Series 3 1977 - SWB Rebuild - Slowly......

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
L

Landrover77

Member
Posts
93
Ok So thought i would try and document work done so far and thoughts / Issues / Questions as i go along.

Might still post specific Questions in there own thread?

My 1977 SWB Petrol has been with me for about 6 years, Weekend run around & Wood collecting Machine!
vD8dMWc.jpg

so started with a the plan of getting the Front Panel Welded.... well we all know what happens.
CnE2Rxm.jpg

then a full strip down.
Xbis8cq.jpg

zY3V7Tp.jpg

arlhdh3.jpg

then a long wait for this to Arrive!!!
9zfhplz.jpg

so some more storage using more Tarpaulins and a winter.....

To Push things along have had bits done locally - i am just not set up with space / time equipment to take all tasks on.

T0WRoRr.jpg


Now i am with Some time on my hands (Covid) time to get stuck in.

AchQRKz.jpg


Axles On - It moves Finally

qrauMyI.jpg


Now have engine in pieces....

Will Try and Document as i go along.

Many thanks & And any pointers massive appreciated as this is my first Landy..
Hoping to get it to a mechanically clean & Tidy State, - Might not paint body work as rather attached to a few dents & Bumps.
 
Looks like you're doing a great job! I agree, it's worth retaining the original paintwork. Saying that, I didn't know that County models were introduced in 1977? I thought they were introduced in the 1980s. I stand to be corrected though...Keep posting more photos.
 
how do i find out Nut & Bolt sizes used on the landy?
i could use the part number and purhase from paddocks or similar but must be possible to work out whats used and purchase locally.

pressing one is what size is used on the 4 small bolts on the underside of the Steering realay? i will need to Tap these as the its a galvanises chassis.

many thanks for any pointers.
 
Using the original part number look it up on Craddocks site. Their descriptions usually include all sizes where Paddocks don't.

If it's the bolts for the collar that holds the relay in place under cross member then I think there are captive bolts inside. Shouldn't need tapping unless it's just to clear out some galv.

Capture.PNG


I think it's 255206. What do you think?

255206.PNG
 
Landrover77 said:
amazing just trying that out - slow but can get a shopping list together now. many thanks
Click to expand...
You do still find that some stuff is just crazy priced and need to shop around. I needed 2 BX605281 the bolts that go horizontally through the top of the steering relay to hold it to the chassis. Craddocks £9.80 each, Paddocks £8.60 each, place local to me Spalding fasteners https://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/ £1.20 the pair. :D
 
Remember to fit the bolts for top of steering relay from engine side ie nuts at front, as if you fit them the other way you need to remove radiator panel to get them out in the future. [From experience I didn't half curse ].
 
If you have an engine crane gearbox 1st leave mountings slack, prop the box up with a piece of wood under bell housing so it sits level when fitting the engine.
 
Blackburn said:
Remember to fit the bolts for top of steering relay from engine side ie nuts at front, as if you fit them the other way you need to remove radiator panel to get them out in the future. [From experience I didn't half curse ].
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. I've fitted mine wrong in that case. You have saved me a potential load of hassle.;)
 
Blackburn said:
If you have an engine crane gearbox 1st leave mountings slack, prop the box up with a piece of wood under bell housing so it sits level when fitting the engine.
Click to expand...
As a matter of interest, what's the reason for doing the gearbox first?
I did the engine first in the expectation I'd have to give it a couple of goes to get the new clutch properly aligned (and so it turned out!), and preferred to have to move a slightly lighter lump of metal more frequently.
Leaving the mounts loose until it's all together and using the piece of wood under the bell housing, is necessary whichever way you do it.
 
@TheMegaMan Engine second because it's easy to move on an engine crane.
I do not have crane and use a fixed point [garage roof] to lift engine into place so fit the gearbox to engine after getting engine located as you say lighter lump
 
So my thinking as that i am working on my own in cramped space tat i would rather get engine in then the gearbox being the smaller item it would be easier to jiggle it into position rather than wrestling with the heavy engine.
picked up a Engineerings hoist locally so feeling much safer lifting those heavy lumps in and out.

Z6Iy5oM.jpg
 
Yeah, I had a hoist, but wanted to minimise the amount of time lifting or moving the engine, as the engine weight was right on the limit for the hoist. @Landrover77 's hoist looks a bit more robust than the one I borrowed.

It didn't help that I'm working on a gravel drive, running the hoist on a couple of planks of wood, so changing the angle or shuffling the hoist was a real pain!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

DeanDS
Series 3 SWB 200TDI cambelt change
Replies
6
Views
459
lynall
L
S
rebuilding gearbox question
Replies
4
Views
415
tottot
tottot
R
Steel hardtops.
Replies
5
Views
546
rubix101
R
Trumar
CHASSIS? 2
2
Replies
26
Views
1K
Trumar
Trumar
K
Series 3 1972 SIII Rebuild with RVR 3.5 V8
Replies
0
Views
410
kenixster
K
Back
Top