Hi all, I'm talking about the large nut at the bottom of the steering box; the one that secures the drag link to the steering joints and steering column. I've crudely measured it with a steel rule across the flats and it comes out at between 34 and 36mm, but I need to know exactly so I can...

I never said I "love" using an angle grinder, but let's face it: they get the job done. ;-)

Now that sounds promising. I'm the king of big drifts. I like to be a long way from the action. Plus I've got a 3x4x5" lump of steel weighing a good couple of kilos that should be just the job. Best of all, the bonnet comes right off with no fuss! cheers.

Not in my workshop it isn't.

Ta for the info. I feel an angle grinder coming on. I don't know why it is, but since at least 1984 and probably long before that, these really shi**y kind of jobs always come along in August when the weather makes me even more bad tempered and irritable than usual.

Argh! I knew something wasn't right when it didn't cover changing the oil filter!:mad:

Hitting things hard with a big hammer makes me nervous. Is it not possible to use a press to get the damn thing apart? Also, I can't see in the Haynes manual where it deals with removal/rebuilding of this joint. Mine is the "90, 110 & Defender 1983 to 2007 (up to 56 registration) Diesel" - long...

I'm still not sure why this joint has acquired so much negative mystique. Surely it cannot resist the awesome power of a solidly cast universal ball joint puller?

Can't get away with that. Looks like it's been split quite a while so there'll be grit and crud in there. :-(

Thanks, guys. Already sounds like a PITA. Is this the joint also called a 'drag link' in some circles?

Hi all, This ball joint's boot has split and so I'd like to replace it. Trouble is, I don't know exactly what it's called so can't order a new part until you lot disabuse me of my ignorance! So, pretty please.. What is it? (images attached) cheers.

Thanks. It does look a lot better now I've Jenolited it, but those struts are definitely past their prime! I wouldn't pay silly money for what are essentially just tubes. There are plenty of steel stockholders around where you can buy mild steel tubing cheap and fab it yourself to fit. 5 mins...

Here are some pictures.....

Yes, my mistake, I should have posted some pics; will do later....

After hooking out several kilos of what appears to be cow dung from the mud trap areas either side of the rear of the rear wheels, I have discovered some corrosion which is worse than I'd feared. Some quite heavy flaking and pitting, but nothing actually rot right through. Most of the damage is...

One other thing: I have checked in both the Haynes manual and the Deffie owner's handbook and nothing is mentioned about using a flushing agent before refilling with fresh oil. Is this a good idea or not? Perhaps it's a no-no for diesel engines, I don't know. Also, I hate throwing anything out...

Permanently in 4WD? Good Lord! Isn't that terribly inefficient? I mean, you're driving a lot of weighty metal that doesn't need to be driven - unless you're off road in rotten conditions, I mean.

Hi guys, Time to service my TD5.... Do you still have to change the transfer and gearbox oils every 6m even if you *never* use the 4WD? thanks, ll

Sorted. On the 2003 Defender TD5, if you whip the plug off the wiper motor so you're looking at the mating end of the plug, you'll see 5 connectors: two vertical ones on each side and one horizontal one on top (that's the ground). Snip the two vertical ones on the left and you take the park...