Another over heat

[Grit Valve]

So new 1 year ago new water pump, oem thermo ,new rad getting hot all over new fan never been in the red since I changed these parts used to get hot up steep hills.
Always stays at 12.oclock can hear fan whooshing chops up paper feels stiffer when got than cold .
Towed two tons of type one about 8 long trips no over heat went to go on holiday caravan up a hill crept in the red so swapped it for our manuel one carried on holiday

I can't belive the fan is dead within one year but what I have always noticed is mine heats up twice as fast as our other one ??
I think the other has the thermo removed I'm thinking of doing the same been told not a good idear as glazing ect unburnt diesel over fuelling ???
Will not get hot why not ?
What's the differance with an open thermo and no thermo? Thought it just take longer to warm not stay cool ?
Well its strange we have two cars the same in good Heath and both stay at 12 but mine heats much faster and overheats and the other takes much longer to reach 12 and don't over heat thoughts please is it really the fan so soon?????

 

[gfromleeds]

Mines a quick overheater too sits at 1200 all day then within a miute can go from there to overheat
that said it only does it when towing the caravan think its the fan but it seams to build up alot of pressure too

 

[Datatek]

Fan, water pump, rad or stat, ****part by any chance? Not A good idea to run without the stat especially with winter coming. A stat is not an open/closed device, it regulates temperature.

 

[kevwill]

My ****part viscous was.....well ****! Heated up to about 3/4 gauge when under load up hill. Always cooled down quickly when I put the heater/blower on full blast. Changed it to a decent quality coupling and no problems since.

 

[Grit Valve]

No parts **** part all oem good makes metal w pump think fan was hellua or similar bosch t/star only done 16000 since nothing really only thing I can think of is caravan is so big it causes to much drag compared to a trailer .
It seems this is such a common problem I'm thinking fit a fan instead of the viscous .
I know you have a override data but I would prefer my fan to suck the air like the v fan not try and push with your mod through the condensor its my only option now I think as I'm not buying another bloody useless v fan they just don't last!!!

 

[Grit Valve]

Ok had fan tested by a BMW friend as well he's says it's fine I'm now sitting here for half an hour to see if the temp rises at a stand still ie to test the fan as this is when it is most needed as there is no air flow through movment 10 mins so far so good .
But I was told to give it some on the way home so I did , I also noticed something stick to to 70 mph all is fine go a little faster( i dont Usually )and it creeps to 3/4 every time take your foot off and after a little its back in the middle something's not quiet right I'm starting to think this rad can't handle it .i know there are double core types to absorbe the heat maybe that's the answer I see what he suggests as I'm stumped on this beast other than that driver her normally or with a trailer no Probs push it a little and up she goes .
I always thiught Diesels don't get hot if cooling system is good wierd
Ok 20 mins still half way this is crazy .

 

[matt1987]

Im having similar problems to you mine has rose to 3/4 heat and then back down to the original 12oclock

I had a failing waterpump but that I mean I had a small weap of coolant I replaced the water pump with metal one the original was a metal one too. I replaced the thermostat because I was there I tested the old one and it worked so did the new one, temp gauge never got past the first line so I removed the temp sender found it to be slightly dirty cleaned it up and put it back, the rad was flushed and came back clear, it was pressure filled via a vacuum device so no air lock. The rad get evenly warm and the viscous fan is working, the overflow pipe is clear and is working correctly. It has the correct mix of coolant.

Mine rose to 3/4 once when going up a long steep hill in traffic at 15mph as soon as i was at the top and the load removed and still travelling at 15mph the temp resumed to normal within 10seconds. The second time it rose to 3/4 it was getting driven hard at speed i wont say how fast (public forum etc) but as soon as i backed off the throttle for ten seconds and temp dropped and reapplied to the same speed it didnt rise. This is when we had the excessive heat wave ie 28 to 30

So it hasnt done it since and im still stumped to why it done it, ive travelled the same hill and have driven it hard on the flat and up hills and it wont do it anymore. It doesnt loose water and isnt pressurizing the system it has had a sniff test and it comes back clear.

Im thinking of plumbing in a seperate temp gauge to see what it shows but i havent got round to it yet. So im going to watch this thread with interest. One thing i forgot is it has had it matrix o rings done last yr not that it makes a difference

 

[gfromleeds]

It wont over heat when stood the fan still spins fast enough to keep it cool
as you say it only does it underload so take it for a good blast

 

[Grit Valve]

It wont over heat when stood the fan still spins fast enough to keep it cool
as you say it only does it underload so take it for a good blast

Not if the fan is not locking properly it won't suck air in enough .

 

[Grit Valve]

Im having similar problems to you mine has rose to 3/4 heat and then back down to the original 12oclock

I had a failing waterpump but that I mean I had a small weap of coolant I replaced the water pump with metal one the original was a metal one too. I replaced the thermostat because I was there I tested the old one and it worked so did the new one, temp gauge never got past the first line so I removed the temp sender found it to be slightly dirty cleaned it up and put it back, the rad was flushed and came back clear, it was pressure filled via a vacuum device so no air lock. The rad get evenly warm and the viscous fan is working, the overflow pipe is clear and is working correctly. It has the correct mix of coolant.

