And also, because the winch is sat dead in the middle of the chassis,it has a lower centre of gravity which means less stress on other components when winching!!

the mounting plate for the winch is welded between the two chassis legs, one for strength ,two because its the best place to support both the winch and the bumper, once lifted, and big tyres etc ,it wont be so much of a plough , but if it does prove to low,ill cut the plate out and reweld to the...

silly me,;) im thinking of the new range rovers, i stand corrected,as biglad says its on the chassis :)

you can,but you might aswell get a full set at once, line will only need to be extended if your going for major articulation. oh yeh thanks for your help yesterday! next time your up ill let you have a play with the real welder ;)

always satisfying to do it yourself :)

the REAR trailing arms are :rolleyes: the fronts i,e the radius arms (rears being the trailing arms) will have offset holes in the bushes, hence why i said,upload pictures and ill tell you :)

easy way,remove drivers side plastic panels in rear and the carpet boot floor, ignition on and press orm button,then listen for compressor, if no noise, strip the compressor cover off, and check for 12v at the pump!

upload pictures,ill tell you>:)

aha! my mate had this on his 02 td5. bad connection at gearbox ecu, possibly caused by oil ingress via capilliary action through wiring loom,take it off,check it out,OR call the aa and get them to plug it in for free ! there is also a common fault , on certain chassis numbers with bad ecu...

exactly

i know the rear trailing arms are kinked if they are radius corrected, fronts im not to sure,but you should be able to tell if they are upgraded!

i wouldnt attempt this with pump in situ, remove aux belts ,fan etc,remove timing case and cambelt,lock the pump pulley and strip it out and do it on the bench, as long as you everything goes back together correctly with no missing parts and the pulley hasnt moved,then all will be okay,hope...

i cant remember exactly the name of the spongey stuff, but its not majorly important!! i would also recomend doing the cambelt,waterpump, aux belt and tensioners. regards to wax oil, not alot you can do about any rust inside the chassis,so just pump it full of waxoyl to protect whats left, as...

they do fit, with slight modification to mounting points etc, looked at it for mine but then thought nah sod it :)

i had to cut mine off,they always rust in and do not move without lots of heat and a big feckin hammer!

trax99-this is very true. molten metal splashes hurt like F**k! but you do get used to weld splatter, i know i have!

less air resistance=less resistance on engine= more mpg ;) i will be doing this to mine when i do cambelt and water pump,and replacing with shiny electric fan just incase ;)

oh and the silver wheels are on a mk2 capri axle,which is NOT attatched to my car by the way!

and heres a few more of the bumper,used 12mm stainless steel bar which wraps over the bumper and onto the chassis legs,fully seam welded inside and out top and bottom. will be putting front plate onto bumper once i have my winch, and going to get all the welding underneath and get it fully...

even more for you to have a gander at, my lovely messy engine bay,the side and front , and the steel bumper, used 4inch box for the sides with 3mm wall thickness,and 10mm steel plate for the winch tray, plenty strong enough ;)