I know you can fit 36 inch tyres with not so popular offset/width without any rubbing issues but you lose the offset. and mean look.
 
S'ok chap only takin the ****.

Well I don't like them catching and think you sould do somthing about it WLM reckons man up. Swings and Roundabouts.

Not just a case of extending the radius arms tho its not as simple as that if your thinking of getting adjustable ones.
no its not quite as simple as that ,you have A frame etc but some fabrication is only way of adjusting axle position ,id probably agree with your choice of set up but you cant have everything without work i get a few now with similar but style is often bigger concern
 
Yeah thats true. I think 265s rather then 285s will improve it. The tyres are new though so wont be replacing them any time soon.
 
Oh and just for the record, I dont care about style or how it looks. If i did I would of brought a Range Rover! I just want it to be capable off road.
 
its old school and not very popular but trials is a very good source for susoension setups that plainly work. No point having a trials car looking good and not performing. I'd even say that many a "challenge truck" have poor suspension setups. Where as trialers old school have the suspenion setup for offroad slow capability but on road is not as nice as it could be which I think where James is coming from. Me performance offroad slow is what I wanted.

Your getting into the realms of weighing corners and getting x springs other brands available with a suitable spring rate and overall height which is costly and without any idea of what you really want to achieve will not be a quick or cheap soloution.
 
I really dont have the money to go down that route. Im the same, slow off road.
Think im just going to have to live with it untill I win the lottery. (next week hopefully)
 
front and rear axles are fixed to dirty great arms that mean as you lift front axle moves rearward and rear forward, as suspension compresses they move to a more central position, larger wheels n tyres exacerbate the issue

before.jpg


wont cause that many issues rubbing the plastic arches but if worried fit arches with more clearance

rear_finished.jpg


front_finished.jpg


however as you can see rock sliders may then need a bit of work to shorten to suit

side_view.jpg


Cheers Steve
 
I know you can fit 36 inch tyres with not so popular offset/width without any rubbing issues but you lose the offset. and mean look.

hmm 33's with a 2" lift rubbed on mine, id be interested to see what lift 36's need to have 'no' rubbing issues??

Cheers Steve
 




Bad example but some pics,

Front does not rub anywhere full articulation with std bump stops. I used to run bog standard LWB rims. Wolf Rims Do rub slightly but require maybe 10-15mm trimming of the very bottom lip keeping the profile the same at the front. The wheels are inside the spat and therefore clear. The rear is close again only 15mm of trimming but with LWB rims fine. The issue is mainly the rear on compressin on full articulation the tyres rub the strengthening rib on the bottom of the tub.

The tyres on the 90 above are tall and skinny not wide ones as most tyres are these days. The tyres on there are pushing 37 inch measured dia not written on the side.

When I ran 36 inch tyres no issues at all with 130 rims rear and 2b rims on the front.

For the keen eyes you will see the rear has been worn away more than I stated. This was due to a errrm driver error or a bit too much enthusiasm at a comp Tree 1, LR 0 half ripped off my spat and it dislodged and got in the way for the 2 days of competing and marshalling. I've not taken any material other than 15 mm off the edge inside edge.

See the tyres are inside the apat:



There are lots of choice available with regards wheels. Offsets and overall width there are loads of different combinations. I have got the best I can without spending a fortune. I am fortunate that I have lots of bits kicking about to try but rubbing wheels to me seems a cop out when there is no need for it to happen.





Testing max compression. I needed another tyre to get it wedged up in the arch and make sure the propshaft didn't bind, the brake pipes were not being stretched ( I knew they were ok from previous jacking tests) and making sure nothing rubs on full and half lock with the lock stops correclty adjusted.
 
what are them tyres jai landrover? and what size?

and where would one buy such tyres?


looking very nice btw :)
 
I'll be honest theyre not the best for serious offroad ok as a kinda MTR rubbish on the road especially when wet. they are Mitchelin XL 900x16 ex mod places sell them however getting rare again now local place said they were out last week and they lost the mod contract so whoever won it should have them. Don't think you can bolt these on to your motor and set off your gearing will be terrible you need to sort it they are measured 36.5 - 37 inch MEASURED most tyres on the market state 37 but measure 35 inch. be careful. I like them for everyday road greenlaning and marshalling comps. for Comp use I run these:



These came on silly wide rims but again do not rub at all and get full lock to lock minus lock stops i.e removed completly these measure 34 inch @ 12psi.
 
Pic taken with limited suspension travel due to running a different pair of rear shocks. Now back to how it should be with far more droop at the rear.
 
Mitchelin do 900x16

Can be brought from Holland

Aircraft tyres dot com or sum thing like that 325 euro each they have plenty of stock last I heard
 
The Offroad tyres well they are old C303 tyres verdestins surgrind studded NLA. The nearest to it is the silver stone. But the silver stones are not quite as open tread block and the centre section is a complete rib opposed to being slit
 
look a good tyre and they should take alot more hammer than the remould copys currently on the market
 
Whats the best way to to a fairly safe axle articulation test at home ? Should I just jack the axle right at the end, next to the brake disc ?
 
just drive it up something, i used a concrete block. parked cars are good too but carnt find the pic


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I have a 2" lift on mine and yes the wheel do appear set forward compared to normal this is because the wheels and suspension move in a arc perfectly normal as landy suspension uses a axle and trailing arms etc.

if you lift the body with a high lift jack you should see the wheel go down but closer to the front

and if you load the landy forcing the wheel into the body you should see it moved closer to middle / origonal position.

the rubbing as other have mentioned is down to tyre size
 

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