Hi I got mine from the local LR dealer. Its about £10 a litre (in single litre bottles) but not much cheaper elsewhere after you have added postage etc. You could see if there is a local independent LR mechanic nearby who might have some to sell you? Part number is STC9158 Good luck -...

Thanks Mike - I thought you had sold your IRD ?

ok, thanks. got a diff clank when taking up drive, but its a td4 getrag box. first thoughts were the ird, but the gearchange is a bit notchy so i'm not totally sure... running in fwd only at the moment and it still happens, changed ird & main box oils, no swarf or anything in the drained oil...

Great if she could - let me know what she thinks. Its just the seam stitching that has come apart..

Is this failure on both PG1 and Getrag boxes?

:jaw: no-wonder fuel consumption is higher on the autos dragging that lump around!

can you hear the low pressure pump running when you turn the ignition key on but not started? (pump location post my02 in drivers rear wheel arch pre my02, pass side under bonnet) If not, I would suspect that first - you cant get high pressure if the low pressure pump isnt working...

my local independent quoted 350 + VAT labour only for a TD4 clutch replacement...

Hi The stitching on a seam on the bottom squab on my passenger seat is split and whilst I could get a new seat, it might be cheaper to get the old stitching repaired. Can anyone recommend a fabric seat repair place? It looks easy to remove the fabric from the seat squab, so location isn't...

have you tried the landyzone rescue section of the site? you might find someone close by with a fault reader that would do it for a beer :)

Depends on the fault and if its intermittent or permanent. e.g. I read my faults the other week and it had a intermittent CAN bus error, but no dash lights were lit.

You should have MTF94 in there, which is quite thin and whilst smelly, no where near as smelly as thicker EP80/90... If it were me, I would drain the gearbox and refill with the correct amount of MTF94 before starting to dismantle things.

have you got the right oil in the gearbox?

Do you mean the lead in picture 3? if so, I think this is the earth that connects to the fuel filter itself. On the plastic housing that the fuel filter slides into, at one of the ends should be a spade connector that this wire plugs onto. Mine rusted and fell off in my hands when changing...

I would go for Ashcrofts because they have a 12 month warranty but Bell only have 6 months. When I buy my recon IRD later this month, even though Bell have a good reputation on here, I'm going to use another supplier as they have a longer warranty, which suggests to me that they have more...

thanks. how much time did you take to get to the clutch? just wondering if its a weekend job or i need time off work. whilst ive done clutches / gearboxes etc on other cars on the driveway, i havn't done one on the FL yet :scratching_chin:

Is/was it much extra work to get to the clutch after removing the IRD? I need to replace my IRD shortly and was wondering if its worth doing the clutch whilst its all apart. Cheers Darren

According to Microcat there are 6 bolts in total holding the subframe on? Anyway, they are as follows: ANR5332 x 2 (M14 x 124) = number 2 below ANR5333 x 4 (M12 x 115) = number 3 below

do you know what make the aftermarket one is? I would be wary if it were a cheap chinese copy i had one from LRDirect (i think) at roughly that price and it turned out to be a AP Lockheed, which is an established hydraulic manufacturer.

Part number is STC4198. Used these guys before - free EU delivery: Valve - Vacuum Control - Land Rover Part STC4198