p38 dse dti pump timing cheap solution!

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6704nathan

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just thought i would post my findings on a cost effective solution to timing the injection pump on the bmw engine.
after replacing my injection pump i had to guess the timing as i couldnt find any sensible way of dialling in the pump and because of this i had to fit a hotstart kit as obviously the timing is not spot on
the items you will need are sealey tools part num ak9634m for the dti on sale at the moment for around £20
also the adaptor to screw in the pump sealey used to do a 3 in 1 tool which apparently they are stopping making so i found from america via ebay number 370483411322 fits perfect in the pump and dti sits in perfect only modification needed was the shorter of the 2 adaptors had to be shortened by about 5mm ( rod that screws in dti ) and hey presto works perfectly total cost £45! hope this helps anyone with hot start problems as it has cured mine!:)
 
6704nathan said:
just thought i would post my findings on a cost effective solution to timing the injection pump on the bmw engine.
after replacing my injection pump i had to guess the timing as i couldnt find any sensible way of dialling in the pump and because of this i had to fit a hotstart kit as obviously the timing is not spot on
the items you will need are sealey tools part num ak9634m for the dti on sale at the moment for around £20
also the adaptor to screw in the pump sealey used to do a 3 in 1 tool which apparently they are stopping making so i found from america via ebay number 370483411322 fits perfect in the pump and dti sits in perfect only modification needed was the shorter of the 2 adaptors had to be shortened by about 5mm ( rod that screws in dti ) and hey presto works perfectly total cost £45! hope this helps anyone with hot start problems as it has cured mine!:)
Click to expand...

Thank's for that Nathan just bought one from same supplier. Works out at $34.99 all in or around £21.00 proper money. Others on eBay from states are £21.00 plus post. It's amazing how everybody tries to rip us off over here adding 100% to all their prices. Now all i have to do is get dimensions of locking pin so i can knock one up in lathe. Nice spot well done.:):):)
 
Solved one problem and another rears its ugly head! Gearbox I think has gone pop (auto) on my way to work
Under acceleration gearbox fault appears and now seems to be slipping pulling away revs to over 2000rpm and barely moves and box slips in drive but revese is fine perhaps a clutch pack gone?
Will have to stay up and get codes read in the morning after a 12hr night shift! Then out comes box and I will
Rebuild it myself don't trust others to do the job properly!
What I was also amazed with was how quick it got to me from the states puts a lot of uk suppliers to shame!
 
6704nathan said:
Solved one problem and another rears its ugly head! Gearbox I think has gone pop (auto) on my way to work
Under acceleration gearbox fault appears and now seems to be slipping pulling away revs to over 2000rpm and barely moves and box slips in drive but revese is fine perhaps a clutch pack gone?
Will have to stay up and get codes read in the morning after a 12hr night shift! Then out comes box and I will
Rebuild it myself don't trust others to do the job properly!
What I was also amazed with was how quick it got to me from the states puts a lot of uk suppliers to shame!
Click to expand...


Do you have the locking pin need the dimensions of it, lost mine. Lad tidied up garage for me it seems to have disappeared in the process.
 
no but last time i made one as i have mine to do again before i think i have to replace the pump i will remove the starter motor and see if i can get measure ments from the flywheel with the starter out and the hole in the block then maybe you can make me one too!
 
paddocks1967 said:
hi nathan ,iam going to change my fip and was told to get a bmw pump puller from ebay,i think that does the same job as yours,and holds all the timing together.cheers pat.
Click to expand...


