Yeah, they're not too great

Hi guys, I want to swap my 2" HD lift for a 3" HD lift in the near future, 2 reasons, firstly, the bearmach +2" HD lift that's fitted now only lifted the truck 30mm so now the 35's rub on the arches and secondly, the shocks are shot! I already have HD spring retainers, -2" turrets and...

I'd say more likely the transfer box, rear diff is a little too far away, it'd have to be fairly loud to hear it. Have you checked oil levels?

Gutter sealant!

Whistling is normal, it's the clattering and banging you need to worry about!

Shouldn't fail on inner wings providing the battery tray is secure.

Could be a wire has come off the alternator. Other than that probably the alternator itself. You can replace with a second hand one but if you're planning to keep the vehicle, I'd buy a new one

Thanks for the replies, I fear there's quite a lot of work involved. I think it's gunna be easier to swap the 2" susp lift for a 3". A know this raises the cog somewhat but my shocks are about ready for changing anyway so 2 birds 1 stone.

And the ones that's fasten the rear inside corner of both front seats to the chassis.

Hi guys, I did a 2" body lift on my D1 a few months ago, I've not done any offroading with it since doin the lift. At the weekend I tested the arch clearance on a large stone pile up at the farm. Not great. Tyre caught the arch on full articulation and that's before the -2" turrets are fitted...

not immobiliser, that only affects the starter solenoid and fuel solenoid. most likely wiring to glow plug relay.

it changed when they went to the D2, P plate is still a D1

300's have 24 spline diffs but as inferno says, that only affects the half shafts. You need to get a new flange kit, paddocks do them, comes with new seal. Easy job, 30mins max.

Clean sedimentor and replace lift pump

2.3L in transfer box and 2.7L in gearbox if I remember right. Best stuff is difflock evo 1 & 2

I don't know much about the petrol models but I know that with other engines if the injection timing is wrong the fuel atomises before it's had time to compress. Could be a possibility.

I have a 12,000lb winch wired straight to red top gel battery on standard alternator, my 2nd battery and split charger are just for accessories, extra power outlets, etc.

Sucking up water could well have bust the head gasket and caused air to get into the coolant, which could be the noise you are hearing.

I use national tyres next to mr clutch, mine failed on abs light, bulb removed, no longer fails.

It wants to be on the part of the taper that allows the pin to come out further.