P38A 2.5 DHSE Electrical

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Thanks for the help guys, i eventually found the workshop manual PDF which didnt include much wiring info, i then found the wiring info in another PDF
What wiring mods do you want to do?
I have 2 kits to fit, one is a remote key fob system which is more secure than the original system which doesn't work anyway (I have an electrical/electronics background) this outputs various signals, lock/unlock and disable for disabling the starting of the vehicle. From what i have seen in the wiring diagram, this unit will have to be mounted inside the drivers door and connected to the lock/unlock in the door lock, the disable line fed into the car.

The second kit is a one button start/stop. This needs the disable signal and a connection to the oil light and ignition light, also a signal from park and neutral (Automatic) and a signal from handbrake on. This module outputs ignition on and start.

So the diagram was needed to find the various wires and colours to tap into.
 
Thanks for the help guys, i eventually found the workshop manual PDF which didnt include much wiring info, i then found the wiring info in another PDF

I have 2 kits to fit, one is a remote key fob system which is more secure than the original system which doesn't work anyway (I have an electrical/electronics background) this outputs various signals, lock/unlock and disable for disabling the starting of the vehicle. From what i have seen in the wiring diagram, this unit will have to be mounted inside the drivers door and connected to the lock/unlock in the door lock, the disable line fed into the car.

The second kit is a one button start/stop. This needs the disable signal and a connection to the oil light and ignition light, also a signal from park and neutral (Automatic) and a signal from handbrake on. This module outputs ignition on and start.

So the diagram was needed to find the various wires and colours to tap into.
You may end up in a mess doing these things. Personally i would get the standard locking working correctly before even considering your mods..
 
You may end up in a mess doing these things. Personally i would get the standard locking working correctly before even considering your mods..
After a morning working on it and doing a few mods in the workshop and now have the new fob system working. My only issue was the door circuits are all 5v logic levels and the new key unit 12v but a bit of thinking later i had a work around and also have the immobilise signal to feed the start/stop system which again i suspect will be 5 volts
 
After a morning working on it and doing a few mods in the workshop and now have the new fob system working. My only issue was the door circuits are all 5v logic levels and the new key unit 12v but a bit of thinking later i had a work around and also have the immobilise signal to feed the start/stop system which again i suspect will be 5 volts
If you turn of EKA and the immobiliser in the BECM, it will make life easier.
 
I went to my friends garage and he has a professional OBD tablet costing some £2000+ He had a look to see if he could get the fob working. He couldn't see anything that remotely suggested the BECM, just general diagnostics, engine, transmission ABS etc. I don't know if its related but the interior lights dont work, puddle lights do
 
Wiring diagrams are at the end in the electrical troubleshooting section in my version of RAVE.

I'm with Wammers on this. There's nothing wrong with the original fob setup. Half the time the owners cannot get into or start the damn thing with the proper key. Any theif that gets it going has earned it.
 
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