nickp3003 said:
Right I've tightened them up holding the stub up with my knee there's no movement! But it's leaving a film of grease on the ball, could this be excess on the outside of the seal? There not a lot of grease but it is a thin film?
Click to expand...

Forgot to mention that the film of grease is left when I turn the steering wheel from left to right
 
nickp3003 said:
Forgot to mention that the film of grease is left when I turn the steering wheel from left to right
Click to expand...

Are the balls pitted and rusty? They can wear the seal and make it leak. To be honest if you want peace of mind buy a couple of swivel repair kits they are about 15 quid each and redo each side. That way you know everything is safe and sound.
 
700Quid said:
Are the balls pitted and rusty? They can wear the seal and make it leak. To be honest if you want peace of mind buy a couple of swivel repair kits they are about 15 quid each and redo each side. That way you know everything is safe and sound.
Click to expand...

Yeah I will do, haven't got time to do it this week, it's not leaking by much and the balls were fine smooth and shiny, it's only after undoing the bolts on top I got problems.

I should think it would be ok to do 200miles keeping a close eye on it like this?
 
nickp3003 said:
Yeah I will do, haven't got time to do it this week, it's not leaking by much and the balls were fine smooth and shiny, it's only after undoing the bolts on top I got problems.

I should think it would be ok to do 200miles keeping a close eye on it like this?
Click to expand...

Providing you only lost a little bit of grease and the bolts are re torqued to 65nm it should be fine.
If you lost all the grease and you are going to repair it next week, re torque and top up with ep 90. You will have to drain it by undoing the seal at the back when you come to repair it.
 
700Quid said:
Providing you only lost a little bit of grease and the bolts are re torqued to 65nm it should be fine.
If you lost all the grease and you are going to repair it next week, re torque and top up with ep 90. You will have to drain it by undoing the seal at the back when you come to repair it.
Click to expand...

Yeah it's tight and not leaking too bad, I'll check again tomorrow, just took it for the first test drive since overhauling brake callipers, new bearings new discs and pads..

Only problem now is the handbrake warning light is up constantly, sometimes goes out and flikers (with handbrake off) will have a look next week too :)

Thank you all for your great advice and help, I really appreciate it guys, :tea:
 
Sounds more like the fluid level is bringing the light on, recheck it before you go anywhere and make sure you don't have any leaks.
 
Groomers said:
Sounds more like the fluid level is bringing the light on, recheck it before you go anywhere and make sure you don't have any leaks.
Click to expand...

The fluid has nothing to do with the handbrake, it is cable operated, it will just be a dodgy connecting. Hit it with something as few times.
 
Yeah I think it's just coincidence that the lights come on after doing the brakes, and knowing the handbrake has nothing to do with the hydraulic system I think it's the switch has moved or something, is the switch under the handbrake? Or on the drum? :)

Thanks everyone :)
 
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