keycode lockout problem

Datatek said:

Step 2.5 check the wiring between the door and the a post has not broken.

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That was step 1 post #50

On mine when I go to enter the EKA, the indicators flash for the initial 4 turns in the lock, but then don't flash for the rest of it. Instead the side light lamp (green one under the high beam indicator on the instrument cluster) flashes once for every turn of the key. It can be near impossible to see it in daylight though..

If you can't get the EKA to enter properly, then the BECM has possibly gone into alarm lockout, which needs specialist diagnostics to clear.

I have the gear to do it and would offer to help, but I'm about to head away this week for work.

The connector you have cleaned up is worth doing, but the door wiring doesn't go through this one, but instead goes through 2 or 3 (depending on model year/spec) connectors further up which hide in the bodywork and are accessible by pulling the rubber cable cover away from the vehicle A post.

owen88 said:

This is the plug ive found corroded

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Where was the plug? drivers footwell behind the plastic trim on the A post ? If it was forget cleaning it, cut it out and solder the wires together and use heat shrink to insulate them.

tomcat59alan said:

Where was the plug? drivers footwell behind the plastic trim on the A post ? If it was forget cleaning it, cut it out and solder the wires together and use heat shrink to insulate them.

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Looks like the one from behind the kick panel going by the wiring colours.

Solder and heatshrink is definitely the only way to go.

martyuk said:

Looks like the one from behind the kick panel going by the wiring colours.

Solder and heatshrink is definitely the only way to go.

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Yup, told him to check that over 20 posts ago and I'm probably not the first.

Dont think you were, though as I mentioned above, the door wiring doesn't go through that connector anyway - the connectors there join the fascia loom to the body loom. The door ones are further up inside the bodywork and run directly to the BECM.

Also as a side note, if the mirror and window works then I doubt its the wiring as the door communications, including central locking are all sent from the outstation to the BECM over a serial link. So if any of these wires are broken then everything in the door will stop working, likewise if the outstation losses power or ground.

It's still work checking them though as an intermittent connection on one of the wires could be a real pain to track down. I usually do a continuity check on the serial link wires right the way from outstation through to BECM to make sure they aren't causing intermittent problems.

Brilliant i will do this tomorrow and let you know if this works . When i enter the initial 4 digit code i get flashes lights that inlt on final turn to unlock once i get a beep which means its still alarmed. So i think you right marty needs specialist diagnostic onit. Dealer came out and tried but no joy though heard he isnt that good with range rovers. I do get that beam flashing in between the revs and clock when i enter the eka code. But no joy

If sounds like it is trying to take the EKA but not accepting it.

It does sound like getting the BECM out and connected up to have the lockout status reset is going to be the next course of action.

As mentioned I ha e the gear to do it, but am away until the 31st with work, but if you are interested then drop me a PM and we can work something out.

Marty

Just get someone with a Nanocom to put the EKA in for you or disable it and use the key until you have time to sort it.

wammers said:

Just get someone with a Nanocom to put the EKA in for you or disable it and use the key until you have time to sort it.

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I didn't think that worked if the BECM was in alarm lockout? Also another of the OP's threads says that he has a 1995 - so I don't think the Nanocom will be able to enter the EKA as the Nanocom manuals show that it only works from a PAM version of 36

The BECM SID document I've got, dated 1998 has the last version recorded in there as a PAM of 34 - so I believe that the EKA Disarm with Nanocom only works on the later models (I presume from the GEMS/Bosch changeover in 1999).

I could be wrong, but I thought the BECM just ignored any attempt at EKA if it was in lockout. In the PM the OP sent me about it he said that the dealer reckoned the BECM thought it was LHD and language of French when they tried to read it - which I was under the impression was a sign of it being in lockout mode.

martyuk said:

I didn't think that worked if the BECM was in alarm lockout? Also another of the OP's threads says that he has a 1995 - so I don't think the Nanocom will be able to enter the EKA as the Nanocom manuals show that it only works from a PAM version of 36

The BECM SID document I've got, dated 2008 has the last version recorded in there as a PAM of 34 - so I believe that the EKA Disarm with Nanocom only works on the later models (I presume from the GEMS/Bosch changeover in 1999).

I could be wrong, but I thought the BECM just ignored any attempt at EKA if it was in lockout. In the PM the OP sent me about it he said that the dealer reckoned the BECM thought it was LHD and language of French when they tried to read it - which I was under the impression was a sign of it being in lockout mode.

