What running temperature

A 4cyl Rad isn't really sufficiant add on all the silt and shít that will be inside that radiator if the exterior is anything to go by i'd wager that'll be your issue.

So, after what seems like a very long time, I managed to get deeper behind the engine. Took the bonnet off (which I'd so light once the spare wheel is removed!). Removed air box to reveal the in and out coolant hoses from/ to the engine and through the bulhead to the funny aftermarket heater. They were past there best and a bit misshapen but not lose or split. I took them off to find that one of the through pipes to the bulkhead was very corroded, full of crumbly limescale type crud and powder. Dry as a bone too. See photo.

So I'm going to find some suitable hose and by pass the heater (as suggested) by connecting the input and output coolant connections on the back of the engine to see if that cures it. My only concern is that without a heater matrix it might still run hot.

NowayPedro said:

So, after what seems like a very long time, I managed to get deeper behind the engine. Took the bonnet off (which I'd so light once the spare wheel is removed!). Removed air box to reveal the in and out coolant hoses from/ to the engine and through the bulhead to the funny aftermarket heater. They were past there best and a bit misshapen but not lose or split. I took them off to find that one of the through pipes to the bulkhead was very corroded, full of crumbly limescale type crud and powder. Dry as a bone too. See photo.

So I'm going to find some suitable hose and by pass the heater (as suggested) by connecting the input and output coolant connections on the back of the engine to see if that cures it. My only concern is that without a heater matrix it might still run hot.

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Wouldn't surprise me if that stuff in the pipe is dissolved engine. That has been run without antifreeze for a long time.

With a standard engine, there is a tap so that you can turn off the heater matrix in hot weather, but the engine still cools adequately.
With the extra heat of a V8, and probably an undersized rad for the engine, I can't say.

Hope it's not disoved engine! I'm going to see if this improves the situation. Then I'll go down the new rad route and then deal with the heater.

Good start on the hoses but as said before that rad really isn't big enough for a V8.

Yes. A new one is definitely on the proiority list. Just want to get it running first without it losing all its coolant.

Need to buy a length of hose now that I can bend back on itself without it kinking and and that fits the v8 coolant connections. John Craddock?

you can buy flexi hose on ebay

Just ordered some. Thanks very much !

Thought I’d give you an update as managed a small window of opportunity today. Managed to join the coolant input and output pipes together at the back of the engine with some hose to bypass the corroded aftermarket heater in the cab. But filled up with water and it’s still leaking out the back of the engine just below the said hose bypass. Water filling the manifold area too. So does look like a valley gasket job as someone on here suggested (thank you). Taken the manifold off. Lots of corroded bolts, and a soggy valley area. And nasty looking valley gasket that looks well past its best. Although it didn’t leak until I back flushed the engine and replaced a missing thermostat!

Anyway, read a lot about changing the valley gasket and then it still leaking which I obviously want to avoid. I’m going to clean up surfaces well. Do I use gasket sealant? Shall I change the bolts? What are the corner seals I’ve heard about and John Craddock doesn’t seem to sell the gasket I don’t think. Do you know of other good Landy suppliers who might? Any other gems of advice?

Thank you

Paul.

With a new composite valley gasket, sealant isn't needed or a good idea just make sure the surface is clean as a whistle

The only other seals you'll have to replace are two rubber valley end seals which are held down by a metal plate with a 1/2 bolt through the centre, it's a good idea to put some rtv on the end of those rubber seals when refitting.

That is brilliant thanks so much. I did wonder wot people were on about when they mention the seals. I tookk the two metal plates off and didn't even notice the seals. They could well be the culprit. !

Where do suggest I get these bits from? Gasket too.

NowayPedro said:

That is brilliant thanks so much. I did wonder wot people were on about when they mention the seals. I tookk the two metal plates off and didn't even notice the seals. They could well be the culprit. !

Where do suggest I get these bits from? Gasket too.

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I got everything from Rimmer bros.

Henry_b said:

I got everything from Rimmer bros.

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Thank you. !

Hello good people.

Shall I buy the tin valley gasket or the composite one. I’m leaning towards the latter and it doesn’t require sealant.
Thanks a lot,

Pall.

Composite is the 'upgrade' to the metal one

Yes. I'm thinking that's the one cheers. I'm off to buy some bits!
Thinking of using my multi tool with the light sand paper fitting to clean the manifold surfaces. Good or bad idea?

I’m now wondering if it could be the steel (?) pipe that is attached to the underneath of the manifold that runs the whole length of it front to back. It seems a fair old a steady flow of water from the valley to be just a gasket leak. It did look rusty when I lifted up and half removed the manifold.

Sand paper will be too rough, gasket faces need to be smooth and flat.
I've used a rag soaked in before cleaner to remove any residue to good effect, if you're careful a wide, blunt blade can work well as a scraper to remove stubbern gasket remains

The rubber seals at each end of the valley gasket harden over time & are a source of oil leaks esp at the rear.
You may need to change to the later valley gasket clamps & seals if you use the composite gasket. I did.

Clean the faces of the heads & inlet manifold. Thinners & a rag work well - careful use of a scotchpad or the abrasive bit off one of the non-scratch kitchen sponges with thinners will speed it up.

Won't do any harm to put a smear of hylomar around the water passages even though you are using the later valley gasket.
You need to put a pea sized blob of sealant at the rear where the heads & block meet. RTV is fine.

Possible the end of the steel pipe is badly corroded where the hose pushes on & leaking. Mine was. I knew I had a leak somewhere at the top of the engine - running off the end of the valley & down the back of the block.
Cleaned mine up, filled the pitting with JB Weld & sanded smooth. No issues since.

Before starting to take it all apart I'd suggest thoroughly cleaning everything then using a pressure pump to pressurise the system to look for leaks. That's how I found the steel pipe leak, but I had to use an inspection camera to get into the area to see exactly where the source was. If you haven't got one/access to one you can buy ones that you use with a smart phone on ebay.

Worth a read: www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/my-failed-valley-gasket.273925/