What running temperature

Think my RV8 from a defender is running too hot. What temperature should they run at? It’s got after market cooling fans and it’s in a series 3.

Thank you

P.

Does the Series temp gauge need a different sensor in the engine?

I know if you put a disco 200tdi in place of a 2.5n/a the gauge reads very hot unless you swap out the sensor.

What temp is it actually running at?

As above, got to match the gauge with the sender.
What is at now and how and where measured?

Depends a bit on whether it's on carbs, EFi, cc and the thermostat used i.e. 78*C (ETC4761), 82*C (ETC4763) and 88*C (ETC4765)

I've a 3.5 efi with viscous fan and 82*C stat in a 90 and it runs at just over 80*C (VDO gage and sender) but I think the later bigger V8 use the 88*C and I think on carbs usually about 78*C.

Cheers people. It has a separate gauge which works from a capillary sensor on the rad. And is calibrated for this engine apparently.
It got to 100 deg by the time I finished my short journey on the A4 to get petrol and back probably 5 miles? Bit of traffic but nothing major. I thought I wouldn’t test it further but there was no sign of it not continuing to rise.
It’s running twin SU’s.

What are the aftermarket fans doing, they should have kicked in surely? so I would be checking them first as that is getting hot and you shouldn't see that IMO

I take it its new to you Landy, there isnt a switch for manual operation of the fans is there?

Forget the gumpf about its a calibrated gauge for that engine, a capillary gauge will show good on any .

J

NowayPedro said:

Cheers people. It has a separate gauge which works from a capillary sensor on the rad. And is calibrated for this engine apparently.
It got to 100 deg by the time I finished my short journey on the A4 to get petrol and back probably 5 miles? Bit of traffic but nothing major. I thought I wouldn’t test it further but there was no sign of it not continuing to rise.
It’s running twin SU’s.

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Much too hot. Try and get the fans going as a stopgap measure.

In the long run, you will be much better off with viscous fan, electric are always trouble.

marjon said:

What are the aftermarket fans doing, they should have kicked in surely? so I would be checking them first as that is getting hot and you shouldn't see that IMO

I take it its new to you Landy, there isnt a switch for manual operation of the fans is there?

Forget the gumpf about its a calibrated gauge for that engine, a capillary gauge will show good on any .

J

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Yes, very new to me. Got a feeling only one is kicking in. Will check that fully next. Cheers for all the advice and help. Much appreciated.

NowayPedro said:

Yes, very new to me. Got a feeling only one is kicking in. Will check that fully next. Cheers for all the advice and help. Much appreciated.

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I suggest you don't drive it until you have sorted the cooling/fans whatever.
I agree with @Turboman about viscous fan, fit and forget.
100C is too hot and you'll cook the engine/blow a gasket. V8s get hot and need A1 condition rad, hoses, pump, fan and cowling if viscous.
A single working electric fan on a twin-set up won't be enough for a V8; I had a single 12" thermostatically controlled electric fan and ditched it for a viscous and shroud as I was running about 90C on the electric which was switching on and off the whole time.

All the above is sound advice. Viscous fans work well when working as do good old fashioned direct fans.
But engines can be cooled with electric fans if everything works, and I dont know what has been done to fit the V8 in the series as to available space.
I run 2 vehicles with electric fans and both work fine. 1 I have never heard the fan come on (had to test it to make sure it worked )
The other only comes on in stop start traffic or heat sink on parking after slow drive in, So they can be setup to work.

But this all depends on many other things.

Have you got pics of the fan setup and how is it triggered? there may be an adjustment for 1on, 2on, Pics would help.

You could temp rig them to both come on all the time engine is running and then take for a little drive to see what you have. (be carefull though).

What Rad is fitted? again pics will help if you are not sure.

J

NowayPedro said:

Yes, very new to me. Got a feeling only one is kicking in. Will check that fully next. Cheers for all the advice and help. Much appreciated.

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If in doubt, remove the thermostat, and replace the housing. See what happens like that.
At least it is less likely to overheat like that, and indicates that the fault is with the fans, not lack of radiator capacity.

Brilliant. Thank you everyone. I'll take pictures and check if only one fan is working i'll get both working and go from there. As i don't really want to change the fans for a viscous fan unless I find my current set up really isn't up to the job.

Thermostat removal is a good shout too.

Do u think if I add coolant as apposed to just water it would help? Or just by a couple of degrees?

Also is adding a viscous fan tricky? Do they come with the necessary cowling or do you have to fabricate them?

All the best to you Landy Gurus!

P.

NowayPedro said:

Brilliant. Thank you everyone. I'll take pictures and check if only one fan is working i'll get both working and go from there. As i don't really want to change the fans for a viscous fan unless I find my current set up really isn't up to the job.

Thermostat removal is a good shout too.

Do u think if I add coolant as apposed to just water it would help? Or just by a couple of degrees?

Also is adding a viscous fan tricky? Do they come with the necessary cowling or do you have to fabricate them?

All the best to you Landy Gurus!

P.

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Antifreeze is no more effective at conducting heat than water.

It's main purpose is to prevent frost damage, other purpose is to prevent corrosion.

I don't know how easy it is to fit a viscous fan to a V8 in a Series. They are very easy to fit on the standard engines.

NowayPedro said:

Thermostat removal is a good shout too.

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Only as a temporary measure to check circulation etc.

NowayPedro said:

Do u think if I add coolant as apposed to just water it would help? Or just by a couple of degrees?

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Yes! Don't run the V8 without antifreeze, it's an alloy block and will corrode in water, and water doesn't transfer heat as well as water+antifreeze.

NowayPedro said:

Also is adding a viscous fan tricky? Do they come with the necessary cowling or do you have to fabricate them?

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No, the viscous screws on but the shroud might be harder to find. Not hard to fab one but is needed or air will just be pushed around the engine bay rather than through the rad.

Good reading about the V8....

cappers said:

Only as a temporary measure to check circulation etc.

Yes! Don't run the V8 without antifreeze, it's an alloy block and will corrode in water, and water doesn't transfer heat as well as water+antifreeze.

No, the viscous screws on but the shroud might be harder to find. Not hard to fab one but is needed or air will just be pushed around the engine bay rather than through the rad.

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Viscous fans work OK without a shroud, as do the metal fans.

On consideration, I think a Series that age would have had a metal fan as standard. The V8 might have had viscous as standard, or metal if it is an early one.

cappers said:

Good reading about the V8....

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That was very good. Thank you for sharing!

P.

Hello all. I fixed one of the after market fans. Which wasn't working. That didn't stop it getting really hot. So I went to change the thermostat to find there wasn't one in the housing! So a new thermostat won't help. Right?
Any suggestions. The water pump isn't noisy? I'm flummoxed.

Exactly what V8 do you have?
Time to make sure the system is clean and flushed. check the rad is not blocked. I had a truck that was fine normally then overheated when towing cos half the rad was blocked. replaced that and all was fine.

Do you feel an even cooling temp on the rad as you touch from top to bottom. Or any cold spots in the middle.

J

marjon said:

Exactly what V8 do you have?
Time to make sure the system is clean and flushed. check the rad is not blocked. I had a truck that was fine normally then overheated when towing cos half the rad was blocked. replaced that and all was fine.

Do you feel an even cooling temp on the rad as you touch from top to bottom. Or any cold spots in the middle.

J

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It's from a range rover classic. 1983. I can't check the rad yet coz I've drained the system but that is a good shout. Going to flush it now with a hose pipe. Do I take the top hose off and flush it through the hose back into the engine or into the top of the rad?