P38 EAS constantly adjusting

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
RawData tab in my spreadsheet.

Row 697. Look at the live reading in columns H. Why so low all of a sudden? Engine speed changes up, went down a gear?
Row 1839. Look at the live reading in columns E and F. Why so low all of a sudden? Engine speed changes up, went down a gear?
Row 2990, give or take a bit: Look at columns E to H. Again, low actuals. The very low value in H corresponds to the foot-brake being applied and the battery volts dropping. Revs drop down to about 550 as well which is a surprise as I would think it would stall.
Row 3065. Again, low values in E and F. Engine speed is dropping and volts do a weird thing around then.

Might be chasing data glitches but maybe not?

Should I guess, speed bumps?

I am not too impressed with the Nanocomm logging. I tried once more and I can feel that the compressor stops running but it says "ON" the whole time according to the logfile.
 
Last edited:
I reckon there is a dirty connection on a sensor which cannot settle but as it changes height it upsets all the rest which then try to get back to where they want to be

Fresh out of contact cleaner, but I will get some more tomorrow. Checked the connectors and I saw one pin with some slight green corrotion.
 
Should I guess, speed bumps?

I am not too impressed with the Nanocomm logging. I tried once more and I can feel that the compressor stops running but it says "ON" the whole time according to the logfile.

It only logs about once a second what the EAS sees, not necessarily what actually happened.

Speed bumps sounds possible!
 
If you can actually see green corrosion, then for sure there is a bad connection. It might take more than contact cleaner to sort it.

Sure @pwood999 posted something about using spirit vinegar and bicarb (or table salt, perhaps?) mixed up and then rinsing thoroughly, spraying with contact cleaner and drying with a hairdryer. Something like that anyway. Pretty sure he posted a youtube video link at some stage too.
 
Sure @pwood999 posted something about using spirit vinegar and bicarb (or table salt, perhaps?) mixed up and then rinsing thoroughly, spraying with contact cleaner and drying with a hairdryer. Something like that anyway. Pretty sure he posted a youtube video link at some stage too.
That will do it, but you need to be very sure to remove all traces of the vinegar/bicarb or you will end up with a bigger problem.
 
The attached log is from my garage floor. I tried to clear the contact with a thin screwdriver and I think the car became more stable.

The logging says that the compressor is "ON" all the time, but that is not correct. Just after the front lifted itself by approx 10mm the compressor runs for about 5-10 seconds and the shuts off. Then the front sinks for maybe 5mm. When it rises for maybe 5mm again the compressor runs for about 5-10 seconds again. I am sure that the reservoir should be able to handle 10mm lift of the front without starting the compressor to fill again, so I do think I need to order an T and a manometer in order to see what is going to with the pressure in order to investigate this further.
 

Attachments

  • T3.CSV.zip
    2.4 KB · Views: 86
The compressor seems to run whenever it lifts a spring. Mine does, if only for a few seconds to top it back up again.

If the compressor is showing as on but isn't then there has to be a bad connection there somewhere. The Nanocom just reads what the EAS computer is reading. The pin out for the connector is in the Nanocom documentation. You can probably work out if it is 12V or 0V that makes it think it is on. My guess is it is seeing 0V where it should see 12V. The fact your volts and some other readings went wonky as you went over the speed bumps might point to a dodgy connection somewhere too.
 
The attached log is from my garage floor. I tried to clear the contact with a thin screwdriver and I think the car became more stable.

The logging says that the compressor is "ON" all the time, but that is not correct. Just after the front lifted itself by approx 10mm the compressor runs for about 5-10 seconds and the shuts off. Then the front sinks for maybe 5mm. When it rises for maybe 5mm again the compressor runs for about 5-10 seconds again. I am sure that the reservoir should be able to handle 10mm lift of the front without starting the compressor to fill again, so I do think I need to order an T and a manometer in order to see what is going to with the pressure in order to investigate this further.
The compressor running after a lift is normal. A pressure gauge will not help you and just add potential leaks.
 
Well, I was curious so I installed a pressure gauge inline with the tank. The compressor fills the tank with approx 9,8 bars with no problems. It seems when the valves open I get a pressure dip to about 5bar. When it closes again the pressure quickly rises again, but the drop is enough to trigger the compressor. When the compressor is running and the valve opens it seems like the pressure drop/spike causes the compressor to stop for a small amount of time. The opening and closing of valves seems to keep the compressor running.
 
Tried to clean the plug but still not difference.
Made calibration blocks from a broomstick for "Standard" height.

Now it only seems like the front is going up and down for about 1-1.5cm.
 
Tried to clean the plug but still not difference.
Made calibration blocks from a broomstick for "Standard" height.

Now it only seems like the front is going up and down for about 1-1.5cm.

Have you set the front bit count within 2 bits side to side?
 
If it is doing that stood still or even driving around you either have a dicky sensor that is not linear or a leak simple as that.

I do belive that a leaks should be ruled out by all the tests I have preformed.

The third option is some wierd electrical gremlin, which I now fear...
 
Back
Top