Fitted new barrels - can still open with the wrong key!

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If you have a flat battery won't you be stuck outside the car? maybe not a problem, but mine likes to flatten out rather too often.
 
If you have a flat battery won't you be stuck outside the car? maybe not a problem, but mine likes to flatten out rather too often.

Yeah, that's why I was going to leave the rear door barrel in there and functioning. So, should the battery die or central locking spaz out, I can climb in through the back and unlock doors that way. Luckily, it's the rear lock barrel that seems to be the most secure.
 
They are still opening with a random key, or still opening just by putting something a few mm in?
 
They are still opening with a random key, or still opening just by putting something a few mm in?

The new barrels are unlocking with my old barrel key. They also unlock with the locking fuel cap key that I bought off eBay last week. It's pretty much anything that goes in

I thought about it again last night, I think I'm going to do away with the barrels in the front doors and rely on the central locking. I'll also remove he door pop-up pins from the door/card. I'll leave the rear door barrel in as a back up should battery or central locking fail
 
I did away with the door lock barrels years ago, put a set of 110 second row handles on which have a blank in instead of a hole for the barrel.

Modern cars don't bother with key holes any more, the central locking does it all for you. Like you suggest I retained the rear door key barrel in case the CDL fails or there is an issue with the battery, but in 7 years so far it's never happened.

I suspect the reason you've had this issue is that aftermarket door barrels are shockingly bad quality, combine that with the generally poor design of the system anyway and it's no surprise they don't work properly.
 
I did away with the door lock barrels years ago, put a set of 110 second row handles on which have a blank in instead of a hole for the barrel.

Modern cars don't bother with key holes any more, the central locking does it all for you. Like you suggest I retained the rear door key barrel in case the CDL fails or there is an issue with the battery, but in 7 years so far it's never happened.

I suspect the reason you've had this issue is that aftermarket door barrels are shockingly bad quality, combine that with the generally poor design of the system anyway and it's no surprise they don't work properly.

Think I made my mind up this morning and will do exactly the above, minus second row handles as have already bought these (but good idea). Bit of silicone and a rubber grommet it is :)

4 locks with matching ignitin and two keys going in for sale section soon :)
 
The new barrels are unlocking with my old barrel key. They also unlock with the locking fuel cap key that I bought off eBay last week. It's pretty much anything that goes in

I thought about it again last night, I think I'm going to do away with the barrels in the front doors and rely on the central locking. I'll also remove he door pop-up pins from the door/card. I'll leave the rear door barrel in as a back up should battery or central locking fail

huffhuff, have you tried locking the doors leaving a door window open without touching the door pop-up pins try opening the door. On mine it will not open (without first lifting the door pop-up).
If yours are the same, if the central locking fails and you having removed the door pop-up's and the facility to use a key you will not be able to open the door.
 
huffhuff, have you tried locking the doors leaving a door window open without touching the door pop-up pins try opening the door. On mine it will not open (without first lifting the door pop-up).
If yours are the same, if the central locking fails and you having removed the door pop-up's and the facility to use a key you will not be able to open the door.

Yep, that's exactly what they do. I had a fiddle (ooh err) at the weekend and have a couple of ways around it so still going ahead with it.

Thanks for the heads up... 👍🏻
 
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