Technically it's not a puller more a locator/pusher. The outer shell screws into the FIP sprocket to hold it in position and the centre bolt pushes the pump out of the sprocket. You will need more than that to change pump, you need tools to do static timing. You cannot just stick a new pump in and twiddle it around untill you think it's right.
 
the tools i have spoken about are purely for static timing the pump see rave for details
the tool you are describing is purely for breaking the taper to remove geared wheel of the pump.
you can do this without the tool many people will tell you it stops the pulley from falling down into the sump but it cant it is not possible and yes i have tried it!
another cheap solution is loosen but not remove the nuts securing the pump to casing then undo the nut on the shaft securing pulley to pump a sharp tap on the end of the nut should see the taper broken and the pump move back then remove the nut at the front and find a socket that fits snug over the pulleys center once you have done this remove socket and wrap the outer in electrical tape so that when you put it back in the hole you have to screw it into the threaded part of the outer casing this will hold it whilst you undo the rear nuts and remove the pump.
obviously you need to time the engine first and fit the crank locking pin. but as for scare mongers who will tell you the pulley will drop out into the engineif you dont use the tool you are describing rubbish! look at the pics on rave there are 2 chains crank to fip and fip to cam plus guide rails so pretty much impossible but my only concern would be the tensionners pulling on the chain and moving the gear making putting the pump back in difficult. study rave before doing this job it will give you a better idea of what iam describing and tools needed but it is an easy job so dont worry too much!
 
and i quick note wammers is totally correct you cannot just chuck a pump in and twiddle it till it is right you will have hot start probs poor performance etc
remember no 2 pumps are the same which is why you need to static time the pump using a crank pin, dti and adaptor that screws in the pump set it to 1mm instead of the 0.9 and a bit cant remember the exact figure it is slightly more advanced but easier to do and will help slightly with hot start due to worn timing chain if yours is a really bad hot starter ie hot start kit fitted go upto 1.5mm as this will help a lot.
 
6704nathan said:
the tools i have spoken about are purely for static timing the pump see rave for details
the tool you are describing is purely for breaking the taper to remove geared wheel of the pump.
you can do this without the tool many people will tell you it stops the pulley from falling down into the sump but it cant it is not possible and yes i have tried it!
another cheap solution is loosen but not remove the nuts securing the pump to casing then undo the nut on the shaft securing pulley to pump a sharp tap on the end of the nut should see the taper broken and the pump move back then remove the nut at the front and find a socket that fits snug over the pulleys center once you have done this remove socket and wrap the outer in electrical tape so that when you put it back in the hole you have to screw it into the threaded part of the outer casing this will hold it whilst you undo the rear nuts and remove the pump.
obviously you need to time the engine first and fit the crank locking pin. but as for scare mongers who will tell you the pulley will drop out into the engineif you dont use the tool you are describing rubbish! look at the pics on rave there are 2 chains crank to fip and fip to cam plus guide rails so pretty much impossible but my only concern would be the tensionners pulling on the chain and moving the gear making putting the pump back in difficult. study rave before doing this job it will give you a better idea of what iam describing and tools needed but it is an easy job so dont worry too much!
Click to expand...

True Nath you don't need to use the tool. But try it without either the tool or your socket set up and the tensioners will pull the sprocket out of position and it will drop. You have to have something there to hold it.
 
the static timing is the timing which involves the moving of the pump when it is in place you will see the bolt holes on your pump will allow the pump to rotate. if anyone thinks im wrong with what im saying correct me as i dont want to cause somebody a heap of hastle
 
well i tried it when i removed and replaced my engine and although yes it did move it did not drop out! and having stripped the the front cover off i cant see how it would as the chain guides run right up to the pulley.
wouldnt recommend trying it just in case it does but in my experience and what i have found from stripping my old engine cant see it happening myself.
 
sean you are right but you need to follow the procedure in rave and lock the flywheel so that you are in the right position to dial the pump in.
if the engine is not locked your engine will not be in the timed position and to set the pump using the dti it will be totally wrong.
as i said paddocks get yourself a copy of rave or download it for free and read how to do the timing all of this will be much clearer once you have seen it on there
 
Hi i am just about to look at this on my P38 DSE does anyone have the locking pin size so i can make one.

Many thanks
 
so you don't always need a new injector pump just tweek the timing,or more importantly try and find a garage to do it for you,mine has hot start trouble but not all the time,sometimes it will fire no problem at all other times it can take a few turns,i think i will get the injectors serviced as well.
 
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