hi all,

my wife has a freelander,
T reg 1.8 4 door.

she had the usual 3 lights come on, read these threds.

i have changed the brake light switch, checked the wires under the gear stick, all ok and replaced.

went to check the wheel sensors, but lookes all crudded up and didn't want to mess, with out recomendations first.....

any suggerstions on checking these sensors?
how to get the out?
what to clean with etc?
all suggestions welcome.

thanks

clean all the crud orft yoke sensors wiff a stiff plastic brush . . . .then test agin

hi ming,
the crud is on the outside, did try a little to clean off but after reading on here be gentle with them did nothing else.
how do they come out? just pull? twist?
what type of things can i do without breaking/damaging them.?

WELL THE TRUTH IS. . . .you've got three lights up, so its not just your braking system [abs] the only true way of testing is with diagnostics. . .they are just metal detectors [proxistors [hall effect] ] npn type some are two wire others three ,it sends a pulse signal to abs phooter that relates to speedo signal if after applying brakes it misses a pulse [wheel locked] then it operates a high speed hydraulic solenoid to release the brakes. . . . .cough, but i do not think this is your problem. . .

thanks, for that.

i was looking for the silly and obvious faluts and problems others have had before having to book the car in and have it checked.

will these lights stop the car working or cause futher faults/damage?

all suggestions etc welcome........

thanks

Hi,
I had the same troubles, finally found out that the G-Sensor was defect. Costs ca. € 70.-!
May be it is the same problem by your car?
kind regards

Had the same problem with mine. Cause was front right wheel sensor must have loosened when i was changing the IRD. If it's a sensor you will have two lights on startup then when you pull away the third light wil come on. Also your traction control will work when you first pull away but the TC light will come on at about 5 -8 mph. This is because the sensors are passive and wont register the fault untill the wheel is spinning fast enough to send a signal. If it is the sensor they are a push fit and are fairly robust but just don't hit it with a hammer. If you can locate the conectors and do a resitance test it should come out at about 1 - 1.5 MOhms. If it is lower the sensor may be tits up. The front sensor connections are under the bonnet left and right hand sides, Passenger side behind the battery, and are white two pin connectors. Not sure about the rear.

front sensors are as you say under bonnet one behind batter, one near abs pump - small cylindrical connector which pulls apart.

rear sensors - remove wheels. follow wiring up along flexi brake pipe - connector is located just behind the splash sheilding.

again - each sensor has a resistance as stated. no resistance = new sensor.

the three lights will go out by themselves when you have replaced a faulty sensor but they are not easy to get out.