Disco 2 Some chassis swap questions

Well, it's come round sooner than I'd hoped - won't pass the MOT with the current chassis. We've been saving, but aren't in a position to get the brand new galvanised one that we'd planned; but my mechanic has found one that's apparently in fantastic condition. Far from ideal, but that's just where we are.

So the first question is that my mechanic is talking about powder coating, which is fine and makes sense; but I could probably get it galvanised for a little more. Obviously galvanised is better; but how much better? On a 20 year old car and used chassis (however good condition) am I going to see the difference between them at the end of the day?

Other than that, it's just what things are there to do/check while doing the swap? I know I have a leak from some of the gearbox seals, so may as well sort that of course. And I would imagine that checking the clutch would be good; but I believe a new one was fitted not long before I got it three years ago (digging out the paperwork to check). Thinking engine/gearbox mounts, brake pipes, handbrake shoes; what else should I be looking at?

Everyone's list of what must, should, could, might, be replaced is as individual as their registration numbers. You will find out as you go - but it will be a lot more than you think, will take a lot longer than you think, will cost a lot more than you think (or want), will cause tears and pain, you will question your sanity, your sex life will suffer, and at the end of the day....it WILL be worth it!

My own journey : https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/d2-chassis-replacement.326340/

Presumably he would arrange to blast the chassis first?. Personally I'm not a fan of powder coating, if the paint chips rust spreads under the hard coating. I know bull bars are now rare but they showed the weakness of this coating, they all rotted.
I'd be tempted to use a good quality paint (not hammerite) and spray annually with Dinitrol or Lanogard (if that's the correct spelling)
For the inside the most important area, I'd use a mix of gear oil for its creeping ability and Dinitrol. Other advices may differ.

Kenbo said:

Presumably he would arrange to blast the chassis first?. Personally I'm not a fan of powder coating, if the paint chips rust spreads under the hard coating. I know bull bars are now rare but they showed the weakness of this coating, they all rotted.

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Oh yeah, will be blasted before coating for sure. I guess a proper galvanising bath would help avoid that particular issue too, wouldn't it. Food for thought.

Another thought, check your inner wings at the bulkhead, possibly remove the plastic guards under the wings to have a proper look. Also check the sills, boot floor, I'm not sure of other rust spots. If you find any serious corrosion then you have to question how far you should go.
I don't know enough yet about these Discos but would a part chassis be adequate?

Don't powdercoat it..

All it does is chip, and then moisture gets in underneath and it rots.

The coating then comes off in sheets revealing shagged metal..

To be be fair you'd be better off using a farm supply enamel based tractor paint.

thats what I used to use on equipment that was chassis deep in shít and it never seemed to wear off.

Or park it up and keep saving, no use selling yourself short on 2nd hand chassis that could be rotting from the inside out!

Kenbo said:

Another thought, check your inner wings at the bulkhead, possibly remove the plastic guards under the wings to have a proper look. Also check the sills, boot floor, I'm not sure of other rust spots. If you find any serious corrosion then you have to question how far you should go.
I don't know enough yet about these Discos but would a part chassis be adequate?

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Good point to have a check around the body; but I'm under the impression it's in pretty decent nick. Part chassis aren't great from what I hear; plus I think my rust is all over the place.

Henry_b said:

Don't powdercoat it..
All it does is chip, and then moisture gets in underneath and it rots.
The coating then comes off in sheets revealing shagged metal..
To be be fair you'd be better off using a farm supply enamel based tractor paint.
thats what I used to use on equipment that was chassis deep in shít and it never seemed to wear off.

Or park it up and keep saving, no use selling yourself short on 2nd hand chassis that could be rotting from the inside out!

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So something like this https://www.taindustrialpaints.co.u...ailer-enamel-paints-cheaper-popular-colours/? I guess then I could pick a fun colour, and it'd show up chips and whatever. What do you reckon the volume of the hollow bits of the chassis is? Could fill them up with paint then pour it back out to protect the inside well too haha. Worth using on any other bits that connect to the chassis too?

Parking isn't really an option; I've got nowhere to leave it SORN, and after spending what we have now on a car to continue using in the meantime, it'll take about a year to get to the point of being able to afford it.

Naf623 said:

So something like this https://www.taindustrialpaints.co.u...ailer-enamel-paints-cheaper-popular-colours/? I guess then I could pick a fun colour, and it'd show up chips and whatever. What do you reckon the volume of the hollow bits of the chassis is? Could fill them up with paint then pour it back out to protect the inside well too haha. Worth using on any other bits that connect to the chassis too?

Parking isn't really an option; I've got nowhere to leave it SORN, and after spending what we have now on a car to continue using in the meantime, it'll take about a year to get to the point of being able to afford it.

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Yep that stuff will do.

If the metal has been blasted some acid etch primer under that i'd recommend.

as for the inside of the chassis waxoyl or dinitrol, an Oil based coating would be better on the inside.

Henry_b said:

If the metal has been blasted some acid etch primer under that i'd recommend.

as for the inside of the chassis waxoyl or dinitrol, an Oil based coating would be better on the inside.

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Any ideas how much of them I'd need?
Also, I read a suggestion about cutting the end caps off the hollow bits to help get rust out; would that work? Would it make for a better sand blast and stuff?

Naf623 said:

Any ideas how much of them I'd need?
Also, I read a suggestion about cutting the end caps off the hollow bits to help get rust out; would that work? Would it make for a better sand blast and stuff?

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I used 7 litres of waxoyl in my chassis, probably a tad excessive..

If you have proper equipment, like the dinitrol gun/wand the coating can be a tad more effective and you use less.

I personally wouldn't cut anything off the chassis

Henry_b said:

I used 7 litres of waxoyl in my chassis, probably a tad excessive..

If you have proper equipment, like the dinitrol gun/wand the coating can be a tad more effective and you use less.

I personally wouldn't cut anything off the chassis

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7 litres does seem like a lot to cover what's not really a large area haha.

I wouldn't be doing any cutting personally lol. And I don't mean permanently; just for the process of cleaning/treating and welding back on after.

Naf623 said:

7 litres does seem like a lot to cover what's not really a large area haha.

I wouldn't be doing any cutting personally lol. And I don't mean permanently; just for the process of cleaning/treating and welding back on after.

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Yeah it was quite a bit to be fair..

What I did was remove the rear bumper and plugged up all the drain holes..

With the waxoyl in a bucket of hot water I reversed her up a very steep bank on the farm and with a large funnel just poured a can in each chassis box section..

then with everything still plugged up I took her for a hoon around the fields to coat the inside remove the bungs once its set and ya good

rather unorthodox but it did work.

LOL

Forget about the car for a moment just think money, if you bought one with a good chassis how much would it cost? then rust proof that, if you scraped this one or just used it for parts what would it be worth? how much is it going to cost to change chassis for another that is nearly or over 20 years old and how long before that is the same? If you can find the money for a galv then do it, if not save your money,
but saying that if it was mine would I scrap it? would I F##k

Ian M in France said:

Forget about the car for a moment just think money, if you bought one with a good chassis how much would it cost? then rust proof that, if you scraped this one or just used it for parts what would it be worth? how much is it going to cost to change chassis for another that is nearly or over 20 years old and how long before that is the same? If you can find the money for a galv then do it, if not save your money,
but saying that if it was mine would I scrap it? would I F##k

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I've also got to consider the work that's gone into this one to fettle various bits, which could easily crop up again when buying an unknown new one. Better the devil you know in that respect, really.

Re filling the chassis with some protective product, could make things very smelly or even flammable if anyone had to carry out some welding in the future.

Naf623 said:

I've also got to consider the work that's gone into this one to fettle various bits, which could easily crop up again when buying an unknown new one. Better the devil you know in that respect, really.

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I can understand that, but how much do you think chassis change will be ? how much is a galv chassis? £3500 if you spend that bit more you will have something for life?

Kenbo said:

Presumably he would arrange to blast the chassis first?. Personally I'm not a fan of powder coating, if the paint chips rust spreads under the hard coating. I know bull bars are now rare but they showed the weakness of this coating, they all rotted.
I'd be tempted to use a good quality paint (not hammerite) and spray annually with Dinitrol or Lanogard (if that's the correct spelling)
For the inside the most important area, I'd use a mix of gear oil for its creeping ability and Dinitrol. Other advices may differ.

Click to expand...

I agree about powder coating, I wouldn't use it on a chassis (or anything else come to that for the reasons you mentioned) as it can't get inside the chassis & as they rot from the inside out galvanising has to be the way to go along with yearly treatment of any decent stuff you can spray inside it for extra protection.

Kenbo said:

Re filling the chassis with some protective product, could make things very smelly or even flammable if anyone had to carry out some welding in the future.

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use it post not pre welding.

I'm thinking, lots of people repair their vehicles and fill the cavities with something to protect them. A few years ahead, if welding is necessary, could be a fire risk.