bigrichsri

Active Member

• Nov 1, 2011

• #1

Hi guys, I did a 2" body lift on my D1 a few months ago, I've not done any offroading with it since doin the lift. At the weekend I tested the arch clearance on a large stone pile up at the farm. Not great. Tyre caught the arch on full articulation and that's before the -2" turrets are fitted.

I have a 2" susp lift, 35x12.50 tyres, extended arches and extended bump stops.

I'm now thinking about lifting the body by another 1" - 1.5". Any thoughts?

What's involved in lifting the body this much, apart from the seat belt anchors and rad mounts?

 

Bromsgrove Defender

Well-Known Member

• Nov 1, 2011

• #2

bigrichsri said:

What's involved in lifting the body this much, apart from the seat belt anchors and rad mounts?

Click to expand...

WTF??

 

boycie

Active Member

• Nov 1, 2011

• #3

Steering linkage, transfer box lever and if its a manual the gear lever, some wires may need extending,thats just for starters.

 

arienol

New Member

• Nov 1, 2011

• #4

Bromsgrove Defender said:

WTF??

Click to expand...

Think he's referring to the ones which run through the boot floor, but bolt to the chassis.

 

GreenHornet

Well-Known Member

• Nov 1, 2011

• #5

I have done a 2" lift myself, any higher and i have heard the following needs attention

Clutch salve cylinder pipework
150mm extended brake hoses
Steering column as the standard won't reach safely over 2"
Gear levers
Radiator top hose hits the alternator or pulley
Rear copper brake pipe to axle flexi hose as this goes from body to chassis
Fuel filler pipe

As I said these what I herd about when researching my lift and I can't validate the necessity of all of them.

Finally when off reading in a high lifted body the chassis outriggers that support the body are left highly exposed so lowering your rock sliders etc is recommended.

Hope this helps.

 

bigrichsri

Active Member

• Nov 2, 2011

• #6

arienol said:

Think he's referring to the ones which run through the boot floor, but bolt to the chassis.

Click to expand...

And the ones that's fasten the rear inside corner of both front seats to the chassis.

 

bigrichsri

Active Member

• Nov 2, 2011

• #7

Thanks for the replies, I fear there's quite a lot of work involved. I think it's gunna be easier to swap the 2" susp lift for a 3". A know this raises the cog somewhat but my shocks are about ready for changing anyway so 2 birds 1 stone.

 

Bromsgrove Defender

Well-Known Member

• Nov 2, 2011

• #8

arienol said:

Think he's referring to the ones which run through the boot floor, but bolt to the chassis.

Click to expand...

Ah ta for that. I was thinking suspension lift not body lift :doh: