Hey all! again!

I know I have quite a few posts, I just want to keep all issues separate for tracking, I will be sure to update all posts when and if they are solved.

I want to start with I know how to bleed brakes and I have done on this car multiple times (replacing brake lines) However I fitted the MuddyMods Extended Brake hoses, however when I try to bleed the brakes, starting from rear left, then rear right, then front left then front right, there is NO air at all, but still no pedal??? I have used over a litre of brake fluid trying to get the air out, all the fluid is coming out looking brand new not a single bit looks old, no air bubbles nothing, but the pedal feels very spongy and when turning the car on I have no pedal until the very very bottom where there are some brakes.

When fitting the new hoses I forgot to keep on-top of the master cylinder for brake fluid and it got empty (brake fluid dripping out when the hoses were removed I assume somewhere there is air but how do I find out where? and if it's in the servo can I get rid of it?

I should note that I use a 2 person method to bleeding the brakes, pump 3-5 times and hold very hard > loosen the bleed nipple > tighten the bleed nipple > let go of the brake > repeat.

I don't think air is getting in through the cylinders as I have bled these cylinders before, without issue, I cannot see any leaks from the the new hoses or old ones, I can hear and see the servo working when actuating the brake pedal but the fluid does not rise or sink, not that I can see anyway...

Just looking for some help! If I need to pressure bleed it, fine, however if I am doing something wrong, someone will know

FYI: NON-ABS, NON-HDC (Standard Trim 2000 X-Reg, 1.8K Series)

Thank you!

Not experienced it myself, but I think in these instances it is usually the master that has gone and needs replacing. Summat might of happened when it ran out of fluid.

With no ABS, its a very simple setup and nothing really between master and slave/caliper that can go wrong or trap air I don't think.

On my '99 when I replaced the ABS modulator the initial bleed did nothing and I had to use a syringe to fill the new modulator through the ports before it would bleed. I then did a thorough bleed but the brakes were pants. I did another full bleed and they came good. forget how much fluid I put through the system, but it was al least a couple of bottles.

GrumpyGel said:

Not experienced it myself, but I think in these instances it is usually the master that has gone and needs replacing. Summat might of happened when it ran out of fluid.

With no ABS, its a very simple setup and nothing really between master and slave/caliper that can go wrong or trap air I don't think.

On my '99 when I replaced the ABS modulator the initial bleed did nothing and I had to use a syringe to fill the new modulator through the ports before it would bleed. I then did a thorough bleed but the brakes were pants. I did another full bleed and they came good. forget how much fluid I put through the system, but it was al least a couple of bottles.

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Thank you.

Have since removed the master from the car and "un-built" it Following removal it looks like the seal for the fill under the actual container was very cracked leaking and just falling to bits, some other seals were good and others were also cracking / cracked.

Ordered a new rebuild kit so that is on the way Also gave everything a nice clean while I was here (parts that are inside the cylinder (to be reused) are suspended in brake fluid to ensure they don't rust.

xDParis64 said:

Thank you.

Have since removed the master from the car and "un-built" it Following removal it looks like the seal for the fill under the actual container was very cracked leaking and just falling to bits, some other seals were good and others were also cracking / cracked.

Ordered a new rebuild kit so that is on the way Also gave everything a nice clean while I was here (parts that are inside the cylinder (to be reused) are suspended in brake fluid to ensure they don't rust.
View attachment 340745View attachment 340746View attachment 340747View attachment 340749

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Not brake related, but I love that tattoo.

xDParis64 said:

Hey all! again!

"I should note that I use a 2 person method to bleeding the brakes, pump 3-5 times and hold very hard > loosen the bleed nipple > tighten the bleed nipple > let go of the brake > repeat."

Click to expand...

Never had any success with that methond on any car. 2 person method for me is:

1) open bleed valve & assistant pushes pedal steadily to floor & hold.
2) close bleed valve & assistant releases pedal.
3) repeat 1 & 2 until no bubbles on fluid.

Remember to check master is topped up regularly.

Depending on the system, for one-person bleeding, you can either use vacuum on the caliper valves, or ezibleed on the master. Some ABS system prevents these from working, so it's back to 2 peeps.

RAVE specifies your method for the freelander.

pwood999 said:

Never had any success with that methond on any car. 2 person method for me is:

1) open bleed valve & assistant pushes pedal steadily to floor & hold.
2) close bleed valve & assistant releases pedal.
3) repeat 1 & 2 until no bubbles on fluid.

Remember to check master is topped up regularly.

Depending on the system, for one-person bleeding, you can either use vacuum on the caliper valves, or ezibleed on the master. Some ABS system prevents these from working, so it's back to 2 peeps.

RAVE specifies your method for the freelander.

Click to expand...

Thank you,

I plan once the master is rebuilt to fully bleed them again with a pressure bleeder on the master instead of the 2 people method. With no ABS there really shouldn't be any issues!

I should imagine it is advised/required I bench bleed the master once rebuilt?

Nodge68 said:

Not brake related, but I love that tattoo.

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Thanks had it done as soon as I turned 18,I've had my fair share of stares and questions, seems this car isn't the only thing that east away at my wallet.

Anyhow, we shall see, will be sure to update here