Trouble with ignition switch wiring

Just trying to get my newly rebuilt engine running.
I found that when i turned the ignition switch to position 3, the starter motor kicks in, engine starts and runs, until i release the key on the switch and it returns to position 2.

Initially, I assumed this was fuel/carb related issue, but I have now done a test with my ignition spark detector light wired into plug 1:
- when i turn ignition to position 3, the detector flashes as the engine turns on the starter motor
- releasing switch to position 2, if i now manually turn the engine with the starter motor, there is no light on the detector.

So i think what is happening is that:
- on position 3, starter motor works and ignition is working creating the sparks
- on position 2, the ignition is not working, no spark

I have put a new ignition switch on the back of the metal key/lock component. There seemed to be only one way to do this.
It took me a while to find out what i should wire to what spade. I have with the numbered spades as follows:
1 goes to battery
2 coil
3 goes to solenoid to switch

Have i wired this up wrong, or is there something else i am doing wrong?

Sounds to me like you simply dont have power to the coil in position 2.

Cant tell what you are referring to in 1,2,or 3. as some have double spades.

@mystery could help but a few more details of year engine would help him. Hes a wizz and loves electrics.

J

its 1990 petrol 2.25.
The switch i bought was this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254654333353
it has spades with labels 1,2,3,5 (i.e. no number 4).
You are right - the issue is power to the coil - but the odd thing is that it DOES have power in position III, but that turns off when the key is let turn back to position II. Just for the hell of it, i move the lead to the coil to spade 5, but there is nothing.

Given that spade 1 is feed from battery, spade 2 behaves right i.e. it has current when the key is in position III to initiate the starter motor, the thing i don't understand is why spade 3 does the same i.e. has current in key position III but no power in position II.

I wonder if it is a faulty switch.

Should be able to check switch with continuity tester
Are you using different colours for wiring

Coil is 33
Switch is 23

sound like you have the wrong switch if terminal 2 loses ignition feed when cranking

steve2286w said:

Coil is 33
Switch is 23
View attachment 315636

Click to expand...

Looking at the diagram, you realise how electrically dubious the stock wiring on a Series is! Half the circuits are protected by only three fuses, and the other half aren't protected at all. And no sign of any relays to take the load off the switches.

FlyingPete said:

Looking at the diagram, you realise how electrically dubious the stock wiring on a Series is! Half the circuits are protected by only three fuses, and the other half aren't protected at all. And no sign of any relays to take the load off the switches.

Click to expand...

The same can be said for most of the car's trucks of that time. On the good side wires were of a larger gauge with copper of better quality, switches were chunky. After all they have mostly lasted forty years and more.

three fuse wow my series 1 had just one fuse but now 20 ( not all used )and relays

tottot said:

The same can be said for most of the car's trucks of that time. On the good side wires were of a larger gauge with copper of better quality, switches were chunky. After all they have mostly lasted forty years and more.

Click to expand...

It's true, although how many have gone up in smoke due to electrical fires! If I was rebuilding one, I'd scrap the lot and update the wiring to something more advanced.

In the case of rebuild I would too. Another reason for having multiple fuses is that it is simpler to find which circuit has issues. Right pain on a series when the fuse goes and you have to check every thing it does. Although not a two it is not much.