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Keycode lock out message on message centre means that you have entered the wrong code to many times. It should go away after an hour or so. Only way you can tell if BECM is in an alarmed state is if the language is different. Alarmed state BECM is NOT the same as keycode lockout. EKA code can be disabled say in the event of a FOB failing and the key used on the doors. EKA code can be entered or disabled on any P38 with Nanocom.

wammers said:

Keycode lock out message on message centre means that you have entered the wrong code to many times. It should go away after an hour or so. Only way you can tell if BECM is in an alarmed state is if the language is different. Alarmed state BECM is NOT the same as keycode lockout. EKA code can be disabled say in the event of a FOB failing and the key used on the doors. EKA code can be entered or disabled on any P38 with Nanocom.

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From what he told me about what the dealer said - that they hooked it up and the BECM was saying it was in French and LHD to me says it's alarmed.

Sorry, I should change my terminology from saying lockout when I mean the BECM is alarmed - I know that the Key Code Lockout is when the EKA has been entered incorrectly too many times. When I first started working on bits with BECMs everyone was saying that their BECM needed 'unlocking' to clear the problem - when all it was is the 'BECM Alarmed Status' reset to 'disarmed' with the Faultmate.

Didn't know that the EKA disarm from Nanocom worked on all models - handy to know though. Haven't had anything newer than my 2001 to use it on though.

martyuk said:

From what he told me about what the dealer said - that they hooked it up and the BECM was saying it was in French and LHD to me says it's alarmed.

Sorry, I should change my terminology from saying lockout when I mean the BECM is alarmed - I know that the Key Code Lockout is when the EKA has been entered incorrectly too many times. When I first started working on bits with BECMs everyone was saying that their BECM needed 'unlocking' to clear the problem - when all it was is the 'BECM Alarmed Status' reset to 'disarmed' with the Faultmate.

Didn't know that the EKA disarm from Nanocom worked on all models - handy to know though. Haven't had anything newer than my 2001 to use it on though.

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Certainly works on a 1997 did it on one a month or so ago when fob failed. If the BECM is in an alarmed state he will possibly need Faultmate extreme with the ridiculously expensive add on to unlock and disarm it. May work if EKA is inputted with Nanocom or Faultmate. Depends what diag dealer had some will read stuff but not do anything. Looks like the OP has buggered about and put BECM into an alarmed state.

Sounds that way - I've told him that I have the Faultmate/SM035 module and am happy to hook it up for him but it would have to be sent to me as I'm in Swindon - and I'm no use this week as I'm away for work.

Someone else may be closer/be able to do it sooner than me - but it isn't going to get running again without being hooked up by someone.

martyuk said:

Sounds that way - I've told him that I have the Faultmate/SM035 module and am happy to hook it up for him but it would have to be sent to me as I'm in Swindon - and I'm no use this week as I'm away for work.

Someone else may be closer/be able to do it sooner than me - but it isn't going to get running again without being hooked up by someone.

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I did tell him to contact Rick the pick, he should do that if he's in a hurry to get it running. Seems there are a lot of pages with the same advice but op's not taking notice.

tomcat59alan said:

I did tell him to contact Rick the pick, he should do that if he's in a hurry to get it running. Seems there are a lot of pages with the same advice but op's not taking notice.

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It is noticeable from time to time on here that the person asking the questions often think they know more than those answering them.

Hi lads
Spoke to martin today and am sending the becm to him to reset the becm.
will keep you all informed and want to thank everyone for there help and advise really appreciate it

hi guys

Just a quick update marty has now reset my becm which i do recommend him doing .
ive now installed the becm however i cannot start the engine as when i turn the key to position 3 all im getting is a click.

On the dash im getting the engine check light which means the becm and ecu are still sync

also ive taken the starter motor out today and put it on the workbench and have had it spinning so starter motor not the issue and have cleaned the wires to the starter motor

The relay inside the fuse box for the starter motor clicks when i turn it to positon 3 so im getting feed to the relay.

The battery is fully charged so not the battery and it only 3 month old aswell

Marty has been a great help hes sent me the wiring diagram for the starter motor/relay etc
so tomorrow or saturday am going to follow the wiring and see if i can see if there a broken wire etc.

if anyone has anymore advice i would appreciate it

owen88 said:

Marty has been a great help hes sent me the wiring diagram for the starter motor/relay etc
so tomorrow or saturday am going to follow the wiring and see if i can see if there a broken wire etc.

if anyone has anymore advice i would appreciate it

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Check your earths, or better yet: eliminate them by installing a good jumper from your battery negative to the engine block and another from the block to the body. If your starter relay is triggered, you should also hear the starter solenoid trying to engage the starter. Is this the click your hearing?
You could also have a bad main positive cable, which can also be jumpered (battery + to starter main positive). These heavy gauge cables are notorious for causing starting problems. Corrosion can eat away the insides with the outsides looking perfectly fine. Resistance check is no good, since it may read 0 ohms on the meter but still offer up huge resistance when subjected to 500 amps of starting current.

Best of luck!