Central locking replacement

Ok and let us know, but in the meantime does the central locking work ok when using just the key in the drivers door? and it just the remote function that you are after.

Hi Discool, no the central locking is not working with the key. I would be happy if i could just get this working and not bother with the remote!
This is why i think it must be the c/l ecu.

Hi Discool, I know i'm knocking on a bit now, but i'm sure my eyesight ain't that bad! No green box as far as i can see, but thought i would include pic just in case!

After removing the kick panel you can see it to the left of the glovebox if u had one.

Does this mean that its a waste of time trying to get the c/l working if there is no alarm ecu?
or can i still get it going with a c/l ecu on its own?

No it's no a waste of time but u will need an ecu if you require a remote controled C L other wise the master actuator just requires a permanent 12v supply as that will lock/unlock the four doors when ever u use a key in the drivers door.

Thanks for the help Discool, that sounds a bit cheaper to put a permenant live supply to the actuator, i better put an emobilizer in while i'm at it!

I purchased a similar kit off ebay but it never had any actuators.

45mins work yesterday and I got it working, although I had to lubricate my locking mechanism because it would unlock and try to lock but due to the stiff mechanism it wouldn't so a bit of wd40 and job done.

The system I purchased was this one UKSH CAR DOOR REMOTE CENTRAL LOCKING KEYLESS ENTRY LOCK on eBay (end time 20-Apr-11 09:29:22 BST)

There's alot of wires in the kit however I fitted it like this.

1. Red and Black to a positive and negative feed I already had routed for a solar charger which i find it a waste of time so i used those to power the control unit.

2. White/black connected to the Orange lead in the drivers door, had to change the 10a fuse for a 20a as it kept blowing

3. White lead connected to the Pink lead in the drivers door

4. Yellow and Yellow/Black from the control unit both connected to the positive feed

Then just needed to lubricate the door lock mechanism but others may not have to do this.

I do have 2 brown wires from the control unit that connect to the indicators but I didn't bother connecting these cause I couldn't be arsed lol

busagsx1300 said:

Hi Discool, I know i'm knocking on a bit now, but i'm sure my eyesight ain't that bad! No green box as far as i can see, but thought i would include pic just in case!

Click to expand...

Realise thread is a couple of months old but the black box to the right of your photo is the combined C/L alarm ecu probably amr 2106 or amr 2109

Hi Livers, It is indeed the c/l ecu, but i couldn't get it working.
I purchased a c/l kit off flea bay for £23 installed the complete kit including actuators and it works great.
Just got to install the immobiliser i also purchased now!

busagsx1300 said:

Hi Livers, It is indeed the c/l ecu, but i couldn't get it working.
I purchased a c/l kit off flea bay for £23 installed the complete kit including actuators and it works great.
Just got to install the immobiliser i also purchased now!

Click to expand...

Which kit did you get?

Hi Alexdon, The kit was a cyclone kit ebay number 200549532528. Through ncooksecurity.
It cost me £23.99 delivered and works really well, no problem with the power, but it took me half a day to wire it in properly through the doors etc where the old wires were routed.
The only thing i would say is that if i could alter the fob as the one i had is easily triggered in my pocket so i would prefer one that has a sliding sleave to cover the button.