td4 starting prob

I'd be interested to see what your cure is. We have the same problem on our freelander. I thought it was probably injectors leaking back overnight as once warm, and not left switched off for more than 4 or 5 hours, she'll start just fine.

New glow plugs have been fitted.

I will, however, check the high pressure fuel pump connections.

John/Fur Trapper, if you could post the link up of the thread to which you were referring, I'd be very grateful - I've searched for it in the F/L forum, but couldn't find anything with that date stamp or author.

twin_cam_turbo said:

I'd be interested to see what your cure is. We have the same problem on our freelander. I thought it was probably injectors leaking back overnight as once warm, and not left switched off for more than 4 or 5 hours, she'll start just fine.

New glow plugs have been fitted.

I will, however, check the high pressure fuel pump connections.

John/Fur Trapper, if you could post the link up of the thread to which you were referring, I'd be very grateful - I've searched for it in the F/L forum, but couldn't find anything with that date stamp or author.

Click to expand...

All I did for the problem was went to goggle and typed in TD4 land rover hard starting and the info came up. You might want to type in Freelander TD4 land rover hard starting, to get more specifit search. good luck

Perfect FT
Many thanks.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelander-td4-hard-starting-emerging-smoke-25723.html

twin_cam_turbo said:

Perfect FT
Many thanks.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelander-td4-hard-starting-emerging-smoke-25723.html

Click to expand...

I did that on a google search

To update on this situation cleaning the manifold does smooth the engine out but the new glow plugs have not changed anything. Starting on the button is slowly getting less reliable and certainly a slight "running on two" as the engine ejects the fuel that has not ignited in a puff of smoke is now more noticeable. The injector pressure seems to be the culprit as the leak back test indicated. Still waiting to find a rebuild specialist in the Sussex area???

To bring it up to date New glow plugs have been fitted and was not the problem, If the weather goes cold enough to bring the light on then it starts fine but it's not cured. Going to have the injectors tested and overhauled at a Bosch specialist in mid October when I have some time off, in the mean time I have made myself a puller and tried a few other bits. Shell super Diesel made no difference at all so I am now 120 miles into £60 of Tesco diesel and a bottle of STP injector cleaner. It dawned on me tonight that I can't remember the last time I had a problem and the smoke is certainly less than before.
It might just be the cleaner is more combustible and certainly it still has a bit more knock under acceleration than I would like, will try and run the leak back test again before I get the injectors done. Will take pics if I have time.

Though I would run another leakback from cold now the cleaner has run through and add a few pics.



First you need to remove the cover and look for the injectors.


Then remove the screw and unplug the harness for access



Clamp the return pipe and I like to fully remove the retaining clips but you can just push them in.



Take the tester and attach it to the injectors, make sure they go all the way home and insert the clips if they don't feel firm. You will need to plug the harneess back in!



Hang them up to the bonnet hook and start her up. Once one is 3/4 full stop the engine and remove the pipes. Best to squeeze them to prevent the fuel running back out and then hold them high so the pipe empties into the bottle.



Find a flat bit (kitchen) and check the levels 74-79-71-88 is what I have here. Now it's still out of spec but the cleaner appears to have lowered the tolerance from 17% to 11% and starting as I said is much improved. The fuel booster that came with the cleaner didn't appear to do anything and slightly worse maybe. Now the bike has been put away for winter I will pursue the fault and post the results once a pro has tested the injectors.

What a lovely clean engine, Mate.

I've been following your thread for 4 months waiting to see how this finishes.

Keep at it - you'll get it fixed yet.

So Shell V-Power made no difference? Did you only try the one tankful?

Can I suggest that you stop using supermarket diesel as it's dirty smoky stuff. Morrisons is even worse than Tesco or Asda in my experience.

Putting in the expensive cleaner just about counteracts it, but it doesn't really clean it for any length of time as you're putting more cheap stuff in!

I'd give the premium diesel a longer try - and add 200ml of 2-stroke oil per tankful.
Tesco's basic cheapest 2T is good for this! Don't use synthetic stuff. After a few tankfuls everything will be much cleaner - pump, injectors, combustion chambers, etc. And the engine will be quieter. TD4s like 2-stroke.

I'm not saying this is a miracle cure but all the crap in the system doesn't help.

Good luck.

Hi to all, yes I have an answer but time for a quick recap. All breathing mods and filters have been done and running a Synergy II setting 2 - once upon a time I would get in turn the key and let the idiot lights to go out, then one turn and it would always fire up. Then I had a few occasions after it had sat for several hours where it almost didn't start and from there on in large plumes of diesel smoke always followed on cold starts. After that all the testing started and the leak back test indicated two of the injectors where different (see all my other post) but last week with cash in pocket and a doo or die mood I removed the injectors and delivered them to Auto-marine diesel on the outskirts of Brighton. This I knew would not be my cheapest option but I needed to know outright if these where the problem and sure enough they where knackered. Two of the units had lost 60% of their starting pressure, so along with pressure imbalance it certainly would affect starting and in most cases tick over problems. I didn't have a tick over problem that I noticed but all the other mods to free up the breathing probably kept it within reasonable limits. Now they advised me to buy 4 new injectors as the labour cost for testing and rebuilding all 4 would be almost the same price but the reconditioned unit would carry a full 12 month warranty. So 24hr later in they go and everything is as it should be. So you can nurse your injectors for quite some time but if they fail the test and no doubt you have done all the cheap bits then it's time for a new set of injectors - with the cost of diesel now it's probably false economy to run them as long as I did but I only put 3K on the clock last year so I am fortunate it's not my only ride.

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Next up an inter cooler flush and some new hoses - which raises the question
Why is the air temperature sensor included with a new hose? do they need to be replaced as I was going to get some silicon ones and use my original sensor.

Hi Greg,

Good to hear that you've got it fixed.

Can I ask how much the set of new injectors cost?

About the temp sensor - I've never heard of this coming with the hose.
I have fitted the 3 piece silicone turbo hoses and just transferred the original sensor to the new hoses.
Check on DPH website:
Freelander TD4

Caio,

Singvogel. :cool2:

Hi Singvogel, they cost £600 so probably £150 to £200 would have been mark up for their testing and carriage etc, but like I said I needed to know that I wasn't masking over any other problem. Hence why I havn't clocked up many miles last year.

Check out ebay UK as several of the Genuine LR inter-cooler hoses have a black dumb bell shaped connector instead of the billet ally item like yours and mine.

eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace

Greg,

I looked at that Guy Salmon part, and unless you have a faulty sensor you don't need that.

I would suggest that you go ahead and get the silicone hoses and just refit the sensor you have already.

S.

Hi S.

Was certainly heading that way and will give the dealer a chance before going down the DPH route, 200.1 on a 2 stroke mix sounds a sensible option now.

As an update to everything I have just mot'd the car with the following.
EGR bypass - synergy II set to 2 with maf on and power off - Tesco 2 stroke in tank - cat internals removed (see wasp nest) vortex breather - K&N filter - new injectors - original Bosch maf on 93900 Miles and complete degrease and it passed with a mean coefficient of 0.69 1/m
A quick flick of the switch and smiles all round, thanks for all advice to date.