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Agreed.... Went to them once, they said my engine had cracked block and wouldn't last more than a few hundred miles, sold me an overpriced MAF & said that was part of the problem.. 4 years & 30k later I had it rebuilt when it did blow the head on no 1, not by them but by someone who knows RV8's..

The rear ones are more accessible,once you find out where they are, behind the rear light clusters on a D2...

OK, just that I had issues with mine running rough, misfiring, refusing to go closed loop etc.Traced the problem with aid of Faultmate to the reccomended LR platenum Champion plugs, new set lasted just 8k miles & they went down one by one, replaced with Bosch Supers that originally came with car...

Out of curiosity what spark plugs are you using Bill?

Have you cleaned & checked the plugs carefully, mine was doing exactly the same with my Faultmate indicating a persistant misfire cyl 1, plug looked ok at first but when cleaned up with some electrical solvent & a toothbrush a hairline crack was revealed, fitting a new plug & doing an adaptive...

The temp & rpm that the changeover happens is adjustable in the LPG ECU software, you will need the correct disk & a laptop, or alternativly take to an installer who's familiar with Zavoli. Mine has been taking a while to change over recently, put it down to low ambient temps & use of the...

If the MAF is buggered the Faultmate should pick it up with either a fault code or some funny air flow readings in the live data. Reason why it runs better after the MAF is disconnected is probably due to the ECU reverting to open loop default fueling when it detects a problem with the air flow...

A very late model D2 V8 stage 2 lump with around 270 bhp. 6 Speed Manual box from D3.

Propshaft U/J's or the rubber doughnut on it's way out...? Failing that possible hub bearing on it's way, 3 amigos appear sometime due the the sensors being out of alignment caused by play in the bearing..

Just traced a missfire & rough running to cyl 1 plug inner insulator being cracked in two, lucky the hard bit of ceramic didn't decide to break free & damage the head & piston....:rolleyes: Bought 2 replacements from LR dealer today at £8 ea. Plugs are the LR reccomended Champion Platenum...

Have a BBS Faultmate & can drive light 'on' via PC. Have had car running very rough but no light but also no sensors shown as failed. I know some other makes of car that seem to switch them on every few hundred miles & the engine seems to be running fine, The Vauxhall cars & vans at work...

Possible coil pack on the way out, mine went like that ok at idle & crusing but not when you revved it or put your foot down.. Traced fault using some in line testers, soon as you revved the spark went weak on cyl 3

Has anyone ever had theirs come on & stay on? Had mine running like a sack of ****e before & the lamp stays out! Which faults cause it to come on, can find no list in RAVE??

Must be a sequential with a D2 otherwise it will never run right as the previous owner of my car found out when he had to fit a new sequential front end system at a cost of 2k all up.......... Zavoli system, had car nearly 4 years no problems at all with LPG system itself. Whatever system...

2 x 35lt underslung tanks, around 60 lt useable capacity, 200 miles local driving but can get up to 230 ish on a run... 4.0 D2 Manual, sequential system

In between fixing & driving Disco 2..... a few months ago I got to play with this..... THE ultimate combo of turbo lag & overfueling:D:D YouTube - 37906 Flame Throwing again !!!

First thing I would do is get an independent to run a diagnostic on the M 5.2.1 ECU and see what fault codes are there before considering repacing the ECU! From what I understand it takes a major fault on a UK market car to put the light on, mine has run like a bag of ****e at times with...

Similar problem to mine, but mine is speed related, take an age for revs to drop when travelling above around 35 mph fine up to that. Not found a cause or cure yet, TPS has been changed along with lots of other stuff... Nothing untoward on the diagnostics either...

Unfortunatly with great difficulty without removing the upper inlet manifold..

Pressure transducers are known to fail & give out of bounds pressure signals which will shut down the system, had exactly the same problem with mine, faultmate diagnosed out of bounds readings, replaced sensor & now all OK...