts otherwise they touched the disk.

 

[RustyDefender]

Ready to fit..

 

[marjon]

Ready to fit..

Set the preload?

J

 

[RustyDefender]

Set the preload?

J

Yeah same shims as the previous ones

 

[marjon]

Yeah same shims as the previous ones

I think you will find that's not the way it works.

J

 

[Hicap phill]

I think you will find that's not the way it works.

J

Especially as you have newer parts that make things tighter.

 

[Hicap phill]

Today admired the spiders webs that have taken over the hicap

 

[Knappster]

Today admired the spiders webs that have taken over the hicap

By the time I get my 90 back, I’m anticipating it being full of spiders!

 

[Dr Strangeglove]

Yeah same shims as the previous ones

Be aware that the preload of the Railko bush is not the same as the one with twin bearings. The preload for the twin bearings is around 1.6kg where the Railko is around 4kg. This needs to be checked as its totally from memory and is definitely not the actual figures. Also the load needs to be taken whilst the swivel is moving, not to start it moving. This is a real pain as when moving its difficult to get a decent reading.

 

[Dr Strangeglove]

Be aware that the preload of the Railko bush is not the same as the one with twin bearings. The preload for the twin bearings is around 1.6kg where the Railko is around 4kg. This needs to be checked as its totally from memory and is definitely not the actual figures. Also the load needs to be taken whilst the swivel is moving, not to start it moving. This is a real pain as when moving its difficult to get a decent reading.

Swivel bearing preload

Hi there. Been changing the swivel bearings on my 1987 90 over the weekend but wondering what preload to use. I have the early axle (used to have drum rear axle) so don't have the roller bearings at the top (is it Railko bush?), just a large metal dish the pin then sits into. Anyway I looked in m...

forums.lr4x4.com

 

[RustyDefender]

Be aware that the preload of the Railko bush is not the same as the one with twin bearings. The preload for the twin bearings is around 1.6kg where the Railko is around 4kg. This needs to be checked as its totally from memory and is definitely not the actual figures. Also the load needs to be taken whilst the swivel is moving, not to start it moving. This is a real pain as when moving its difficult to get a decent reading.

I just threw all the shims in and still tough to move it.. i thought the rule was you can just move it and feel the friction against it right?

 

[RustyDefender]

now it's time to test that preload.. was raining and wasn't wasting anymore time in the garage.. got the other side to do yet

 

[RustyDefender]

(ignore the locking washer, had to reuse existing one)

Really wished I purchased new hubs.. had to file off a chunk of rust to make them not take out the caliper

 

[My Old Landy]

(ignore the locking washer, had to reuse existing one)

Really wished I purchased new hubs.. had to file off a chunk of rust to make them not take out the caliper

With everything else new in that area, I would probably have got new hubs, but where do you stop