jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
If it's used with water pointless on steel as it will immediately rust.
you can get additives
If it's used with water pointless on steel as it will immediately rust.
want my honest opinion neither well maybe the cabnet but you restricted to size . The pot well again its only fine media you find it slow .What would work best so i can do it in my workshop.Not a vast difference in price and there unit is on the farm here, so might be able to do a deal.
SAND BLAST CABINET SANDBLASTING TANK SANDBLASTER POT CJAUTOS SB10 | eBay
BRAND NEW SAND BLASTER BENCH SAND BLASTING CABINET. | eBay
If anyone knows a link to MHM sand blast cabinet thread. All searchs in vain
you can get additives
Won't stop instance rust Steel x water x air = rust
they do in wet blast cabinets
Wet blasting James is for less aggressive blasting on alloys , brass copper ect James in conjunction with fine glass bead .
Or in circumstances where dust must be reduced .
Other than that not normally on steel its defeating the object .
works on steel well with correct additive in the water ,no rust
want my honest opinion neither well maybe the cabnet but you restricted to size . The pot well again its only fine media you find it slow .
If your going to do it with results then you need this !
Differnt size media better pressures and grit control , your never get in all those nooks and crannys with the above pot if you can't control the media your use for instance, a very week blast to get in corners otherwise your blasting grit on top of grit and getting nowhere.
This is a proper pot all others are mere toys.
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=111196687146
Thanks, maybe better just to take it somewhere to get done.
Why would steel need to be done wet when it can be done dry then answer me that .
easier better results with heated water on dirty engine or axle parts etc
Then you should be using plastic dry stripping that does not change , alter the profile on the metal. Glass is round beads that close and trap dirt in as it pounds the metal. To do it prioerly you would plastic dry strip.
Them mask sensitive areas grit metal to open up the paws in microscopic terms to get the dirt and impurity out allow a profile for painting same with alloy but then you would seal the alloy in microscopic term by pounding the open paws with glass bead with water give thar but more of a sheen
Nit how you suggest
yes like anyones going to spend 3 hours on a £10 part,they were done properly at the time better than any other reconditioner
Lamboginis Ferrari Aston Martin
Porsche and many other rare cars don't cost £10
If the parts small enough I could do it for less than)10
Sandblasting is based in time if I can do it quicker than your cabinet who would be charging more .
i doubt you could be quicker that whats in effect rinsing all parts without cleaning first ,especially when finish is more thans needed
James the only finish possible on steel is paint or it will rust its that simple , unless your doing internal parts then yes but otherwise you don't rinse steel .
Apart from cast iron you wet with water after blasting and reblast do this several time and you will get the deep salt content out ready for painting or blacking ect
Otherwise water and steel just don't mix
obviously both internal and external ,and obviously bare steel wll rust eventually but not due to wet blasting ,whats the point faffing about when one machine method works perfectly well