Mine rose to 3/4 once when going up a long steep hill in traffic at 15mph as soon as i was at the top and the load removed and still travelling at 15mph the temp resumed to normal within 10seconds. The second time it rose to 3/4 it was getting driven hard at speed i wont say how fast (public forum etc) but as soon as i backed off the throttle for ten seconds and temp dropped and reapplied to the same speed it didnt rise. This is when we had the excessive heat wave ie 28 to 30

So it hasnt done it since and im still stumped to why it done it, ive travelled the same hill and have driven it hard on the flat and up hills and it wont do it anymore. It doesnt loose water and isnt pressurizing the system it has had a sniff test and it comes back clear.

Im thinking of plumbing in a seperate temp gauge to see what it shows but i havent got round to it yet. So im going to watch this thread with interest. One thing i forgot is it has had it matrix o rings done last yr not that it makes a difference

same here wierd huh I'm thinking although newish rad its must be not big enough or partial block I'm thinking of getting a double cord rad its bigger and disperses heat better I saw them somewhere can't remember now . Neve happens it the cooler months that what makes me think its just enough on the cooling side ? It some prat has put rad seal some time in its life who knows know evidence if it iv had this car three years and no problems although this has been the hottest summer!

 

[Datatek]

No parts **** part all oem good makes metal w pump think fan was hellua or similar bosch t/star only done 16000 since nothing really only thing I can think of is caravan is so big it causes to much drag compared to a trailer .
It seems this is such a common problem I'm thinking fit a fan instead of the viscous .
I know you have a override data but I would prefer my fan to suck the air like the v fan not try and push with your mod through the condensor its my only option now I think as I'm not buying another bloody useless v fan they just don't last!!!

All the air will pass through the condenser, intercooler etc whether the fan blows or sucks. Blowers are more efficient.

 

[donp38]

Grit Valve.

if you have two identical p38 and one does and the other doesn't over heat.
1st is this something you can absolutely replicate?

If it is, then I would suggest a thermostat check in a glass bowl of water maybe video it also. Check rate of opening of the thermostats as well as the max opening.

I carry a butchered thermostat so that if I get a problem I can effectively run without one. this is a get out of sh1t 'spare' and not a solution.

Data' aircon mod is fab...

 

[Grit Valve]

All the air will pass through the condenser, intercooler etc whether the fan blows or sucks. Blowers are more efficient.

Data I would of thought it could still draw air in from the gap in between but in saying that data , I just thought I haven't checked my condenser lately you might just of hit the jackpot stupid me why didn't I think of that restricted air flow I will check this weekend cool

 

[Grit Valve]

Grit Valve.

if you have two identical p38 and one does and the other doesn't over heat.
1st is this something you can absolutely replicate?

If it is, then I would suggest a thermostat check in a glass bowl of water maybe video it also. Check rate of opening of the thermostats as well as the max opening.

I carry a butchered thermostat so that if I get a problem I can effectively run without one. this is a get out of sh1t 'spare' and not a solution.

Data' aircon mod is fab...

Good idear but I don't like pulling things apart unless needed ie the other one +
Although I oftern fix the brother in laws one don't think he will be too happy eek

 

[donp38]

ok.
I had lots of trouble with thermostats.
my suggestion would be to get a BMW one from LR. think its around £38 I paid.

It fixed my issues..
I would suggest you get this and then do the same test with the one with problems.
best of luck.

 

[Grit Valve]

ok.
I had lots of trouble with thermostats.
my suggestion would be to get a BMW one from LR. think its around £38 I paid.

It fixed my issues..
I would suggest you get this and then do the same test with the one with problems.
best of luck.

Ok will do cheap easy enough but I must check air flow through condensor as I haven't yet thanks

 

[Grit Valve]

Right then to day I've whipped the condensor off including fans as one,as I don't use
My air con was a bit dirty but not as bad as I was expecting the inter cooler and oil cooler as you all well know are inbetween they both have a very slight weep , that doesn't concern me .
but where the inter cooler had a weep onto my nice clear rad the oil patch has allowed dirt to stick to it I've cleaned every thing up carefuly put in all back together and guess what
No overheating any more yea!!!!

So chaps all I can say is if your having problems and you replaced the usual suspects
Better start looking at your condensor intercooler and oil cooler ,
As if these are blocked you won't be getting much air in!

Good luck ....

 

[gfromleeds]

Hows best to clean them as mine starting to get cloged up with flys

 

[Grit Valve]

I've and ajustible steam cleaner I can alter the pressure and lots air too
You must be very Carefull some use just air I use jizer and water.

 

[gfromleeds]

I've and ajustible steam cleaner I can alter the pressure and lots air too
You must be very Carefull some use just air I use jizer and water.

Ive a pressure washer will that harm owt?