Disco 3 (LR3) Vibration on acceleration and cruising

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SM1543

New Member
Posts
9
Location
West Midlands
Just bought a 2007 Disco 3 2.7 auto, it's done 199k miles (high I know!) It has however been well looked after by a company.

I'm experiencing a vibration (only sometimes?) on acceleration, it seems worse when under load or going up a hill. When sat at 70MPH you can feel it and as soon as you let off it disappears, I don't seem to notice it around 60MPH. I've read so much online about it possibly being the prop, torque converter or other stuff. I know the front discs are possibly warped due to a vibration when slowing down, but I've never experienced issues on acceleration in any other vehicle with warped discs so I'm ruing that out?

The gears all smoothly change, I get the odd slight jolt when coming to a stop but nothing bad. I've checked the centre prop bearing which looks recently changed in the last few years and in good condition. I did notice the rubber boot just after the centre bearing has split and grease is showing but I don't feel any play in the prop so don't think it's that.

The gearbox fluid was low, approx 1.5-2L less than it should be, I topped it up and it seemed slightly better but I have yet to take it for a proper run. The fluid that came out was also red which I believe is the wrong oil so I could probably benefit from a 'mega flush' which the correct oil and additives?

I also noticed the passenger side driveshaft has slight up and down movement compared to the drivers.

I'm not really sure where to start on this as every direction sounds extremely expensive! If it's the torque converter I am able to do this myself so will cost about £300 for a recon one.

I'd appreciate any input or suggestions!
 
There should be no up & down movement in any driveshaft - change it before it destroys the differential.
Personally, I'd do a 'double flush' with 'Miller & Allen' oil, then Lifeguard 6 a few months later. The 'Mega Flush' oil meets the specification, but that's the bare minimum, Miller & Allen is one better, ZF Lifeguard 6 is the gold standard - all the correct additives for the 'box. That's the difference between the specification and the OEM oils.
 
It doesn't sound like it was "well maintained" at all. And you're right, it's not going to be cheap.

Good luck.
I get you, by well maintained I meant possibly a few years ago and they gave up in the end :D It's had all new lower and upper arms and airstruts all around, new propshaft 2 years ago (except the boot has split), it's been kept indoors every night and has VERY little rust anywhere been serviced every 3000 miles, uprated oil pump and recent cambelt so they've definitely spent some money on it. I think they just didn't want to spend any more money on a higher mileage car and got a new company vehicle.

Other than this vibration, I honestly have no other complaints

There should be no up & down movement in any driveshaft - change it before it destroys the differential.
Personally, I'd do a 'double flush' with 'Miller & Allen' oil, then Lifeguard 6 a few months later. The 'Mega Flush' oil meets the specification, but that's the bare minimum, Miller & Allen is one better, ZF Lifeguard 6 is the gold standard - all the correct additives for the 'box. That's the difference between the specification and the OEM oils.

Yeah, I was going to start with the driveshaft but I had my doubts it was causing this vibration but who knows. It's at least a cheap first option before I spill the money beans.
 
Which drive shafts are moving? I'm assuming you mean the front inner joint into the diff? Front left will have a small amount of play, as there just one bearing and the spline, so is normal for this type of joint support. The front right won't have any play, as the joint is supported on two bearings, one at the joint, and a second by the diff.

Rear will have a small amount of play on the inner joints, but if there's no oil leakage, the shafts are supported sufficiently.

I'd suggest the front to rear propshaft is the place to start. Vibration at speed can normally be traced to the propshaft centre bearing support rubber having failed, allowing the shaft to oscillate.
 
I read the description as play in the driveshaft to CV joint, not in the front differential itself, which would present itself as a leaking seal if excessive, surely?
 
Which drive shafts are moving? I'm assuming you mean the front inner joint into the diff? Front left will have a small amount of play, as there just one bearing and the spline, so is normal for this type of joint support. The front right won't have any play, as the joint is supported on two bearings, one at the joint, and a second by the diff.

Rear will have a small amount of play on the inner joints, but if there's no oil leakage, the shafts are supported sufficiently.

I'd suggest the front to rear propshaft is the place to start. Vibration at speed can normally be traced to the propshaft centre bearing support rubber having failed, allowing the shaft to oscillate.
What you described is pretty much exactly my findings, so I gather they are fine.

The centre bearing looked fine to me and relatively new but for the price I may as well do it again! I'm not sure if placebo but after topping up the gearbox the vibration seems to have improved. I think I'll do the centre bearing and a full gearbox service and see how I get on
 
Just bought a 2007 Disco 3 2.7 auto, it's done 199k miles (high I know!) It has however been well looked after by a company.

I'm experiencing a vibration (only sometimes?) on acceleration, it seems worse when under load or going up a hill. When sat at 70MPH you can feel it and as soon as you let off it disappears, I don't seem to notice it around 60MPH. I've read so much online about it possibly being the prop, torque converter or other stuff. I know the front discs are possibly warped due to a vibration when slowing down, but I've never experienced issues on acceleration in any other vehicle with warped discs so I'm ruing that out?

The gears all smoothly change, I get the odd slight jolt when coming to a stop but nothing bad. I've checked the centre prop bearing which looks recently changed in the last few years and in good condition. I did notice the rubber boot just after the centre bearing has split and grease is showing but I don't feel any play in the prop so don't think it's that.

The gearbox fluid was low, approx 1.5-2L less than it should be, I topped it up and it seemed slightly better but I have yet to take it for a proper run. The fluid that came out was also red which I believe is the wrong oil so I could probably benefit from a 'mega flush' which the correct oil and additives?

I also noticed the passenger side driveshaft has slight up and down movement compared to the drivers.

I'm not really sure where to start on this as every direction sounds extremely expensive! If it's the torque converter I am able to do this myself so will cost about £300 for a recon one.

I'd appreciate any input or suggestions!

I have had this twice in 10 years, both times it was the handbrake shoes, do 70mph on cruise good as gold, then out of nowhere slight judder, knock cruise off drop to 60 then resume cruise and back to 70 all smooth, another mile or two and the judder would start again.
D3 handbrake shoes are probably the most ignored part of the car, no one even checks /adjusts them on service.
Both times new shoes and a clean/lube up and it was good to go.

Prop centre bearing on its own is a waste of time, as I bet you a pint the rear prop u/j is starting to seize in at least one plane, crap design.

Caliper sliders like to seize if not lubed annually, can also cause judders.

Red does not mean wrong oil, as some makes correct spec is red, Mannol AG55 is decent, it is not red though!
 
After servicing the gearbox and adding some Dr Tranny the vibration has gone! I also noticed N/S/R wheel is binding so I'm going to strip that tomorrow and rebuild with new shoes/calliper pins etc

Thanks for all your suggestions and help
 
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