huffhuff

huffhuff

Well-Known Member
Hi all

Is there a way of telling if my waste gate rod has been shortened (giving higher PSI) without a boost gauge?!?

Is there a set number of threads that should be visible or a distance between two points I can measure to see if it's 'standard'?

2001 TD5

Cheers in advance
 
Hi mate, not sure if it's an exact science, but mine has 10 full threads exposed, but has been wound in a couple of turns to increase boost, which went along with a remap.
 
I had this with my TD5, it kept going into low power mode and after a fair bit of investigation l found that the dealer had adjusted it.
As standard there should be 12 threads showing on the wastegate actuator.
 
Ahhh, that will explain it then. Mine has just 9 threads showing. I'll wait for it to cool down and get another thread showing (i've already had it remapped). I'll measure it with the verniers too, just for reference.

The exhaust manifold is very hot indeedy (I have no finger print left on my index finger). I know it's supposed to get hot, but this seems overly hot. Plus the engine block and pipes from the rad are almost too hot to touch. Normal?
 
As standard there should be 12 threads showing, if you try to adjust it without remapping the ECU will default to a low power mode the first time you use full power (resets if you turn off the engine)

With a remap 10 threads may be OK as the boost limit settings will have been raised on the ECU.
 
lightning said:
As standard there should be 12 threads showing, if you try to adjust it without remapping the ECU will default to a low power mode the first time you use full power (resets if you turn off the engine)

With a remap 10 threads may be OK as the boost limit settings will have been raised on the ECU.
Click to expand...

Yep, that is what I was thinking. As I have the dynachip remap, I will set it at a modified 10 threads showing. Does make you wonder why it's at 9? It will have been like that before the remap!

Thanks all,
 
Maybe somebody tried to tweak it on the cheap.
It used to be possible to add about 30bhp to a turbocharged engine without risk of damage just by adjusting the wastegate actuator.
As on my Renault 5GT Turbo. Renault dealers offered the "upgrade" for £50.
Not any more though, as the electronics will intervene.
 
If it makes any odds you should be able to run about 18psi before limp mode kicks in. Standard for the TD5 afaik is 12 - 14 psi, like others have said not an exact science.

The turbo is capable of happily putting out 22psi (before it becomes detrimental/pointless) if you have the boost limit raised or have a boost box. I set mine to 16psi (boost gauge measured from the inlet) after the Dynachip remap. Just shortened the rod a couple turns so should be around 18psi now as I fitted a larger intercooler :D. Landys currently in bits but once its back together ill take it out for a spin see what my gauge tells me and report back.

The exhaust manifold will experience temps of around 650c - 720c (after a map) driving fast/towing/hard up hill which is within the the designed perimeters. Above 750c the manifold can take it, but prolonged exposure at these temps may well lead to the manifold warping. If you are worried fit an EGT gauge, Madman do a great one which I shall buy later in the year.

Also make sure that you hold the actuator rod still with some mole grips to avoid spinning it too much and tearing the diaphragm inside the housing!

Making it shorter results in more boost.
 
Just a note, the ECU doesn't go into any kind of limp mode if it senses overboost, it just cuts fuelling until the overboost situation resolves, which is usually really fast - it can make the car stutter quite rapidly...
 
Somebody had shortened the rod by two turns on ours.
If you floored it, it defaulted into a lower power mode and the EML lit up on the dash.
There was no stuttering or sudden drop in output.

Is it possible to increase the power a bit by shortening the rod by one thread without doing anything else?
 
Yes you can increase the power by tweaking the rod.

That would make more sense than limp mode. When the boost was too high a while ago I floored it and the amber engine light came on and I lost all power rapidly. Turned the boost down and I was fine!
 
I will try that, l think one thread shorter will be the maximum without further modification.
I will report back when l have done it.
 
lightning said:
If you floored it, it defaulted into a lower power mode and the EML lit up on the dash.
There was no stuttering or sudden drop in output.
Click to expand...

I wonder if there's a difference between the base map on defender and disco 2 that affects this, mine deffo stuttered.
 
I now have the parts to make x10 'boost boxes'

Well, I say that, i've not actually tried one but they work perfectly in theory ;)
 
Could be, Discos do have a boost controller where as Fenders do not.

Oooo boost boxes! I'm still hit and miss with fitting one as I would like to keep power below 200bhp to keep reliability higher. Then again I could always fit a manual boost controller lol
 
Can somebody tell me if it's acceptable to increase the boost a bit by shortening the actuator rod one thread, without carrying out any other modifications?
And will this provide a noticeable increase in power?
 
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